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2.5 Fox Internal Bypass pros/cons

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Old Oct 30, 2016 | 08:43 PM
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Default 2.5 Fox Internal Bypass pros/cons

Pretty much as the title says. Who has them and what are your thoughts?

I have the opportunity at getting the 2.5 inch Fox internal bypass shocks for a good price. I do more rock crawling but also hit the dunes just about everytime we are out there. My bilstein 5100s have been shot now for some time, any shock at this point in time would probably be an upgrade.
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 09:47 AM
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Adjustable or no?

They are a little stiff on the street but really nice on the dirt.

King's equivalent are a little less expensive and very nice as well.
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mhockey9090
Pretty much as the title says. Who has them and what are your thoughts? I have the opportunity at getting the 2.5 inch Fox internal bypass shocks for a good price. I do more rock crawling but also hit the dunes just about everytime we are out there. My bilstein 5100s have been shot now for some time, any shock at this point in time would probably be an upgrade.
I run them and really like them! I have them paired with Currie springs...perfect combo. I primarily rock crawl...but there also nice at higher speeds, too.
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by tgoss
Adjustable or no?

They are a little stiff on the street but really nice on the dirt.

King's equivalent are a little less expensive and very nice as well.
Non. Yeah but I would have to buy new and full price for King's. These I'm getting for a very good price, less than half for all 4.

Originally Posted by GoBig
I run them and really like them! I have them paired with Currie springs...perfect combo. I primarily rock crawl...but there also nice at higher speeds, too.
Nice and good to know you do more rock crawling. Im the same but I play hard in the dunes as well.
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Old Nov 2, 2016 | 06:53 AM
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Not sure of your set up but those type of shocks are designed for those that are racing in a class that does not allow for hydraulic bump stops as that is really all they do is add an internal bump stop to the shock with no adjustability. You would be better off running a separate hydraulic bump stop that you can at least tune a bit for your ride. AS far as people saying they are stiff, valving is the key and can always be changed. The name "internal bypass" is a bit misleading and some people mistake they are getting a bypass shock which they are not. They do offer simplicity over your set up since it is an all in one with no adjustment.

Just because you can get them cheap does not mean they are a "deal" since you don't know if it is going to benefit your set up. You will likely not notice them while rock crawling bust should help with suspension bottoming out at speed if you have that issue.
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Old Nov 2, 2016 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
Not sure of your set up but those type of shocks are designed for those that are racing in a class that does not allow for hydraulic bump stops as that is really all they do is add an internal bump stop to the shock with no adjustability. You would be better off running a separate hydraulic bump stop that you can at least tune a bit for your ride. AS far as people saying they are stiff, valving is the key and can always be changed. The name "internal bypass" is a bit misleading and some people mistake they are getting a bypass shock which they are not. They do offer simplicity over your set up since it is an all in one with no adjustment.

Just because you can get them cheap does not mean they are a "deal" since you don't know if it is going to benefit your set up. You will likely not notice them while rock crawling bust should help with suspension bottoming out at speed if you have that issue.
Ive done some research into them as far as them helping more with the racing type or higher speeds vs rock crawling. I wouldn't of even considered getting them at all if I wasn't the one to drive 40+ mph in the dunes or wanting to hit the multiple bumps faster than 10 mph. We always hit the dunes before and after the trails, theres very few that don't require us to go through them around here. So I know I am bottoming out on the harder hits.

With that being said and from your post it seems as if I have two routes, but need to determine which one would be more beneficial for me. One of the things stopping me from going to hydraulic bump stops is the fact that my future plans of a double triangulated 4 link. I guess I just don't want to pay for the labor of having the work done twice, having them installed now, then cut off due to 4 link, and then installed again. The 2.5s would be a direct bolt in to my current setup with the addition of syngery's rear mount that gets my 2inches of up travel back that I lost when moving to the 2.5 compared to my current shock for the rear. The fronts I'm gonna lose .50 inch of up travel on each side.

Long story short. Guess I could just honestly get the same shock I have now and deal with the crappy ride in the dunes like I have been, but still get me where I need to go on and off the road and just suck it up till I do my 4 link setup.
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Old Nov 2, 2016 | 07:57 PM
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You should not have to relocate bump stops just because you go to a double triangulated 4 link but really is not a big deal to change location with them if you need to.
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Old Nov 2, 2016 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
You should not have to relocate bump stops just because you go to a double triangulated 4 link but really is not a big deal to change location with them if you need to.
From setups Ive seen, the fronts are going to be simple to relocate if needed. The rear is what I was more concerned about with most set ups now that cut into in the frame for the bump stop bracket. Then if I were to 4 link and push the axle back, I would no longer need that bracket and left with one that was cut into the frame.
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