2.5" inch lifts - difference in flex
I am just on the search for the 2.5" lift for my new 2013 JKUR. Basically checked everything, that is out there and decided, that since my JK is DD, I would prefer to go with as much stock parts (i.e. arms...) as possible. This narrowed the search down to TF BB, TF 2.5" Coil lift, AEV DS XT, Synergy 2" and Mopar 2". From what I can tell, approach to the lift in these kits is not so different. Basically just the choice of shocks and ofcourse the dual rate springs on the AEV lift.
From the manufacturers descriptions one however can not determine the amount of flex you are going to get out of the lift. From the TF BB its clear, you are going to get the least. Thats clear from the logic of the spacer system. Mopar kit is supplied with the retainer clip to eliminate front flex and thus the front driveshaft hitting the exhaust and binding. AEV says there is no driveshaft issue with their lift, which to my mind can be put down only to the fact, that they leave stock swaybar links, which in the end will limit the flex of the axle. TF does admit that their 2.5" Coil lift may pose issues for the front driveshaft in Pentastar applications and suggest to go first with the exhaust spacer and see how it all works after some time in use. Similary in the case of Synergy kit, but thats one of the pricier ones out there.
So the question: if you are looking for a good lift, which could be upgraded with good shocks (like FOX remote reservoir or ELKA), which could perhaps also be supplemented by the TF speedbumps to allow both high speed off roading and good flex, which one would you go for, if you had a budget around 1500-2000 USD...? For my part right now, I am almost decided on the TF coil kit with the FOX shock, but a bit in doubt of the possible higher quality of the AEV dual rate springs...
From the manufacturers descriptions one however can not determine the amount of flex you are going to get out of the lift. From the TF BB its clear, you are going to get the least. Thats clear from the logic of the spacer system. Mopar kit is supplied with the retainer clip to eliminate front flex and thus the front driveshaft hitting the exhaust and binding. AEV says there is no driveshaft issue with their lift, which to my mind can be put down only to the fact, that they leave stock swaybar links, which in the end will limit the flex of the axle. TF does admit that their 2.5" Coil lift may pose issues for the front driveshaft in Pentastar applications and suggest to go first with the exhaust spacer and see how it all works after some time in use. Similary in the case of Synergy kit, but thats one of the pricier ones out there.
So the question: if you are looking for a good lift, which could be upgraded with good shocks (like FOX remote reservoir or ELKA), which could perhaps also be supplemented by the TF speedbumps to allow both high speed off roading and good flex, which one would you go for, if you had a budget around 1500-2000 USD...? For my part right now, I am almost decided on the TF coil kit with the FOX shock, but a bit in doubt of the possible higher quality of the AEV dual rate springs...
If you go with the Fox shocks, they are way stiffer than stock. I have the Fox shocks with a Teraflex 3" LCG lift. It is a lot stiffer than I thought, even though Teraflex did tell me that it would be stiff. If you want a more comfortable DD experience, and don't want to feel the bumps on the highway, you should go with another shock. I haven't ridden on Elka's, but am told that it is much more cushy.
with your budget. keep saving. do yourself a favor and buy 4-6" shocks with whatever 2.5" kit you decide to buy. i'd get the most complete kit for the money and buy super long shocks to give you future options.
But, if shocks that are 4" to 6" longer than stock are used with 2.5" springs there will be two problems: First, the shock will probably bottom out before the axle hits the bump stops. This is hard on the shocks and it severely limits the suspension compression and actually reduces total flex because, second, limit straps will be needed to keep the springs from falling out. The flex or travel would be limited on the up side by the too-long shocks and limited on the down side by the straps so the result is actually less flex when the shocks are too long for the springs.
To get the most flex and/or suspension travel with any spring, use shocks that are designed for the lift height of the springs.
If you want to find out what your suspension will do with certain shocks and bump stops, do what I did while installing my lift: With the Jeep's frame on jack stands and the axle on a floor jack, install the new shocks but leave the springs out. Run the axle up and down with the floor jack and observe the travel. When the axle is at the top, check to see that the axle hits the bump stops before the shock runs out of compression travel. Next let the axle all the way down so the shocks are fully extended and measure the space where the spring will go. The new spring should be a bit longer than the space you measured. This simple method will tell you more about how your new suspension will behave than 10 pages of typing here on the forum.
Shocks with the right amount of travel is the answer to the original question. For example, stock shocks with extensions will let the frame get farther from the axle, but there won't be any more suspension travel and flex will be limited.
But, if shocks that are 4" to 6" longer than stock are used with 2.5" springs there will be two problems: First, the shock will probably bottom out before the axle hits the bump stops. This is hard on the shocks and it severely limits the suspension compression and actually reduces total flex because, second, limit straps will be needed to keep the springs from falling out. The flex or travel would be limited on the up side by the too-long shocks and limited on the down side by the straps so the result is actually less flex when the shocks are too long for the springs.
To get the most flex and/or suspension travel with any spring, use shocks that are designed for the lift height of the springs.
If you want to find out what your suspension will do with certain shocks and bump stops, do what I did while installing my lift: With the Jeep's frame on jack stands and the axle on a floor jack, install the new shocks but leave the springs out. Run the axle up and down with the floor jack and observe the travel. When the axle is at the top, check to see that the axle hits the bump stops before the shock runs out of compression travel. Next let the axle all the way down so the shocks are fully extended and measure the space where the spring will go. The new spring should be a bit longer than the space you measured. This simple method will tell you more about how your new suspension will behave than 10 pages of typing here on the forum.
But, if shocks that are 4" to 6" longer than stock are used with 2.5" springs there will be two problems: First, the shock will probably bottom out before the axle hits the bump stops. This is hard on the shocks and it severely limits the suspension compression and actually reduces total flex because, second, limit straps will be needed to keep the springs from falling out. The flex or travel would be limited on the up side by the too-long shocks and limited on the down side by the straps so the result is actually less flex when the shocks are too long for the springs.
To get the most flex and/or suspension travel with any spring, use shocks that are designed for the lift height of the springs.
If you want to find out what your suspension will do with certain shocks and bump stops, do what I did while installing my lift: With the Jeep's frame on jack stands and the axle on a floor jack, install the new shocks but leave the springs out. Run the axle up and down with the floor jack and observe the travel. When the axle is at the top, check to see that the axle hits the bump stops before the shock runs out of compression travel. Next let the axle all the way down so the shocks are fully extended and measure the space where the spring will go. The new spring should be a bit longer than the space you measured. This simple method will tell you more about how your new suspension will behave than 10 pages of typing here on the forum.
Trending Topics
I am just on the search for the 2.5" lift for my new 2013 JKUR. . .
. . .So the question: if you are looking for a good lift, which could be upgraded with good shocks (like FOX remote reservoir or ELKA), which could perhaps also be supplemented by the TF speedbumps to allow both high speed off roading and good flex, which one would you go for, if you had a budget around 1500-2000 USD...? For my part right now, I am almost decided on the TF coil kit with the FOX shock, but a bit in doubt of the possible higher quality of the AEV dual rate springs...
. . .So the question: if you are looking for a good lift, which could be upgraded with good shocks (like FOX remote reservoir or ELKA), which could perhaps also be supplemented by the TF speedbumps to allow both high speed off roading and good flex, which one would you go for, if you had a budget around 1500-2000 USD...? For my part right now, I am almost decided on the TF coil kit with the FOX shock, but a bit in doubt of the possible higher quality of the AEV dual rate springs...
I got what I was after for sure. On-road handling is much better. On the trail I can move much faster than stock with very few nasty surprises like bouncing my head off the roll bar for instance. With the discos off there is a lot of flex; more than I probably need for the stuff I do. The Bilsteins are far better than stock. They do get hot and fade with enough action, but the 5100 is a good shock for the price.
I kept the stock tire size and stock wheels, but I added 1.5" wheel spacers for better stability and to be sure there wouldn't be any rubbing with the discos and longer wheel travel.
Did you need to use limit straps? Did you compare total suspension travel with different shocks on the 2" springs? Not trying to be overly confrontational, just genuinely interested in how it actually worked for you.
I have way over done my research. I went aev for a lot of reasons including not changing my arms. Haters will the but T the end of the day its one of the best. Ive heard the molars are aev and teraflex. Which one it really is, is up for debate. Go aev if it's a DD. There are no "other" parts to make that lift work the way you need it to.


