2 door rear drive shaft questions.
#11
JK Enthusiast
This is the first I've heard about driveshaft issues. So is the common with 3 inch lifts? I put on just a 1.75 BB with 33 tires to try and forgo any issues such as this. Anyone think I need to look at doing more to prevent issues?
#12
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It depends on how much lift your 3" gives you. I got over 4" of lift out of my 3" lift.
#13
JK Enthusiast
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*off topic* quick question for you, did your BD 3" kit level out your Jeep or does it still have that "rake"? Reasion I asked is that I assumed that it would rake still so i ordered a set of .75" spacers for the front as well. If your saying you got 4" of lift, Im going to be sitting at about 5" up front and thgat may pose issues with my front D-shaft.
#15
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Rubicon Express has an "adapter" plate tha goes on the stock flange but I dont like that at all.
#16
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#17
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*off topic* quick question for you, did your BD 3" kit level out your Jeep or does it still have that "rake"? Reasion I asked is that I assumed that it would rake still so i ordered a set of .75" spacers for the front as well. If your saying you got 4" of lift, Im going to be sitting at about 5" up front and thgat may pose issues with my front D-shaft.
#18
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I dont have much time right now, but read this from Tom Woods site. It pretty much explains it:
There are many different ways to build a drive shaft for the new JK. One method uses an adapter flange which bolts directly to the original pinion flange. This is really not much more than a round flat plate with bolt holes drilled into it and a conventional drive shaft weld yoke welded into the center. This then bolts to the stock pinion flanges. We just don't think this is as “clean” of a modification as can be done. What if the weld yoke portion breaks? You could have a tough time finding a new one or repairing the old one. There is also a concern with maintaining the accuracy of the part after welding.
In addition to this, the center of the universal joint gets pretty far away from the pinion bearing. Excessive overhung load is not a good thing. The above picture shows the stock flange on the left, ours on the right.
With our version, we’ve elected to make a replacement flange for the differential pinions. These flanges are machined from solid billet steel. We do not believe this flange will never break, We designed it to accept standard "off the shelf" mating flanges. If these flanges ever break, you at least stand a chance of getting a replacement part from almost any drive line shop. This also nets a longer drive shaft with the center of the universal joint closer to the pinion bearing.
We can build the either drive shaft in 1310 or 1350 series.
Unless you plan on beating the vehicle really hard, we believe the 1310 series front drive shaft would serve most people well. Likewise for the rear drive shaft.
If this is something you want, we will need a length measurement.
There are many different ways to build a drive shaft for the new JK. One method uses an adapter flange which bolts directly to the original pinion flange. This is really not much more than a round flat plate with bolt holes drilled into it and a conventional drive shaft weld yoke welded into the center. This then bolts to the stock pinion flanges. We just don't think this is as “clean” of a modification as can be done. What if the weld yoke portion breaks? You could have a tough time finding a new one or repairing the old one. There is also a concern with maintaining the accuracy of the part after welding.
In addition to this, the center of the universal joint gets pretty far away from the pinion bearing. Excessive overhung load is not a good thing. The above picture shows the stock flange on the left, ours on the right.
With our version, we’ve elected to make a replacement flange for the differential pinions. These flanges are machined from solid billet steel. We do not believe this flange will never break, We designed it to accept standard "off the shelf" mating flanges. If these flanges ever break, you at least stand a chance of getting a replacement part from almost any drive line shop. This also nets a longer drive shaft with the center of the universal joint closer to the pinion bearing.
We can build the either drive shaft in 1310 or 1350 series.
Unless you plan on beating the vehicle really hard, we believe the 1310 series front drive shaft would serve most people well. Likewise for the rear drive shaft.
If this is something you want, we will need a length measurement.
#20
JK Freak
my 2 dr Sahara with a 4 inch Teraflex lift lasted 3k miles before it died. I had new shafts made by Six States Dist. They used available flanges and yokes.
My Nephew waited and his Drive shaft came apart on the highway near Moab in a snow storm. When we went back down to take the rear shaft off and drive home with just the front we got caught in a storm and got snowed in a small town overnight. It may not be worth waitng. I know it cost me $250.00 to go help him get back home.
My Nephew waited and his Drive shaft came apart on the highway near Moab in a snow storm. When we went back down to take the rear shaft off and drive home with just the front we got caught in a storm and got snowed in a small town overnight. It may not be worth waitng. I know it cost me $250.00 to go help him get back home.