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2drs on 40s

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Old Feb 1, 2013 | 03:08 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Atch
I'd recommend 1350's instead of 1310's
Why? .
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Old Feb 1, 2013 | 03:08 PM
  #12  
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Eh I learned after my first deployment lol true test is if they last a deployment and that was my term to tie the knot... she had a lot of potential too lol... I will post pics when im done but it could be a while im planning the build right now to make sure everthing is a perfect as I can get it, ordering it about a month before I get home then build it that over the next 4-5 days. Benefits of being military... teaches you how to work hard for long hours lol... and Im curious as to why 1350s instead of 1310s also

Last edited by RJtx; Feb 1, 2013 at 03:12 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2013 | 03:36 PM
  #13  
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1350s are stronger and are recommended for 37s and larger is what Ive read.
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Old Feb 1, 2013 | 03:38 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by HeavyD
1350s are stronger and are recommended for 37s and larger is what Ive read.
Yep.....exactly
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 05:46 AM
  #15  
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I dont know if your lift kit include adjustable control arms but you will definitly need them cause with a two doors you'll need to stretch the rear by 1 to 2 inch back to make room for the 40s.

Also plan a rear 1350 cv driveshaft with a 2 doors at this amount of lift.

You'll also want to know that with 66" width axle and 4.5" BS wheel, the 40s are going to rubs hard on full turns. Expect to put a lot washer to greatly reduce your turning radius. People with 40s generally have 68.5" width axle and 3.5" BS wheel and need to lose some turning radius to not rubs depending on tire.

Planning my 2012 2 doors for 40s also and wanted to share some of what i've found if it can remove some future trouble for you
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 07:24 AM
  #16  
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40's on a 2dr?!? Thats going to be bonkers. I would deff talk to a reputable shop about everything that needs to be done just so you dont build a BEAST and then something snaps on your first run. I would extend the rear a bit too. Why? Cuz it sounds cool! And you will prolly need the extra wheel base with such massive tires. I believe evo and synergy have kits to do that.
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 07:26 AM
  #17  
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Comp, cut, and stretch.
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 07:40 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by BigRedJK
Why? .
Two schools of thought on this. 1350's are stronger, but if something has to give, u-joints are cheap and easily fixed compared to everything else that can break.
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 08:33 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Atch
I'd recommend 1350's instead of 1310's
1310's may be a better option. Yes, 1350's are significantly stronger, but a cheap, easily accessible u-joint is the best weak link in the drive line. Id rather carry a bunch of $15 u-joints on the trail and not worry about snapping a shaft. Just some food for thought.
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 07:19 AM
  #20  
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I agree the 1310s are almost a Fail safe with the drive train. I've broken pinions and I've broken U-joints I would MUCH rather replace a U joint.
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