I'm sorry but that seems bogus. Obviously, your battery needs to be up to the specs that Warn sets out and should be used in accordance with the usage guidelines for the battery, but beyond that who's to say? Regardless your battery shouldn't explode because you drain it hard -- die yes. Now it's a different matter if the alternator is overcharging it.

 

Had a Red Top Optima in our 2000 Corvette - died after 14 months. Called Optima - they said "sorry, but you'll have to deal with the store where you bought it..." I did, but they would not replace it - said "it's warranted by Optima" Catch 22! Optima did not stand behind their product - will never buy another for any vehicle...

Hope you have better luck with the Optima than we did.

 

First of all, I only did what the shop told me to do considering they are a very reputable shop. 2nd, I wasn't running the powerplant winch this time.
3rd, I even asked them about the yellow top and they told me that the red top should not have exploded in the first place and that the powerplant wouldn't have anything to do with it.

The shop also told me that this is a total of 4 red tops exploding out here. So thats 2 other jeeps. There is obviously a bad batch of batteries. So YES! I am going to blame OPTIMA.

I don't get why you are bashing on me. All I am doing is trying to let all of you know of the signs and be carefull. This could have been really bad if I would've opened the hood when it exploded.

 

why would running a warn powerplant of a red top be any different than me running a winch AND and OBA compressor off it along with 1800watts of stereo ?

ok so I run 2 with a hellroaring isolator/combiner but only 1 battery is being use most of the time. I HIGHLY doubt his PowerPlant is doing dick to that battery. What the heck battery should he run?
What I get a kick out of is people recommending a blue top or other "deep cycle" battery for a winch. Seeing as a deep cycle battery is not designed for a rapid discharge

 

Doc, can you expand on the deep cycle battery not being designed for rapid discharge... I was not aware of that and wouldn't mind more info. I've run deep cycles in my RVs and boats for years and thought the main difference w/a deep cycle was that they were designed to be discharge fully and recharged over and over whereas a regular battery can't handle the full discharge as well. Of course many people mention deep cycle batteries (the one's you get at Sears or Autozone or PepBoys) and those are actually hybrids (they have thin and thick plates) where as true deep cycle bat's really only have thick plates (no thin ones).

Anyway, let me know about the rapid discharge thing... this may modify some of my future battery purchases.

 

Deep cycle batteries are designed for deep discharge (70-80%) over a longer period of time while a starting battery (red top) is designed for rapid discharge but only 25% or so. Deep cycle usually have thicker plates and less of them. They handle a lower amp draw over a LONG period of time , not a deep discharge at high amps.
You can get away with a deep cycle but you have to make sure the discharge rate and CCA are up to the job. this usually requires going to a bigger size (group) battery.Usualy its not worth it.

The yellow top is a good compromise as it has deep cycle properties but still likes to be rapid discharged. A red is primarily a starting battery and does not have the reserve capacity or the love of deep discharge that a deep cycle does but has no problems dumping lots of current. The way to work a red top is run 2 as this will double the reserve.

I use a Hellroaring isolator/combiner, it makes RV isolators look like a toy and is much safer than a big marine switch (bat1,bat2,both) as you can have a massive current discharge switching from a dead bat to both as the charge gets equalized. running them in parallel is the cheap way but now you essentially have just one big battery and if you leave your lights on BOTH go dead.
The hellroaring allows me to self jump start, isolate, turn off or combine both batteries.

You also have the other aspect of the charging system: the alternator. If you can upgrade DO SO. also rigging a way to jack up your engine speed is helpful to keep the charge up. on the JK drive by wire system this may prove to be amusing but should not be hard to rig off the gas pedle

oh and when wireing batteries and shit use nice BIG ass wire. Go to a welding place and get welding cable they use on arc welders. 2-0 is a nice start. it is WAYTHEFUCK cheaper than automotive stuff, higher amp, finer strand (more flexable and better current transfer) has a better jacket and comes in neat colors
You can also get the big lug ends needed there as well.

 

WOW... Good stuff.... So I take it you are running two batteries in your Jeep? Where did you put the other one? Was this for a Winch or some other high draw equipment?

 

no, I am running duel in my Isuzu Amigo (winch, OBA, 2 amps, ac converter, too many damm lights)

The JK is my "Mall Bitch" for now When it comes time I will most likely drop it where the airbox is or relocate the washer bottle somewhere (or get a new one) and move the other stuff there out of the way.

Hell, may even mount them both in the space my muffler will no longer be mount them on their side and make a nice beefy skid.

 

WOW usmcdoc14! Great info! I really like the idea of running 2 where the muffler will no longer be with a nice beefy skid. Thats some crafty shit right there!

 

better weight bias as well.
Just make sure the connections are well booted and/or smothered in dielectric grease

you can also run terminals or plugs front and rear for jump starting