35"s, no lift, but with flat flares?
If you go with a 1" body lift (as opposed to a suspension lift), your driveline angles and whatnot will be unchanged and the factory ride will be maintained. All a body lift does is raise the body up off the frame using 10 or 12 spacers. Raising the wheel wells up 1" theoretically gives enough room for a 2" taller tire since only half of the diameter sits above the axles. A 1" body lift and flat fenders should be able to clear 35s at full stuff without any problems. Plus it will keep the center of gravity low and will look awesome. 

I remember seeing someone on the forum running 35s with just a BL and they only had minor rubbing at full stuff. With a BL, flat fenders, and wheels with appropriate backspacing I would be willing to bet that you wouldn't have any rubbing at all. If you did happen to have some rubbing then it wouldn't be anything that a 1" coil spacer lift couldn't fix (cheap and won't really affect driveline angles, steering geometry, etc.).
With a 35x10.5 you might be able to use your stock rims without spacers. With a 35x12.5 you'll need to install Spidertrax spacers or get some wheels with 3.75" - 4.5" backspacing, depending on how far you want your tires to stick out past your fenders (the less backspacing, the more your tires will protrude).
I feel like I should state some sort of disclaimer. I'm no expert and I don't pretend to be... We'll never know for sure if this setup will work until someone pulls the trigger.
Someone take one for the team!
The kit most people use is the M.O.R.E., but I know Daystar also makes a 1" body lift. Eddie just did an installation write-up a few days ago for the M.O.R.E. kit, which can be found here: M.O.R.E. 1" Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited Body Lift Installation Write-Up
I remember seeing someone on the forum running 35s with just a BL and they only had minor rubbing at full stuff. With a BL, flat fenders, and wheels with appropriate backspacing I would be willing to bet that you wouldn't have any rubbing at all. If you did happen to have some rubbing then it wouldn't be anything that a 1" coil spacer lift couldn't fix (cheap and won't really affect driveline angles, steering geometry, etc.).
With a 35x10.5 you might be able to use your stock rims without spacers. With a 35x12.5 you'll need to install Spidertrax spacers or get some wheels with 3.75" - 4.5" backspacing, depending on how far you want your tires to stick out past your fenders (the less backspacing, the more your tires will protrude).
I feel like I should state some sort of disclaimer. I'm no expert and I don't pretend to be... We'll never know for sure if this setup will work until someone pulls the trigger.
Someone take one for the team!
I remember seeing someone on the forum running 35s with just a BL and they only had minor rubbing at full stuff. With a BL, flat fenders, and wheels with appropriate backspacing I would be willing to bet that you wouldn't have any rubbing at all. If you did happen to have some rubbing then it wouldn't be anything that a 1" coil spacer lift couldn't fix (cheap and won't really affect driveline angles, steering geometry, etc.).
With a 35x10.5 you might be able to use your stock rims without spacers. With a 35x12.5 you'll need to install Spidertrax spacers or get some wheels with 3.75" - 4.5" backspacing, depending on how far you want your tires to stick out past your fenders (the less backspacing, the more your tires will protrude).
I feel like I should state some sort of disclaimer. I'm no expert and I don't pretend to be... We'll never know for sure if this setup will work until someone pulls the trigger.
Someone take one for the team!
The flaires are really expensive...hell, they also make a much cheaper 2" BL that will let you clear 35's all by itself with room to spare.
The wheel spacers are only needed if the TIRE is about 285 mm section width or wider....1.25 - 1.5" less BS lets a 12,5" tire width clear (305 - 315 mm section widths...)
Or you just get new rims with that much less BS than stock, etc.
The wheel spacers are only needed if the TIRE is about 285 mm section width or wider....1.25 - 1.5" less BS lets a 12,5" tire width clear (305 - 315 mm section widths...)
Or you just get new rims with that much less BS than stock, etc.
Duke wheels the hell outta his rubi with a 3" suspension lift and 1" body lift and he rides on 37s with stock fenders. i think at full flex he gets very minor rub on the rear bumper (hey Duke, feel free to correct me if i'm wrong).
and when i say he wheels the hell outta his, i mean it. see if you can find some of his post. especially if they have pics of him at Katempcy
edit: found a pic of Duke from out last trip out at boulder creek in marble falls.
check out the 4th or 5th post. the white rubicon. thats him.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/pumpkin-covers-42590/
and when i say he wheels the hell outta his, i mean it. see if you can find some of his post. especially if they have pics of him at Katempcy
edit: found a pic of Duke from out last trip out at boulder creek in marble falls.
check out the 4th or 5th post. the white rubicon. thats him.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/pumpkin-covers-42590/
Last edited by jkx0778; Jun 5, 2008 at 12:48 PM.
I just purchased the same tires and am having them mounted tomorrow. So far, I have the same 2" BB with Spidertrax wheel spacers. I removed the front swaybar yesterday and it was way too boaty, downright scary! So, back on it went. I may simply adjust the steering stops a bit in the front. The only rubbing should be on the swaybar arms and a bit on the control arm, only at full turn. I'll be trimming the back ends of the stock rubicon sliders and a bit of that metal there that hangs down. I've already stubbied my front and rear bumpers, so those will clear. For wheels we are both using the stock X steel wheels.
I'm thinking to add a 1" MORE body lift for added clearance and that's it. And with the supposed ease of install and the sub $150 price tag, it's a no brainer.
If you want, I can report back with photos and show you how it goes.
My friend has a 2-Door Rubicon with 2" Superlift BB, Spidertrax wheel spacers, and 35x10.5x16 Swamper SSR tires. He needed to trim a bit of the metal on the front side of the rear wheel wells. He has also completely removed the front and rear swaybars (yes, the entire system including the motor). I've wheeled with him many times and he claims to have no rubbing at all.
I just purchased the same tires and am having them mounted tomorrow. So far, I have the same 2" BB with Spidertrax wheel spacers. I removed the front swaybar yesterday and it was way too boaty, downright scary! So, back on it went. I may simply adjust the steering stops a bit in the front. The only rubbing should be on the swaybar arms and a bit on the control arm, only at full turn. I'll be trimming the back ends of the stock rubicon sliders and a bit of that metal there that hangs down. I've already stubbied my front and rear bumpers, so those will clear. For wheels we are both using the stock X steel wheels.
I'm thinking to add a 1" MORE body lift for added clearance and that's it. And with the supposed ease of install and the sub $150 price tag, it's a no brainer.
If you want, I can report back with photos and show you how it goes.
I just purchased the same tires and am having them mounted tomorrow. So far, I have the same 2" BB with Spidertrax wheel spacers. I removed the front swaybar yesterday and it was way too boaty, downright scary! So, back on it went. I may simply adjust the steering stops a bit in the front. The only rubbing should be on the swaybar arms and a bit on the control arm, only at full turn. I'll be trimming the back ends of the stock rubicon sliders and a bit of that metal there that hangs down. I've already stubbied my front and rear bumpers, so those will clear. For wheels we are both using the stock X steel wheels.
I'm thinking to add a 1" MORE body lift for added clearance and that's it. And with the supposed ease of install and the sub $150 price tag, it's a no brainer.
If you want, I can report back with photos and show you how it goes.
....not a good idea.


