On monday I put 35's on my 2011 jku sahara mounted on AEV wheels and did a 2 inch lift. I have 3:73 gears and an Auto. I used a pro cal to change the
shift points and it seems to be pretty good. Eventually I'll re gear.

 

I would definitely gusset the front (d-30) axle. And at some point think about a re-gear. Good to go

 

...except the OP has a Rubi - with a D44 front axle. I'd say throw some C gussets and a Flashpaq at it, and you're good to go as-is.

 

Looks sweet

OP...with your Rubi's D44's, I wouldn't hesitate to go 35's. Now as far as that money pit situation is concerned, the additional reinforcement is cheap insurance as you mentioned, I'm also a big fan of the Superchips, and it's never too early to look into a rear bumper and tire carrier to support the additional weight of your heavier spare

 

I don't think you need to worry with the Rubicon, your axles are heavy duty compared to a regular jeep. Ran 35's for a while and now I am running 36" swampers irok's and have no issues with my 2.5" lift with a superchip. FYI mine is a 2 door and I don't know if that will make a difference.

 

One thing you will have to worry about is mileage. Mine went down from 18mpg to 15mpg when I changed from the 32 AT to the 35 MT. So, beware.

I'll leave the 35 set in the garage and use the 32 for DD. Then mount the 35 back when going offroad. The regear is on my horizon. ;-)

One question about the Cs. They look like forged steel. When we weld anything there the steel's crystal structure changes and weakens. So, where's the compromise?

 

Interesting question

 

The Rubicon's axle housing and C's are exactly the same as the X and Sahara D30. The only difference is the D44 housing is larger there fore it is not any stronger. If you want a true heavy duty axle, look at Dynatrac or Currie.

 

Unfortunately Superchips is not an option for the 2011 at this time... so the best you can do is regear and use a procal to update the shift points. I read that SC will have the 2011 version ready in early 2012... but they also said the samething last year...

 

as mentioned, depends on how hard you wheel it. I have 2010, 35's and still fine. but my wheeling is moderate. depending on yor driving gears may be ok for awhile. I drove mine stock for awhile but getting regeared for better towing and highway performance.

another item you may have to consider are adjustable control arms, adjustable front track bar and adjustable or relocation bracket for the rear track bar for alignement of the bigger tires.

Not sure about sway bar links but they may need to be extended as well.