I'm going back and forth with this decision I have a 2011 2 Dr sport 6 speed. I wouldn't consider myself a hardcore wheeler (no rocks) where I would wheel it would mainly be mud clay hills creeks rivers wooded trails and some deep water crossings hear and there. I don't really no if I would need 37s but if I did go that route I would order a pr44 to replace the d30. If I went 35s I would c gussets sleeve chromoly shaft and also throw an Aussie locker in the d30. I'm planning on doing shafts and a locker in the rear 44 as well either way I go. I could have a pretty well built rig on 35s for the same price as buying the pr44. I also like to take my lady friend out in the jeep on weekends she loves it and also drives it alot. If I go 35s I'm going to run a 15in wheel I like the beefy sidewall look. I know a lot of guys are going to say get the pr44 and be done but $5000 is a lot of money for a axcel. This is my first jeep so tell me what you would do and why you would do it I'm open to all suggestions. Also what would be the biggest benifit from running a 37 on a 2dr over a 35? I know ground clearance is a given. Thanks in advance.

 

I stuck with 35's since 99% of my use will be on road.
3.5" lift and 35's will get you through the majority of the places you would want to take a 2011 model vehicle!
I don't know what gears you are running, but with my 4.10's and the 6 speed. 35's are okay...37's would mean spending money on gears for me.

 

since you are new to the jeep thing, I would go with 35's and learn what you can do especially on a 2dr. Thats alot of $$ to be throwing around with the PR and 37s, and your going to have spend alot more to dial everything in.

 

I have 3.73 gears but if I went 35s I would do 4.88s. How are you liking the rock krawler 3.5? Did you do the install yourself? Doesn't there rear trac bar bracket require welding?

 

Yes that was another question of mine is the extra 2in worth the cost.

 

Most people who just go with 35's either end up with 37's or regret not going with 37's. I would keep your dana 30, beef it as you described and swap the ring and pinions at the same time. I would skip the locker in the front. It seems that alot of people who have toasted their Dana 30 had lockers, not all but alot. I agree that a PR44 would be awesome but it is alot of coin to throw at a hobby you don't do often. If it gets more frequent, then do it either after you toast your 30 or swap it and sell your built 30 to get some money back.
It seems to me that like alot of us your main function is a daily driver, beef the axle, include heavy duty ball joints with that while you are there, put on 37's and wheel it.

 

Like it! Haven't had it off road yet.
I installed it myself. I took it to a shop and had the front & rear track bar axle brackets welded afterwards (they bolt up too, so it's safe to do it that way).

I'd be careful trying to run 15" wheels with the RK tie rod set-up, the heavier tie rods ends are pretty close to the inner bead area of my 16" wheels

 

I have 35s, and they do everything I need them to do plus its good as my DD. 37s just require more, they look awesome but is it worth the extra $$ and greater chance on breakage? not to me, I am on my 2nd set of 35s. good luck.

 

Did you ever get those MTRs balanced.

 

It's not my dd but if my car craps out on me it will be. When you say heavy duty ball joints are you refering to dynatrac prosteers? Is funny you say that because the guy that's going to be doing my gear work said that would be the first thing to go. That and tie rod ends. And wouldnt it suck running a open front all the time when I do go off road?