Neither are practical if it's mostly on pavement. Just boils down to what you want to spend. Is it and auto or 6spd? 4.10 with a manual would be liveable with 35s. If it's an auto your going to regear either way.

 

35s! I do about 2 - 3 hundred miles a day in mine and still wish i went 37s...

 

What lift are you running? Trans? Gears? Rims? Tires?

Jeep looks good

 

im also thinking about 35s or 37s i know i have to regear ether way so i mite just go 37s just cause i will only cost more im also putting lockers in cause im going to have it all apart anyways so i figured why not do that while im in there regearing it

 

I had 34s and I went to 37s and I'll never go back . WOW!! I had it sleeved and gusset with 2" lift and 5.13 gears.
Really like the way it runs and looks good to .

 

pics please?

 

Unless you wheel a lot and at difficult trails or you are rich and don't care about money, 37's are way more expensive in the long run. Your mpg will suffer more than if you do 35's so if you are driving tons of miles, factor that in. Running 37's will also put a higher probability of things breaking quicker. Ball joints will wear down faster, brakes, engine stress, various u-joints...all these things get worse the bigger the tires get. Also, blow a tire, replacement costs are much higher for 37's than 35's. Especially since you can't find any 37's to fit a 15" rim and only a few for a 16" rim means that you are stuck with 17" wheels where the rubber automatically costs more anyaway.

If you are OK with this and have no issues changing out any of these things sooner than you would on stock 32's or even 35's then go for it.

I wheel about once a month on moderate to difficult trails (nothing extreme yet) and I have had no issues with my 35's and that's going on 3 years now. I don't care as much as how it "looks" driving down the street so having the biggest Jeep on the road is not important to me. I need to balance drivability, cost and offroad ability and the 35's are really a sweet spot for most people. If you are going hardcore off-road....well.....this shouldn't be your daily driver then!

 

Terraflex 8 arms 4" with 1/2" spacers, fox 2.0, 5:13 gears, Detroit rear, ARB front, chromoly ten factory shafts rear, coast drive shafts, d44 front, HD ball joints , nitro sleeves, rcv 35 spline axles, c-gussetts, lower control arm gussetts, spidertrax spacers, pro comp rims, bfg km2 (37/12.50/17).

Looking to do a rubicrawl and my hydro steering install by spring...

That's just the list to get em on and have em function where we wheel. If your not in Johnson valley and a few other areas like that then you dont need to beef up the drive train and axles...my steering, and a bunch of other stuffs been done and getting done for those trails they like to attack the rig...lol

I had a Sahara so I swapped to a d44 front which added cost but we wheel hard enough I questioned the d30 every time we went out.

Like mpkelly20 stated above it can get expensive.


If its a daily driver then 2.5" lift, fender trim, gears, spidertrax spacers (based on back spacing) and trim your pinchwelds, adjust steering stops.

I get 13.5-14 MPG city/frwy and it was there was almost no loss going to 37s

 

lol you dont wheel hard enough to break a 30

we're doing stoddard valley sunday.

 

Lol no I just didn't give it a chance to break....that said the d30 got the crap kicked out of it and took several beatings. ALOT stronger than people give it credit.

We are headed to Johnson valley Saturday we are running clawhammer, chocolate thunder and then if ahead of schedule and not broke then off to one of the other trails...so yeah Sunday will be my sit back and check for issues day.