35's boggin jeep down
the difference calculates to about a +500rpm difference at .83- when approaching the upper RPM's makes a difference:
4.88's w/35's .69 @ 70mph approx 2400 rpm
4.88's w/35's .83 @70mph approx 2900 rpm - lock out OD you're close to 3500rpm. with the added power of the new v6 why run such high rpm, not necessary
4.88's w/35's .69 @ 70mph approx 2400 rpm
4.88's w/35's .83 @70mph approx 2900 rpm - lock out OD you're close to 3500rpm. with the added power of the new v6 why run such high rpm, not necessary
They're geared that way since the majority of the torque is I. The upper rpm ranges on the 3.6, even more so than the 3.8's. I'm running 35's with 4.88's on my 6-Speed 3.8 and it made a huge difference from the 3.21's! As has been mentioned You need to do the Math or find a chart (where someone else has done the math) before
choosing your ratio though. Get it wrong and it'll be costly to redo.
RT
I have a pretty new 2012 unlimited rubi auto. It has the 4.1 gears. With 34.4 inch Falken Wildpeaks I have zero performance problems. It drives great at both highway (70-75) and in town. Acceleration from stop in town is fine. If you plan to stop at 35 in tires I would say the 4.1 gears will be fine. Also keep in mind that the computer is in breaking mode for the first 300 miles. Make your judgement after that. I would definitely not want to "daily driver" anything less that 4.1 with 35s in a 2012 unlimited.
Originally Posted by jeeeep
the difference calculates to about a +500rpm difference at .83- when approaching the upper RPM's makes a difference:
4.88's w/35's .69 @ 70mph approx 2400 rpm
4.88's w/35's .83 @70mph approx 2900 rpm - lock out OD you're close to 3500rpm. with the added power of the new v6 why run such high rpm, not necessary
4.88's w/35's .69 @ 70mph approx 2400 rpm
4.88's w/35's .83 @70mph approx 2900 rpm - lock out OD you're close to 3500rpm. with the added power of the new v6 why run such high rpm, not necessary
A completely broken-in 3.6L with auto, 35's, and 4.10's runs like a spotted ape. Do the searches.
Why anyone would recommend taller gears is completely unfounded. But the one common thing from all is that asthmatic 3.8L, not the 3.6L - apples and oranges.
Plus, you have to tell the computer, somehow, that the tire size has changed... and there are several ways to do that. I used AEV Procal, but there are other players too.
Why anyone would recommend taller gears is completely unfounded. But the one common thing from all is that asthmatic 3.8L, not the 3.6L - apples and oranges.
Plus, you have to tell the computer, somehow, that the tire size has changed... and there are several ways to do that. I used AEV Procal, but there are other players too.
Last edited by f2fast4u; Nov 10, 2011 at 04:33 PM.
A completely broken-in 3.6L with auto, 35's, and 4.10's runs like a spotted ape. Do the searches.
Why anyone would recommend taller gears is completely unfounded. But the one common thing from all is that asthmatic 3.8L, not the 3.6L - apples and oranges.
Plus, you have to tell the computer, somehow, that the tire size has changed... and there are several ways to do that. I used AEV Procal, but there are other players too.
Why anyone would recommend taller gears is completely unfounded. But the one common thing from all is that asthmatic 3.8L, not the 3.6L - apples and oranges.
Plus, you have to tell the computer, somehow, that the tire size has changed... and there are several ways to do that. I used AEV Procal, but there are other players too.
You'll be fine with any ratio of 4.10 to 4.88. Depending on what type of driving you do, it will either let the Jeep accelerate easier with the 4.88's, but lose a little MPG and rev higher at higher speeds. The 4.10's will not accelerate as easily as the 4.88's, but if you do a lot of highway driving, they would be better for not revving as high when you're going 75 mph.
Last edited by Merlin4979; Nov 11, 2011 at 05:56 AM.



