I hit the trails about 1 or 2 times a month, but im smart with the skinny pedal. My X has the rear ele. locker and with just that, it has gotten me up everything so far. i just got back from moab and did Kane Creek, Fins and Things, and Hells Revenge. All i have is 33 KM2 with 3.73 gearing, and a SJ 2" BB. i have just been debating if i want to beef up my 30 or get a 44. i may in the future go to 37's, so IDK if a built 30 with easy skinny peday would hold up.

 

Point well taken. The JK received a beefier, high pinion/reverse cut gear Dana 30, a better axle than the TJ's Dana 30, however, you're still dealing with 27 spline shafts and tubes about the size of a man's wrist.

I've said it a hundred times and I know I'll always be in the minority, but I think there is too much emphasis (and too little thought) put on running big tires.

The safe bet for a D30, even the newest variant, is 33" rubber. I suppose a guy who wants to safely run 35s can EVO gusset a Dana 30 and add chromo shafts to get closer to Dana 44 strength, but I'm eventually going to get Dynatrac axles front and back. So for the time being it's 33" rubber, a carefully chosen line, and judicious use of the gas pedal.

FWIW

Edit: informative page on reverse-cut gears, etc. below.

h++p://katy.tx4wd.org/tech/general_axle_info.htm

 

Here is an example of a properly modified D30; mind you It cost less than a new D60. On a side note I run 37 inch tires on beadlock wheels.




Bombproof D30:

1.Control arm skids(front and rear): from Off Rod Evo.
2.Front track bar bracket: From Currie, Teraflex, or JKS.
3.44 mag Axle tube sleeves: from Off Rod Evo.
4.C2 gussets: from Off Rod Evo.
5.RockCrawler axle truss: Fom RockCrawler.
6.New HD Diff. Covers: Mine are Rockcrushers (very strong).
7.Chrome-molly axle shafts: Many brands to choose from.
8.New Gears: You can't go wrong with Yucon gears.

 

where are the pics???


I went 5.13s cause I planned to go 37s. I bought 35s this time and figured that while I wore them out it would give me the time I need to beef up for the 37s. I have to admit that I love the power difference so much with the 5.13 35 combo, I am not sure I want 37s anymore. I may never go 37s now. I am still beefing up my D30 tho. I can make it go anywhere I need with some smart upgrades.

 

lol....It sounds like you just named every available part for the d30.

I'm going to be trying the dana30 on 35's, but I'll only get a chance to wheel maybe once a month. Mostly highway driving. There's a lot of people on this forum who run that combo and while I do hear about some failures, remember the vast majority of people aren't going to start a thread saying, " my d30 is still holding up!"

 

This is a D44 axle build thread, but worth looking at for reference...

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...highlight=cute

 

Pics! I'M IN IRAQ, KINDA HARD TO TAKE PICS!

 

WOW, that was a smart reply to a genuine post; Smart indeed.

Try a search under D30 and you will see were I got the idea from.

 

I know the thread that came from. Read it before. Just didn't think your answer was all that genious.

 

Don't go any deeper then 4.56's as the gear tooth contact is weaker with 4.88's/5.13's...(less contact area under load)
If you "want" those deeper gears consider taking it easy on that 30. Some people just can't do that.. sometimes.. Imho, strongly consider the axle upgrade at this point..
People installing alloy shafts are just moving the breaking point some where else, like the gears...
I can replace shafts easier than gears on the trail any day.
If you are putting in a selectable locker in front then you might as well go 30 spline with upgraded shafts and pray for no breakage at that point. Hence, the 4.56's if going that route for me.
"It does" work for some people, but never lasts as long as the axle upgrade would have for the same driver..