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37" tires whats needed

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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 05:21 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Just_Q

I tried doing this as a work around for the lockers only in 4lo. The answer, as far as I found was no. I even contacted the s-Pod guys who confirmed no. When I hooked it up it kept my lockers on. They said because the s-pod is always powered, there was no way to get the lockers off. Someone else may have figured a work around, as I am no electrical engineer.
So then no electric locker will work with the spod then? I thought the switches cut power on and off?
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 06:33 PM
  #22  
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Someone has done it on an eaton. My problem might be I was trying to tap into the existing wires and not running it as a stand alone switch for the lockers. With you just wiring direct from the axle to the spod, it may work. Hopefully someone that has swapped to a rubi 44 will chime in.
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 11:18 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by brycesaunders3241
So this summer I plan on 37" tires. I'm regearing to 4.56 and getting lockers. I want to know what some members think I need to do to the stock axles ( Dana 30 front/D44 rear). to be able to run 37's without breaking shit every time out on the trails.
I am running 37s on stock d30/ d44 and 3.73 gearing. My advice would be to not lock the d30 and to gusset it. Drive it till you blow it up or have the cash and get a prorock 44. I also am running a teraflex 2.5 with 3/4 spacers and the tf bumpstops. The front without spacers is fine and flexes well. The back hits my fender flares so chop that or have some issues. You will need adjustable lca in the back to move the axle back.

Once I return to the states in switching to a 3.5 X factor and flat fenders just didn't want to pay shipping to germany.

So to answer your question yes the d30/44 will handle 37s. The higher your gears(lower numbers) and not locked will last longer though. I wheel like a retard but avoid rocks and really bad mud and do fine. Pm me if you have any questions. Again though I would not lock it or up the gearing yet. Save for the pr44
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 01:27 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by TJM12
Can the factory locker be wired to the sPod and be fully usable without hassle.
Originally Posted by Just_Q
I tried doing this as a work around for the lockers only in 4lo. The answer, as far as I found was no. I even contacted the s-Pod guys who confirmed no. When I hooked it up it kept my lockers on. They said because the s-pod is always powered, there was no way to get the lockers off. Someone else may have figured a work around, as I am no electrical engineer.
Originally Posted by TJM12
So then no electric locker will work with the spod then? I thought the switches cut power on and off?
Originally Posted by Just_Q
Someone has done it on an eaton. My problem might be I was trying to tap into the existing wires and not running it as a stand alone switch for the lockers. With you just wiring direct from the axle to the spod, it may work. Hopefully someone that has swapped to a rubi 44 will chime in.
Actually the answer is yes. I run a factory locker up front and an ARB locker in the rear both through my SPOD. I swapped my 30 for a beefed up 44 to prepare for 37s, added 35 spline shafts in the rear etc etc. But the factory locker does work with my SPOD.

Run the two wires from the axle straight to SPOD and flip the switch to engage. All there is to it.

Edit: As far as the harness I believe Dyntrac can help you on that. Wires even come labeled hot and ground.

Last edited by JK505; Apr 6, 2015 at 01:37 AM.
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 03:25 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by JK505

Actually the answer is yes. I run a factory locker up front and an ARB locker in the rear both through my SPOD. I swapped my 30 for a beefed up 44 to prepare for 37s, added 35 spline shafts in the rear etc etc. But the factory locker does work with my SPOD.

Run the two wires from the axle straight to SPOD and flip the switch to engage. All there is to it.

Edit: As far as the harness I believe Dyntrac can help you on that. Wires even come labeled hot and ground.
Sweet, that's what i figured.
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 04:04 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by JK505
Actually the answer is yes. I run a factory locker up front and an ARB locker in the rear both through my SPOD. I swapped my 30 for a beefed up 44 to prepare for 37s, added 35 spline shafts in the rear etc etc. But the factory locker does work with my SPOD. Run the two wires from the axle straight to SPOD and flip the switch to engage. All there is to it. Edit: As far as the harness I believe Dyntrac can help you on that. Wires even come labeled hot and ground.
Agree. Not sure why someone would have an issue wiring them. It's the same as wiring a set of lights. I don't have an sPOD, but wired mine to a standard switch. There's no magic.
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 11:53 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
You can buy a new Rubi axle with 4.56 gears for less than you can regear and lock your stock axle. And then you can sell the D30 and it will be even less. A guy in OH sells new Rubi axles (complete) with whatever gears you want. $1650. Then sell the D30 for $600-$700. Net cost: $1000 and you have a D44 and all new parts.
That's gotta be too good to be true!!!
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 12:47 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
Agree. Not sure why someone would have an issue wiring them. It's the same as wiring a set of lights. I don't have an sPOD, but wired mine to a standard switch. There's no magic.
At one time electricity was considered magic actually
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 02:34 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
Agree. Not sure why someone would have an issue wiring them. It's the same as wiring a set of lights. I don't have an sPOD, but wired mine to a standard switch. There's no magic.
The issue I had was following the rubi locker modification instructions. When I spliced the wires, then hooked it up to the s-Pod, hit the switch they locked (good). Turn the switch off nothing, still locked (not good). I messed around with it for about 20 minutes switching wires etc. They either locked and stayed locked or they didn't do anything at all.
It was the magic e-locker not electricity.
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 02:42 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Just_Q
The issue I had was following the rubi locker modification instructions. When I spliced the wires, then hooked it up to the s-Pod, hit the switch they locked (good). Turn the switch off nothing, still locked (not good). I messed around with it for about 20 minutes switching wires etc. They either locked and stayed locked or they didn't do anything at all. It was the magic e-locker not electricity.
So then you have a Rubicon and were trying to run to the sPOD? Yeah, that may be an issue.

For non-rubicon owners, it's a direct wire just like a set of lights. If I had a rubicon and wanted to wire to an sPOD, I would cut the factory wire, thereby completely removing it from the jeeps system. Then wire directly like any other add on. Simple, and lets you have full control of the lockers rather than that factory BS.
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