37" tires whats needed
I tried doing this as a work around for the lockers only in 4lo. The answer, as far as I found was no. I even contacted the s-Pod guys who confirmed no. When I hooked it up it kept my lockers on. They said because the s-pod is always powered, there was no way to get the lockers off. Someone else may have figured a work around, as I am no electrical engineer.
Someone has done it on an eaton. My problem might be I was trying to tap into the existing wires and not running it as a stand alone switch for the lockers. With you just wiring direct from the axle to the spod, it may work. Hopefully someone that has swapped to a rubi 44 will chime in.
Once I return to the states in switching to a 3.5 X factor and flat fenders just didn't want to pay shipping to germany.
So to answer your question yes the d30/44 will handle 37s. The higher your gears(lower numbers) and not locked will last longer though. I wheel like a retard but avoid rocks and really bad mud and do fine. Pm me if you have any questions. Again though I would not lock it or up the gearing yet. Save for the pr44
I tried doing this as a work around for the lockers only in 4lo. The answer, as far as I found was no. I even contacted the s-Pod guys who confirmed no. When I hooked it up it kept my lockers on. They said because the s-pod is always powered, there was no way to get the lockers off. Someone else may have figured a work around, as I am no electrical engineer.
Someone has done it on an eaton. My problem might be I was trying to tap into the existing wires and not running it as a stand alone switch for the lockers. With you just wiring direct from the axle to the spod, it may work. Hopefully someone that has swapped to a rubi 44 will chime in.
Run the two wires from the axle straight to SPOD and flip the switch to engage. All there is to it.
Edit: As far as the harness I believe Dyntrac can help you on that. Wires even come labeled hot and ground.
Last edited by JK505; Apr 6, 2015 at 01:37 AM.
Actually the answer is yes. I run a factory locker up front and an ARB locker in the rear both through my SPOD. I swapped my 30 for a beefed up 44 to prepare for 37s, added 35 spline shafts in the rear etc etc. But the factory locker does work with my SPOD.
Run the two wires from the axle straight to SPOD and flip the switch to engage. All there is to it.
Edit: As far as the harness I believe Dyntrac can help you on that. Wires even come labeled hot and ground.

Actually the answer is yes. I run a factory locker up front and an ARB locker in the rear both through my SPOD. I swapped my 30 for a beefed up 44 to prepare for 37s, added 35 spline shafts in the rear etc etc. But the factory locker does work with my SPOD. Run the two wires from the axle straight to SPOD and flip the switch to engage. All there is to it.
Edit: As far as the harness I believe Dyntrac can help you on that. Wires even come labeled hot and ground. 

You can buy a new Rubi axle with 4.56 gears for less than you can regear and lock your stock axle. And then you can sell the D30 and it will be even less. A guy in OH sells new Rubi axles (complete) with whatever gears you want. $1650. Then sell the D30 for $600-$700. Net cost: $1000 and you have a D44 and all new parts.
It was the magic e-locker not electricity.
The issue I had was following the rubi locker modification instructions. When I spliced the wires, then hooked it up to the s-Pod, hit the switch they locked (good). Turn the switch off nothing, still locked (not good). I messed around with it for about 20 minutes switching wires etc. They either locked and stayed locked or they didn't do anything at all. It was the magic e-locker not electricity.
For non-rubicon owners, it's a direct wire just like a set of lights. If I had a rubicon and wanted to wire to an sPOD, I would cut the factory wire, thereby completely removing it from the jeeps system. Then wire directly like any other add on. Simple, and lets you have full control of the lockers rather than that factory BS.


