Currently running 33's. When I upgrade could I go to 37's or would they be to heavy/big for a 2010 jk 4 door? I have a 3 inch zone lift and plan on adding a banks cold air intake. I still want enough power.

 

Which transmission? How much power is "enough power"? And how much money are you putting into it?

My opinion - A tuner, re-gear and axle mods would be the bare minimum for 37's. And if that isn't "enough power", then you are looking at a S/C or Hemi swap...

 

i am in the same situation from what ive researched and been told by guys w 35s and 37s ,you will lose 6th gear if you have a 6 speed if you dont regear to 4:88s or even better 5:13S if you have a auto it will be a gear huntin fool the intake is not going to help all the much from what i have seen i went with a snorkel,drop in K&N,flashpaq,headers,and exhaust and my 3.8 came alive is it a animal no but i knew that when o bought it a 3.8 is what it is. I am headed int he new gear dirrection as soon as i have the money. i am no expert just what ive been told and from research have a good one

Josh

 

I have the automatic. Sounds like a lot money to go to 37's in upgrades. Maybe my best bet is 35's at the most. It is my daily driver.

 

Open the Drivetrain faq's and plug some numbers into the chart.

Don't know what gears you currently have, but:

Auto - 3.73's - 36" tires (guessing that your new 37's will be 36' when mounted...) = 1680ish rpm at 70 mph. Nowhere even close to a usable rpm number. If you have 3.21's, lower the rpm's by a bunch...

Turn OD Off, and you are back up to 2435ish rpm at 70. This is usable, but, not a permanent solution. You would 'need' at least a ProCal to recalibrate. A tuner would be better.

You would also still want at least C gussets. Gussets and sleeves would be better.

And then there are the lift/components considerations. Can you run 37's on your current lift? If you have to go higher, are you prepared for adding new driveshafts? Do you have adjustable ca's to set the new driveshafts? Adj trackbars to recenter the axles? etc...

 

The lift is fine. Especially with flat flares and maybe slightly higher bump stops. You would need at least 4.88s, 5.13s would be better. C gussets at a minimum and sleeves for added security. A stubby front bumper would be nice, too.

 

Well, it depends on what you are looking to do with the Jeep. Without some modifications to drivetrain the 37's will find the weak links in your factory setup pretty quick. However, if you intend on doing some upgrades to the drivetrain and steering, then throw the 37's on it and have some fun.
With either the 35's or the 37's some common sense should be used off-road, because they are both pushing the limits of factory components, especially on a non-rubicon.

I'd recommend the 35's, save the added strain on the various parts of your Jeep, keep it's road manners halfway decent, and be able to take it off-road without serious concern for grenaded parts.

I have a 2010 Rubi with 35's. The 37's have their advantages off-road, but nothing you can't accomplish with some skill and creative lines.

 

Thanks for all of the feedback. It is extremely helpful.

 

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I have been all over Moab several times with 35's and 5.13 gears and a automatic. They worked fine for me. Highway operation is OK also.