When you refer to "sleeving the axle", you are talking about installing sleeves in the axle housing tubes, correct?? The sleeves are then welded in?? Is this a big job?? Sorry for being so nieve, but I am just getting into the whole Jeep world....

 

yes and it's somewhat of a job. i should note that while sleeving your housing is good insurance to have, it's far from what you should be worried about when running 37's. the likelyhood that you'll break an "axle shaft" is far greater than ever bending or breaking a housing and upgrading them should take priority over sleeves. if you can do both, that would be even better but then, at that point, i would start considering upgrading to a dynatrac prorock 44 instead. but, that's just me.

 

this is true. It should be noted that I am planning on 60's front and back in 2 years and that sleves on 37s are a temp solution to hold of the inevitable.

 

like i said, sleeves are good insurance to have but there is no "inevitable". i ran big heavy 37x13.50 toyo mt's for over 2 years on a factory dana 44 WITHOUT sleeves and never saw any signs of breaking. i did however blow a locker and even a chromoly shaft during that time.

 

After I get the front sleeved and gusseted I am going to upgrade the axle shafts too. I am putting sleeves ahead of new shafts right now because I am regearing soon and will have both done at the same time, lot easier to sleeve during regear since gears will be out of housing and no risk of getting metal shavings in pumpkin. I also have spare shafts in case I need to change one on the trail. Hopefully I can get together enough money before the wheeling season really kicks off for better shafts. Man this is an expensive hobby

 

For the four door JK I would recommend 37" tires. The lower breakover angle makes them drag their belly more than a two door. The extra inch in tire size also just seems to make most trail obstacles "smaller", which sure seems to make them easier.

On the Dana 30 vs 44 issue. Both axles have the same tubes and c-knuckles, so if you need to sleeve and gusset a Dana 30, you need to sleeve and gusset a Dana 44 just as badly. Conversely, if you don't need to sleeve and gusset a Dana 44, you don't need to sleeve and gusset a Dana 30.

2 1/2" of lift with 2 1/2" extended bumpstops, flat fenders, and trimming pinch seems is plenty of lift for 37" tires, so your 3 1/2" Rock Krawler lift can also be made to work.

I use my JKU with 37" tires as my daily driver, each and every day. It is the most enjoyable to drive Jeep that I have ever owned (out of ~ 30 Jeeps)

 

From what I've gathered about running 37's correctly you would need a minimum of upper c gussets, re gear, front and rear trac bars and drive shafts, and Maby a drag link flip kit to correct steering angles and rubbing. Now this does depend on the size lift as well. I know I'm probably forgetting something but as of off the top of my head, this is what I was told to run when I make the switch.

 

I have posted this in other threads.

35s vs 37s on weight is hogwash. Some 35s weigh 72 lbs falken wild peaks vs a bfg AT 37 at 66.55 lbs. So just because it's a 37 it's heavier. With my theory, 35s can be 4- 15 lbs or so heavier than a 37 km2 at 70 lbs or 66.55 for the AT 37. According to jeep mag , every 10 pounds of unsprung tire weight is equal to adding 100 lbs of weight. So 4 tires equals 400 added lbs. So WHAT 37 and WHAT 35 you put on should be why you should go with the 35 or 37. This is my theory based on info I have gathered from the manufacturers.

 

Bump! I totally agree!

 

That's exactly what I've been wondering. I have 35 toyos and know they are heavy, and I think 37s fill the 4dr out better. I'm just having problems finding the weight of 37 mtr w Kevlar. Those are what I'm eyeing.

So I guess the question is, what kind of tires is the OP wanting to run?