I've run it up to 90 for short stretches of straight and it'll hang around 3200 w/no accel or uphill. It's scary as hell on 4" of lift, but the engine is happy. If you're in a hilly area the trans is still going to search for 3/4th @50mph but it's not nearly as bad as it used to be. Once you get a feel for the throttle and gears you can feather it along to stay in gear while going up a hill w/out down shifting, just expect to lose 5-10mph by the time you get to the top

 

I went with 5:13 w/auto and 35" on a 4dr x it runs 2450 rpms at 70 MPH still get around 15 MPG. Glad I didn't go with 4:88 the 5:13 are perfect I live in the south so we have hills and flat and I pull a duck boat and a small 12x6 trailer at different times it does fine. Major hills u will still need to hit the overdrive button off but only on major hills.

 

I live in north ga and i have a auto with 5.13 gears I also live in the mtns. When I save up I may switch to 5.38 gears or lower because I mainly have to drive with o/d off here and it kills my milage

 

I "think" I am regearing soon to 5.13's but was wondering for those of your with 5.38's have you had any issue with gears slipping? Someone told me that (and pardon my non-tenchinal terms here) that with 5.38's, you only get one tooth connecting at a time so slipping is common. With 5.13's, you get at least 1.5 teeth connecting so slipping is never an issue.

Hope that made sense . Anyone have issues with 5.38's?

 

Well even with 5.38s these Jeeps don't have enough power to stay in overdrive on a mountain grade, so that is what it is going to be like. It isn't something I would want to drive around all day long with, but for a ten mile long grade in the mountains it isn't too bad.

At least with 5.38s your Jeep doesn't have to downshift to second gear and rev to 5300 RPM for ten miles to climb that same grade in second gear.

 

Are you calculating the mileage out after you fuel up or are you going off the dash?

 

How many of you guys with 5.13's are running with a D30 in the front? If I've understood right, the ring and pinion becomes the weakest link with this combination with fewer teeth making contact on the gears. Would having 4.88's in a D30 be any better of a combination or is the difference too little to even help anything?
Would like to get to 35's when my 33's wear out, but don't see myself having the money to get into a Prorock 44. Thinking right now of just throwing gussets and sleeves or a truss and keeping my 30 open.
Any thoughts on all this?

 

I have 5:13's 2dr Auto running 37" (actual is 35.5 inches) Nothing to compare it to other than to say I thought it was doing too much searching for lower gear on moderate hills. Thought about re-gear but decided to try the superchip. Made a noticeable improvement for me. Not considering a re-gear now. Little road time mostly trail riding.

 

Gussets, sleeves, chromoly axles, Truetrac LSD should be good to go as long as you don't treat it like a Prorock 44.

 

I have had 35s and 5.13s for a while now and have done a lot of wheeling on this set up. No problems. I am a little reserved about doing a front locker in the Dana 30 since there have been issues that folks here have posted about. Im still undecided and haven't proved a need for a front locker yet.

I truely think (and do) that if you wheel with your brain and not the gas pedal the Dana 30 should last a long time.