Additional modifications to lift a 2012
07-07-2012, 03:24 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by CodyJK
I'm in the same boat with 2012 sport. I'm not sure how much lift/tires I want now or down the road so I'm thinking I might just go ahead and get a new driveshaft first so I won't have to worry about it. Tom Woods 1310?
Originally Posted by DanBlan
Been doing a some research on this too. It's my understanding that a new drive shaft is not needed if the exhaust extensions are used and vice versa.
Please, correct me if I'm wrong. This is simply based on what I've read on-line and we all know how accurate the internet can be.
I'm currently looking at a 3" lift with 35's on a 2012 JKUR and I'm planning on using the exhaust spacer. I'd really like to know which mod is really needed and why.
Please, correct me if I'm wrong. This is simply based on what I've read on-line and we all know how accurate the internet can be.
I'm currently looking at a 3" lift with 35's on a 2012 JKUR and I'm planning on using the exhaust spacer. I'd really like to know which mod is really needed and why.
I have a 2012 with 3.5" rk lift and 37s and gave me way more. I didn't use Exhaust spacers it's just a waist a JE reel 1310 ds is all you need.
07-07-2012, 04:00 AM
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I was told that by a local shop that if you regear a 2012 you will have to download a new program into computer to keep it from going into "limp mode". Is this true? I have always run a ProCal in past to correct speedo due to gears and tires, but the way they put it sounds like the 12's require a program from Chrysler.
07-07-2012, 04:34 AM
#13
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My driveshaft is not even close to the exhaust when I'm at full droop. I do have the exhaust spacers installed and also have bumpstops. I have seen where people that don't have bumpstop spacers are rubbing the driveshaft...is this the main difference?
07-07-2012, 04:47 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by OKJK11
I was told that by a local shop that if you regear a 2012 you will have to download a new program into computer to keep it from going into "limp mode". Is this true? I have always run a ProCal in past to correct speedo due to gears and tires, but the way they put it sounds like the 12's require a program from Chrysler.
07-07-2012, 05:05 AM
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I was told that by a local shop that if you regear a 2012 you will have to download a new program into computer to keep it from going into "limp mode". Is this true? I have always run a ProCal in past to correct speedo due to gears and tires, but the way they put it sounds like the 12's require a program from Chrysler.
Now, you can lift the 2012's up to 3". The caveat is that you have to use limiting straps so that you don't flex out at max and hit the driveshaft on the exhaust. Kind of defeats the purpose of the lift. Got this information right from the Jeep dealer when I was talking to them about the Mopar 3" lift for my wife's Jeep.
As mentioned above, if you lift it you will need to either get new shocks or shock extensions.
07-07-2012, 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by bdmckenna
Yes it is true. Using a Procal will correct the issue with the limp mode. Been there, done that.
Now, you can lift the 2012's up to 3". The caveat is that you have to use limiting straps so that you don't flex out at max and hit the driveshaft on the exhaust. Kind of defeats the purpose of the lift. Got this information right from the Jeep dealer when I was talking to them about the Mopar 3" lift for my wife's Jeep.
As mentioned above, if you lift it you will need to either get new shocks or shock extensions.
07-07-2012, 06:52 AM
#17
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At 2.5 you should still probably need to get the driveshaft... won't need the driveshaft + spacer untill you go over 3.5 or so.
The front DS is at a pretty sharp pinch even with only 2.5 inches... some people have run this much lift without DS problems, others tear their driveshaft boot up on the way home from the shop.
It sucks that it adds $460 to our lift installs but thats the price we pay for having the new pentastar... we have more of a need for the front driveshaft but less of a need to regear right away... pretty good trade IMHO
The front DS is at a pretty sharp pinch even with only 2.5 inches... some people have run this much lift without DS problems, others tear their driveshaft boot up on the way home from the shop.
It sucks that it adds $460 to our lift installs but thats the price we pay for having the new pentastar... we have more of a need for the front driveshaft but less of a need to regear right away... pretty good trade IMHO
07-07-2012, 08:56 AM
#18
Been doing a some research on this too. It's my understanding that a new drive shaft is not needed if the exhaust extensions are used and vice versa.
Please, correct me if I'm wrong. This is simply based on what I've read on-line and we all know how accurate the internet can be.
I'm currently looking at a 3" lift with 35's on a 2012 JKUR and I'm planning on using the exhaust spacer. I'd really like to know which mod is really needed and why.
Please, correct me if I'm wrong. This is simply based on what I've read on-line and we all know how accurate the internet can be.
I'm currently looking at a 3" lift with 35's on a 2012 JKUR and I'm planning on using the exhaust spacer. I'd really like to know which mod is really needed and why.
I talked to a manufacturer that said spacers are fine....
Another manufacturer told me if I got shocks to limit travel I would be fine
A shop told me I need both spacers and driveshaft
Wayoflife told me he helped a buddy do a three inch lift and they just did driveshaft
There are two or three members who claim the whole drive shaft issue is a myth and they are running fine lifted
Another user posted a few days ago he didn't do either and he tore up his driveshaft boot before he even went off road
My last car was a sports car and I learned really quick how things can go bad when you start modding a stock exhaust w/o a proper tune... Not to mention dealing with exhaust leaks and rattling... The spacers are such a minor change I doubt they would have had any problems... I just didn't want to get that started again... For me the price of the driveshaft was worth it to get rid of the worry.
07-07-2012, 10:51 AM
#19
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If you replace the front drive shaft with an aftermarket 1310 or 1350, you don't need the exhaust spacers. The exhaust spacers or AFE y-pipe are temporary fixes that only address the exhaust crossover clearance. With 2.5" or more of lift and longer than stock shocks on the 2012s, the front drive shaft is at an extreme angle and will eventually fail. Do it right the first time...replace the front drive shaft and be done with it.
07-07-2012, 10:55 AM
#20
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The bump stops have nothing to do with droop. The longer aftermarket shocks are what causes the drive shaft to make contact with the exhaust crossover.