Advice
I have a RE 4.5" lift. I have not had any trouble with it such as the bushing problem many have spoke of here. My trouble deals with the front Sway Bar Disconnects on the E-disco that RE provides (I have written about this before and I am now ready to act on it). It would seem that the bolts for this lift are to be installed at the axle outboard to inboard. The top, attached to the bar itself is installed inboard to outboard, leaving exposed threads towards the inner sidewall. Now I know that other manufacturers links install the sameway. Here is the rub. One day while wheeling I tore up a tire on the passenger side on the upper disconnect
. Come to find out the shop that installed my lift (been in business for 25+years) installed a 3" bolt which is for the manual application instead of the 2.5"bolt for the E-disco. Now the 1/2" difference I know is not much but in the big picture it will cost me 300.00 for a new Kevlar MTR (by the way the MTR was brand new) RE advised a wheel with 4.5" BS is what is needed for this lift and I have that. So now that we know that RE has suspect Sway Bar discos. my thoughts to remedy the problem are now as follows:
1. Buy 1.5" Spider Trax Wheel Spacers for more clearance.
2. Eat the cost of a new a MTR and drive on.
3. Indentify a better disco, I am willing to go with a manual one and bypass the e-disco altogether .
So here are my two questions. What manual disconnect is out there that mounts with the bolts top and bottom outboard to inboard? And how would some of you approach this problem?
. Come to find out the shop that installed my lift (been in business for 25+years) installed a 3" bolt which is for the manual application instead of the 2.5"bolt for the E-disco. Now the 1/2" difference I know is not much but in the big picture it will cost me 300.00 for a new Kevlar MTR (by the way the MTR was brand new) RE advised a wheel with 4.5" BS is what is needed for this lift and I have that. So now that we know that RE has suspect Sway Bar discos. my thoughts to remedy the problem are now as follows:1. Buy 1.5" Spider Trax Wheel Spacers for more clearance.
2. Eat the cost of a new a MTR and drive on.
3. Indentify a better disco, I am willing to go with a manual one and bypass the e-disco altogether .
So here are my two questions. What manual disconnect is out there that mounts with the bolts top and bottom outboard to inboard? And how would some of you approach this problem?
[QUOTE=Steel Rain;1631244]I have a RE 4.5" lift. I have not had any trouble with it such as the bushing problem many have spoke of here. My trouble deals with the front Sway Bar Disconnects on the E-disco that RE provides (I have written about this before and I am now ready to act on it). It would seem that the bolts for this lift are to be installed at the axle outboard to inboard. The top, attached to the bar itself is installed inboard to outboard, leaving exposed threads towards the inner sidewall. Now I know that other manufacturers links install the sameway. Here is the rub. One day while wheeling I tore up a tire on the passenger side on the upper disconnect
. Come to find out the shop that installed my lift (been in business for 25+years) installed a 3" bolt which is for the manual application instead of the 2.5"bolt for the E-disco. Now the 1/2" difference I know is not much but in the big picture it will cost me 300.00 for a new Kevlar MTR (by the way the MTR was brand new) RE advised a wheel with 4.5" BS is what is needed for this lift and I have that. So now that we know that RE has suspect Sway Bar discos. my thoughts to remedy the problem are now as follows:
1. Buy 1.5" Spider Trax Wheel Spacers for more clearance.
2. Eat the cost of a new a MTR and drive on.
3. Indentify a better disco, I am willing to go with a manual one and bypass the e-disco altogether .
So here are my two questions. What manual disconnect is out there that mounts with the bolts top and bottom outboard to inboard? And how would some of you approach this problem?
[/QUOTE
Anyone?
. Come to find out the shop that installed my lift (been in business for 25+years) installed a 3" bolt which is for the manual application instead of the 2.5"bolt for the E-disco. Now the 1/2" difference I know is not much but in the big picture it will cost me 300.00 for a new Kevlar MTR (by the way the MTR was brand new) RE advised a wheel with 4.5" BS is what is needed for this lift and I have that. So now that we know that RE has suspect Sway Bar discos. my thoughts to remedy the problem are now as follows:1. Buy 1.5" Spider Trax Wheel Spacers for more clearance.
2. Eat the cost of a new a MTR and drive on.
3. Indentify a better disco, I am willing to go with a manual one and bypass the e-disco altogether .
So here are my two questions. What manual disconnect is out there that mounts with the bolts top and bottom outboard to inboard? And how would some of you approach this problem?
[/QUOTEAnyone?


