Alignment
What am I missing here? I have checked the toe (numerous times) with a tape and it comes out to 1/8 toe in. The alignment shop says it toed out badly? It drives like it has a toe issue, follows every line and crack on the road and seems a bit darty,but does not pull left or right. . I checked,measured and lined everything with a laser before the lift when it was stock. I put the axle location back exactly where it was factory,put the steering wheel back in the exact same location and never touched the toe after the lift. How is it my tape measurements differ so badly from the shops alignment machine?
2014 JKUR with 800 miles, 37 MTRs, 4" actual lift in the front, 3" in the rear. Sits level.
2014 JKUR with 800 miles, 37 MTRs, 4" actual lift in the front, 3" in the rear. Sits level.
I just took some caster out due to drive line vibration,and I expected it to drive even worse but it didn't really. I have tried tire pressures of 28,30,35 and 40 and it still doesn't track correctly.
You should be fine with less caster. 5* is a good place to be with caster and on a JKU should drive just fine. I wouldn't go above 5* unless you're running an aftermarket axle.
Check out a different alignment shop. Oddly, I had the same anomaly as you. What I measure for toe at home is pretty far off what the alignment shop says. I have the 37" MTRs as well. A good alignment rack normalizes for variations in wheels and tires to get an accurate measurement. Get a second opinion and go from there. I increased toe in and the tires drive much better now.
Check out a different alignment shop. Oddly, I had the same anomaly as you. What I measure for toe at home is pretty far off what the alignment shop says. I have the 37" MTRs as well. A good alignment rack normalizes for variations in wheels and tires to get an accurate measurement. Get a second opinion and go from there. I increased toe in and the tires drive much better now.
You should be fine with less caster. 5* is a good place to be with caster and on a JKU should drive just fine. I wouldn't go above 5* unless you're running an aftermarket axle.
Check out a different alignment shop. Oddly, I had the same anomaly as you. What I measure for toe at home is pretty far off what the alignment shop says. I have the 37" MTRs as well. A good alignment rack normalizes for variations in wheels and tires to get an accurate measurement. Get a second opinion and go from there. I increased toe in and the tires drive much better now.
Check out a different alignment shop. Oddly, I had the same anomaly as you. What I measure for toe at home is pretty far off what the alignment shop says. I have the 37" MTRs as well. A good alignment rack normalizes for variations in wheels and tires to get an accurate measurement. Get a second opinion and go from there. I increased toe in and the tires drive much better now.
Its at 1/8 toe in now. I could try it at 1/4 but that seems like a lot?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2pjCebuyDo
More than about 4.5* caster is too much with a 4" lift, especially with a dual cardan driveshaft.
Did you loosen all the control arm and trackbar bolts for the install and wait until the full weight of the vehicle was back on the ground at the new ride height to torque any bolts on ends that have rubber or polyurethane bushings?
What lift do you have?
What is your tire psi?
When you read their printout, it says your total toe in is 0.24*. You need to ignore the individual side toe specs. They didn't have your steering straight on the rack. So, it is turned to one side more than the other.
More than about 4.5* caster is too much with a 4" lift, especially with a dual cardan driveshaft.
Did you loosen all the control arm and trackbar bolts for the install and wait until the full weight of the vehicle was back on the ground at the new ride height to torque any bolts on ends that have rubber or polyurethane bushings?
What lift do you have?
What is your tire psi?
When you read their printout, it says your total toe in is 0.24*. You need to ignore the individual side toe specs. They didn't have your steering straight on the rack. So, it is turned to one side more than the other.
Last edited by planman; May 6, 2014 at 05:03 AM.
More than about 4.5* caster is too much with a 4" lift, especially with a dual cardan driveshaft.
Did you loosen all the control arm and trackbar bolts for the install and wait until the full weight of the vehicle was back on the ground at the new ride height to torque any bolts on ends that have rubber or polyurethane bushings?
What lift do you have?
What is your tire psi?
When you read their printout, it says your total toe in is 0.24*. You need to ignore the individual side toe specs. They didn't have your steering straight on the rack. So, it is turned to one side more than the other.
-Springs are Synergy 3" front and 2" rear which yielded me 4" in the front and 3" rear,sits level.
-Currie LCA and track bars were installed and suspension relaxed at ride height(without shocks).
-Bolts torqued,driven,then relaxed and retorqued.
-Drag link used to align steering wheel but the tie rod has never been adjusted for toe from the factory.
-Tire pressure has been at 28,30,32,35,and even 40. 37: MTR's Wheels are 9" wide
-Synergy raised rear track bar mount
I have tried marking the tires with paint, checking at the front then rotaing 180* and checking at the rear both at axle center line. On and off jack stands. I have also used straight edges at axle center line to measure both front and rear,on and off jack stands. All 4 resluts were the same, 1/8 toe in.
Going off the print out of .24* total, I should be getting 1/4 toe in when I measure it? Im going to put it at 0*,drive it and then take it back to the alingment shop.
Trending Topics
No. Im trying to avoid using one so I dont lose my up travel. If what Im feeling is axle shift and I do have to use the drag link flip, I will have to notch the frame to gain some up travel back. As of right now I have just the rear raised track bar mount.
I saw that and edited my post. You have a raised rear axle side bracket, not a front.
The next step would be to borrow a different set of tires to see if the dartiness changes.
Too much toe-in would cause dartiness, and your tire tread would develop a feathered wear pattern.
If everything is torqued to spec, with a rig that has less than 1000 miles, your toe-in is 1/8" with 37" tires, your caster is around 4.5*, your tire psi is around 30, you don't have rubber bushings that are pre-loaded/twisted/binding, your steering stabilizer isn't loose or dented or leaking, your unit bearings and steering linkages are not loose or worn, you shouldn't have dirtiness unless the roads are very rutted.
The next step would be to borrow a different set of tires to see if the dartiness changes.
Too much toe-in would cause dartiness, and your tire tread would develop a feathered wear pattern.
If everything is torqued to spec, with a rig that has less than 1000 miles, your toe-in is 1/8" with 37" tires, your caster is around 4.5*, your tire psi is around 30, you don't have rubber bushings that are pre-loaded/twisted/binding, your steering stabilizer isn't loose or dented or leaking, your unit bearings and steering linkages are not loose or worn, you shouldn't have dirtiness unless the roads are very rutted.
Last edited by planman; May 6, 2014 at 10:23 AM.
I saw that and edited my post. You have a raised rear axle side bracket, not a front.
The next step would be to borrow a different set of tires to see if the dartiness changes.
Too much toe-in would cause dartiness, and your tire tread would develop a feathered wear pattern.
If everything is torqued to spec, with a rig that has less than 1000 miles, your toe-in is 1/8" with 37" tires, your caster is around 4.5*, your tire psi is around 30, you don't have rubber bushings that are pre-loaded/twisted/binding, your steering stabilizer isn't loose or dented or leaking, your unit bearings and steering linkages are not loose or worn, you shouldn't have dirtiness unless the roads are very rutted.
The next step would be to borrow a different set of tires to see if the dartiness changes.
Too much toe-in would cause dartiness, and your tire tread would develop a feathered wear pattern.
If everything is torqued to spec, with a rig that has less than 1000 miles, your toe-in is 1/8" with 37" tires, your caster is around 4.5*, your tire psi is around 30, you don't have rubber bushings that are pre-loaded/twisted/binding, your steering stabilizer isn't loose or dented or leaking, your unit bearings and steering linkages are not loose or worn, you shouldn't have dirtiness unless the roads are very rutted.


