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Alignment, did i get ripped off?

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Old May 7, 2010 | 05:40 PM
  #1  
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Default Alignment, did i get ripped off?

I just got finished installing my Rock Krawler 5.5 Long Arm kit and took my Jeep to the alignment Shop. The manager informed me that the price was going to be a little higher since the Jeep is lifted with oversized tires, I can understand that. When I went back to the shop several hours later the manager told me that all they could adjust is the toe in and they had to charge me an additional $25 because they had to disconnect one end of the tie rod to do so. I was very pissed and told him that I thought I was paying for an alignment; I didn’t have time to argue because I had some where to be. Am I wrong for thinking that they should have adjusted the control arms to get my rig within specs? $120 later this is where I stand with my alignment:

Front Left Camber: -1.4 (specified -0.6 to 0.1)
Caster: 1.0 (specified 3.7 to 4.7)
Toe: 0.0
Front Right Camber: -1.0 (specified -0.6 to 0.1)
Caster: 0.8 (Specified 3.7 to 4.7)
Toe: 0.0
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Old May 7, 2010 | 05:56 PM
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Uh, your control arms should have been adjusted to 5-7 degrees of castor , if you still have the stock tierod, it's adjusted on the jeep. Looks like they set your toe to 0. You got ripped.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 06:00 PM
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Did they just give you one spec sheet, I've always asked for before and after so I know where I was and what they did. Your jk must drive like shit at 1 degree of castor
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Old May 7, 2010 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mkjeep
Uh, your control arms should have been adjusted to 5-7 degrees of castor , if you still have the stock tierod, it's adjusted on the jeep. Looks like they set your toe to 0. You got ripped.
I have the heavy duty Rock Krawler Tie Rod and it is required to remove one end.

Has anyone with adjustable Control Arms had an allignment and did they adjust the Control Arms? Would I be wrong to go back and and ask them to adjust my control arms?
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Old May 7, 2010 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mkjeep
Did they just give you one spec sheet, I've always asked for before and after so I know where I was and what they did. Your jk must drive like shit at 1 degree of castor
Yeah the spec sheet had before and after but the only thing that changed any was the Toe in. I'm not happy with the way it drives right now but the castor will be changing one way or another tomorrow and then I can provide an accurate assessment.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 06:13 PM
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It only takes a tierod puller and 2mins to drop that rod. I had an alignment done on mine, adjusted my ca's to 6.2 driverside 6.9 pass side. Oh , my alinment was $70, I was running 1/2in toein and was chewing up my new tires, they 0'd the toe and told me to watch the tire wear. Although 1/8" toe in is reccommended , mine is doing fine. My original castor I had set was 5.3 and 5.6, I had used a cheap angle finder and it said 6degrees. So, you can get it close with an angle finder.

Last edited by mkjeep; May 7, 2010 at 06:17 PM.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MOJEEP
I just got finished installing my Rock Krawler 5.5 Long Arm kit and took my Jeep to the alignment Shop. The manager informed me that the price was going to be a little higher since the Jeep is lifted with oversized tires, I can understand that. When I went back to the shop several hours later the manager told me that all they could adjust is the toe in and they had to charge me an additional $25 because they had to disconnect one end of the tie rod to do so. I was very pissed and told him that I thought I was paying for an alignment; I didn’t have time to argue because I had some where to be. Am I wrong for thinking that they should have adjusted the control arms to get my rig within specs? $120 later this is where I stand with my alignment:

Front Left Camber: -1.4 (specified -0.6 to 0.1)
Caster: 1.0 (specified 3.7 to 4.7)
Toe: 0.0
Front Right Camber: -1.0 (specified -0.6 to 0.1)
Caster: 0.8 (Specified 3.7 to 4.7)
Toe: 0.0
Im not feeling those specs, something does not look right. Your arms are adjustable right? If so, Id adjust your castor to ~4.5-5.5, somewhere around there. Every lift is going to feel different. Too much castor I suspect is grenading some of these transfer cases, so I would give up some driveability to prevent that. Also your camber is off, I get your ball joints are shit. Get some prosteers(fixed my camber). Now what Im saying is not gospel, and I know there are many opinions on this, but from many many many adjustments these are the conclusions I have come up with.

Last edited by Ryanc; May 7, 2010 at 06:56 PM.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryanc
Im not feeling those specs, something does not look right. Your arms are adjustable right?
Yeah everything is adjustable on this kit. I would think for $120 the shop could loosen a few bolts and make the adjustments. I'm capable but they charged me and had the machine right there to tell them where they were with every turn. I guess they arent used to dealing with off road rigs so it was going to be to big of a pain in their ass.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 07:02 PM
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Like I said I was in a hurry and didnt have time to let them know how I felt about thier "alignment" I just read my paperwork and it shows a three month warranty on the alignment. I will be back in the a.m. to get this all taken care of. I have a feeling they are going to tell me to get Phucked. Sad thing is now I would rather take it to a more competent shop.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 07:05 PM
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I'd bring it to a "good" alinement shop and before they touch it ask for before and after specs and also ask them if they know what adj. control arms are. Then when your rig is aligned, bring the spec sheet back to the assholes that ripped you off and get your money back.
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