Anotehr locker question
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JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Dallas, TX
Anotehr locker question
I've seen the writeups but they don't really apply (i don't think). I have an X and just installed a Rubi Dana44. I wanted to use the factory wiring and button, but understand that it is way too large of a PIA, so I have an ARB switch. I figured I would mounit it on that blank panel in front of my shifter.
The switch has a light on it, but the relay thing looks way too intimidating to me. Is there a way to simply mount this switch and wire it up in a hurry so I can wheel with a locker sooner rather than later. I just don't know which prongs (therre are 5) to use on the switch or where to run the wires.
Sorry - electrical stuff confuses the crap out of me.
The switch has a light on it, but the relay thing looks way too intimidating to me. Is there a way to simply mount this switch and wire it up in a hurry so I can wheel with a locker sooner rather than later. I just don't know which prongs (therre are 5) to use on the switch or where to run the wires.
Sorry - electrical stuff confuses the crap out of me.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 241
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From: Dallas, TX
You _really should_ use that relay. If you just hooked a switch in-line with the power going to the locker, you could burn up your switch (that relay is probably rated to 30A, whereas most switches you'll find are rated much lower, around 2A), or even worse, catch something on fire.
Ok, now, I don't know much about that locker's wiring, but I can tell you about that relay.
If you look at the relay, you'll see each of those pins are numbered.
Let's talk about #'s 85 and 86 on there. To one you will connect a ground wire, and to the other the feed wire from your switch. It does not matter which.
Pin #30 is your "input power" wire. To this pin will go a _fused_ connection to the + terminal on your battery, or some other source you desire. Make sure you fuse it to the lesser of: 30A (the max load for the relay) or whatever the Locker's input is. Always choose the lowest number, and keep the fuse as close to the battery as possible =)
Now, for the "input power" (positive feed) wire on your locker for when _on_, use pin #87. If the locker also has an input that should be engaged when it is _off_ attach that one to #87A.
For the switch its self:
There will be three 'pins' on it, one will be the ground. Attach this to any ground you like (I usually use one of the cigarette lighter grounds). You can skip this one if you don't need the light to come on. The other two pins will be the feed in and out pins. When on, the two pins will be connected. When off, the two pins will be disconnected. For determining which one to connect the "hot" wire (the one with power, from your lighter or battery), I use a continuity tester. Whichever pin has continuity with the ground pin when OFF is the output - the other is your input. (Otherwise the light will always be on.) Make sure you fuse the live end at 2A if you're coming off the battery.
Hope this helps.
!c
Ok, now, I don't know much about that locker's wiring, but I can tell you about that relay.
If you look at the relay, you'll see each of those pins are numbered.
Let's talk about #'s 85 and 86 on there. To one you will connect a ground wire, and to the other the feed wire from your switch. It does not matter which.
Pin #30 is your "input power" wire. To this pin will go a _fused_ connection to the + terminal on your battery, or some other source you desire. Make sure you fuse it to the lesser of: 30A (the max load for the relay) or whatever the Locker's input is. Always choose the lowest number, and keep the fuse as close to the battery as possible =)
Now, for the "input power" (positive feed) wire on your locker for when _on_, use pin #87. If the locker also has an input that should be engaged when it is _off_ attach that one to #87A.
For the switch its self:
There will be three 'pins' on it, one will be the ground. Attach this to any ground you like (I usually use one of the cigarette lighter grounds). You can skip this one if you don't need the light to come on. The other two pins will be the feed in and out pins. When on, the two pins will be connected. When off, the two pins will be disconnected. For determining which one to connect the "hot" wire (the one with power, from your lighter or battery), I use a continuity tester. Whichever pin has continuity with the ground pin when OFF is the output - the other is your input. (Otherwise the light will always be on.) Make sure you fuse the live end at 2A if you're coming off the battery.
Hope this helps.
!c
My switch has 5 pins, not 3. 2 on top, 2 on bottom and 1 in center
Are the relays you speak of on every JK, no matter what configuration?
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 241
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From: Dallas, TX
To be a little more concise:
#85 - ground
#86 - from switch
#30 - from battery + terminal (fused no greater than 30A)
#87 - to locker + terminal
Switch:
Gnd Pin: ground
Either of the remaining two pins: + power source (usually off one of the cig lighters, fuse @ 2A if coming directly from + pole on battery)
The remaining pin: to #86 on relay
If the light is always on on your switch, even when turned off, swap the input and output wires.
!c
#85 - ground
#86 - from switch
#30 - from battery + terminal (fused no greater than 30A)
#87 - to locker + terminal
Switch:
Gnd Pin: ground
Either of the remaining two pins: + power source (usually off one of the cig lighters, fuse @ 2A if coming directly from + pole on battery)
The remaining pin: to #86 on relay
If the light is always on on your switch, even when turned off, swap the input and output wires.
!c
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 241
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From: Dallas, TX
WHAT WAS SAID:
One little thing - if you got it all wired up, and it doesn't fire when you hit the trigger (but the light comes on on your switch), try connecting #85 to - battery pole instead of ground. I always get it a little confused in my head on that one, but it should work w/ a ground. You just need a current flowing between 85 and 86 to flip the switch between pin 30 and 87. (Normally, with no power, 30 will be connected to 87a.)
WHAT WAS HEARD:
85, 30, 47, 22, 18. It should work.
I'm gonna blow myself up. this will be a fun project.
One little thing - if you got it all wired up, and it doesn't fire when you hit the trigger (but the light comes on on your switch), try connecting #85 to - battery pole instead of ground. I always get it a little confused in my head on that one, but it should work w/ a ground. You just need a current flowing between 85 and 86 to flip the switch between pin 30 and 87. (Normally, with no power, 30 will be connected to 87a.)
WHAT WAS HEARD:
85, 30, 47, 22, 18. It should work.
I'm gonna blow myself up. this will be a fun project.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
