Another Death Wobble Question
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Another Death Wobble Question
I need some help with DW. I have a TF BB 2.5" list with 35" tires. I never experienced DW until I upgraded my front springs to 2.5" lift springs and took out the front lift BB pucks. With the new springs the front was a little higher than it was before. I took it for a drive and about S* my pants when the DW started. Had to completely stop my JKU to stop the DW. I took it for an alignment and he said the front caster is too far out of range. I went home took the new front springs out and replaced them with the stock springs and BB puck and the DW went away completely. For good measure I upgraded the track-bar bolts with the 9/16th recommended bolts and did not have DW. Fast forward to a year later I replaced my front shocks with Fox 2.0 1.5 to 2.5" lift shocks and removed the BB shock mount bracket. The new shocks gave a little higher lift. Drove it and no problems at all. A few days later I installed the rear shocks with Fox 2.0 1.5 - 2.5" lift shocks and removed the rear BB shock bracket as well as swapped out the Steering dampener with the Fox 2.0 Performance Series Smooth Body IFP Stabilizer as a direct bolt on. Now I have DW again. I would like to keep the new shocks. Any recommendations?
#2
JK Freak
1. Check your ball joints. Jack up the front tires, stick a shovel or rod under the tire and pry upwards while watching the knuckle. Plenty of vids online if you need a reference point for the amount of play they should/shouldn't have.
2. Check the front trackbar mount HOLE for ovaling.
3. Re-torque everything to proper spec. Track bar, front brake calipers, and all lower arms = 125 ft.lbs. Upper control arms and rear brake caliper: 75 ft.lbs.
4. If you have adjustable control arms, check the joints.
5. Check the end links on your drag link and tie rod
Caster will never cause DW, but it can instigate it if you have other problems. You never mentioned the year or miles, but I have a strong feeling it's either your ball joints or improper torque. I'd remove your steering stabilizer until you can pinpoint the cause of your DW...or it'll just mask the issues.
2. Check the front trackbar mount HOLE for ovaling.
3. Re-torque everything to proper spec. Track bar, front brake calipers, and all lower arms = 125 ft.lbs. Upper control arms and rear brake caliper: 75 ft.lbs.
4. If you have adjustable control arms, check the joints.
5. Check the end links on your drag link and tie rod
Caster will never cause DW, but it can instigate it if you have other problems. You never mentioned the year or miles, but I have a strong feeling it's either your ball joints or improper torque. I'd remove your steering stabilizer until you can pinpoint the cause of your DW...or it'll just mask the issues.
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DiamondDan73 (03-14-2018)
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DiamondDan73 (03-14-2018)
#6
JK Jedi
LOL, you're asking a question there's not a great answer to. The best answer is Rare Parts, but they'll cost ya. Next is Dynatrac, but they'll cost ya. After that, you can lump Synergy, Teraflex, Alloy,etc all in the hit-and-miss pile of $250 BJs. I wouldn't bother putting factory back in there.
Did you perform the suggested check and yours are indeed shot?
Did you perform the suggested check and yours are indeed shot?
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BoraBora (03-15-2018)
#7
Sponsoring Manufacturer
You can probably guess which one's we'll recommend to you! ;-)
Dynatrac Heavy-Duty Balljoints have the advantage of being rebuildable, without having to perform major disassembly to do so. This means less time and/or money spent on labor, and when compared to the cost of having to fully replace the balljoints again, our Heavy-Duty Balljoints pay for themselves. It also cuts down on wear on the knuckle because you're not having to press balljoints in and out repeatedly, which can wear out the hole and cause problems later on.
You can read more about Dynatrac Heavy-Duty Balljoints on our website, along with seeing how easy they are to rebuild, and multiple magazine tech articles showing the differences when you upgrade to Dynatrac units.
https://www.dynatrac.com/rebuildable...alljoints.html
Dynatrac Heavy-Duty Balljoints have the advantage of being rebuildable, without having to perform major disassembly to do so. This means less time and/or money spent on labor, and when compared to the cost of having to fully replace the balljoints again, our Heavy-Duty Balljoints pay for themselves. It also cuts down on wear on the knuckle because you're not having to press balljoints in and out repeatedly, which can wear out the hole and cause problems later on.
You can read more about Dynatrac Heavy-Duty Balljoints on our website, along with seeing how easy they are to rebuild, and multiple magazine tech articles showing the differences when you upgrade to Dynatrac units.
https://www.dynatrac.com/rebuildable...alljoints.html
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#8
JK Enthusiast
I would not recommend Synergy balljoints. I have replaced 2 sets in the last 3-5 years. I did not write down when I changed on the first set but they went out and I put new ones in May of 2016. Have put on 16,000 miles and they need to be replaced again. Each time just out of warranty so I have to pay each time.
#9
JK Freak
Yeah...Resharp nailed it. The Synergy, Alloy USA, and Teraflex all fall into the same category of : '?'
I had my Teraflex ball joints fail (1 of the lowers) after a few thousand miles. Contacted Teraflex and they were on national backorder for months (go figure). The Rare Parts are supposedly followed by Dyna.
I had my Teraflex ball joints fail (1 of the lowers) after a few thousand miles. Contacted Teraflex and they were on national backorder for months (go figure). The Rare Parts are supposedly followed by Dyna.
#10
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Thank you everyone for your help so far. I'm kinda embarrassed to say I do not have death wobble. My wife told me the jeep is all over the road on the freeway and I assumed the worst. Today I was able to take it out and was ready for the worst.
I do do not have death wobble. I do have an unstable ride. At highway speeds there is a side to side "floating." That is the only way I can describe it. My best guess is something to do with the Track Bar. My frame is off by an inch. I have an extra inch on my driver side vs my passenger side. I measured from the outside of my divers tire to the side of my fender and I have 4 inches and on my passengers side I have 3 inches. I think this is what is causing the floating side to side on the freeway. I ordered a TF adjustable track bar so I can get my frame centered. I think this will do the trick. The back is pretty centered.
Does this sound right?
I do do not have death wobble. I do have an unstable ride. At highway speeds there is a side to side "floating." That is the only way I can describe it. My best guess is something to do with the Track Bar. My frame is off by an inch. I have an extra inch on my driver side vs my passenger side. I measured from the outside of my divers tire to the side of my fender and I have 4 inches and on my passengers side I have 3 inches. I think this is what is causing the floating side to side on the freeway. I ordered a TF adjustable track bar so I can get my frame centered. I think this will do the trick. The back is pretty centered.
Does this sound right?