Another Death Wobble Question
03-15-2018, 09:02 PM
#11
I would have your caster checked at an alignment shop. Should be around 4.5*. The spring lift may have given you greater height than you had with just the spacers throwing your caster out of whack enough to where you're feeling it now. I assume you don't have adjustable lower control arms. Adjustable LCAs are probably the ideal purchase, but you could get away with fixed LCAs designed for rigs running 2" lift, or even correction brackets if you really had to. No other way to adjust the caster otherwise.
Edit: found the following thread that gives you more info... and maybe even a way to check the caster without taking it to a shop. I may have misquoted above. 4.5* might even be too low. Recommendations range from 4.5* up to 6 or 7* depending on the lift and your specific situation.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...oblems-138561/
Edit: found the following thread that gives you more info... and maybe even a way to check the caster without taking it to a shop. I may have misquoted above. 4.5* might even be too low. Recommendations range from 4.5* up to 6 or 7* depending on the lift and your specific situation.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...oblems-138561/
Last edited by smittycm; 03-15-2018 at 09:13 PM.
03-16-2018, 06:58 AM
#12
JK Jedi
Original posts -
Followed by this -
This thread is a hot mess. If you are netting 4" of actual lift, and you have not corrected your caster, you are probably way low. Keep in mind that caster from the factory is 4.2*. I wouldn't go as high as 6*+ myself. There's no hard and fast number, but most of us lifted guys are in that 4*-5* range. You are probably at 3* or below if you have not corrected this issue yet. Also, that steering stabilizer isn't helping your cause. That FOX is a gas charged unit. Think about how hard it is to compress a gas charged shock. Now think about sticking that on as a steering stabilizer. It is constantly trying to expand with a lot of force, which is going to be pressuring that tie rod towards the driver side. You should really use a SS that has equal resistance both expanding and collapsing. The cheapest thing possible like factory or even the Teraflex 9550 VSS are good options.
It really sounds like you have a combination of issues. I would suggest taking a good account of your build, and where you want to go with it. You should have an adjustable front TB, at least a raised rear TB bracket (to help with your roll center), a non-gas charged SS (as mentioned above), and some sort of caster correction (control arm brackets are budget friendly). Try pulling off the steering stabilzer and going for a spin. See if it acts differently.
I need some help with DW. I have a TF BB 2.5" list with 35" tires. I never experienced DW until I upgraded my front springs to 2.5" lift springs and took out the front lift BB pucks. With the new springs the front was a little higher than it was before. I took it for a drive and about S* my pants when the DW started. Had to completely stop my JKU to stop the DW. I took it for an alignment and he said the front caster is too far out of range. I went home took the new front springs out and replaced them with the stock springs and BB puck and the DW went away completely. For good measure I upgraded the track-bar bolts with the 9/16th recommended bolts and did not have DW. Fast forward to a year later I replaced my front shocks with Fox 2.0 1.5 to 2.5" lift shocks and removed the BB shock mount bracket. The new shocks gave a little higher lift. Drove it and no problems at all. A few days later I installed the rear shocks with Fox 2.0 1.5 - 2.5" lift shocks and removed the rear BB shock bracket as well as swapped out the Steering dampener with the Fox 2.0 Performance Series Smooth Body IFP Stabilizer as a direct bolt on. Now I have DW again. I would like to keep the new shocks. Any recommendations?
It really sounds like you have a combination of issues. I would suggest taking a good account of your build, and where you want to go with it. You should have an adjustable front TB, at least a raised rear TB bracket (to help with your roll center), a non-gas charged SS (as mentioned above), and some sort of caster correction (control arm brackets are budget friendly). Try pulling off the steering stabilzer and going for a spin. See if it acts differently.
03-16-2018, 12:48 PM
#13
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Original posts -
Followed by this -
This thread is a hot mess. If you are netting 4" of actual lift, and you have not corrected your caster, you are probably way low. Keep in mind that caster from the factory is 4.2*. I wouldn't go as high as 6*+ myself. There's no hard and fast number, but most of us lifted guys are in that 4*-5* range. You are probably at 3* or below if you have not corrected this issue yet. Also, that steering stabilizer isn't helping your cause. That FOX is a gas charged unit. Think about how hard it is to compress a gas charged shock. Now think about sticking that on as a steering stabilizer. It is constantly trying to expand with a lot of force, which is going to be pressuring that tie rod towards the driver side. You should really use a SS that has equal resistance both expanding and collapsing. The cheapest thing possible like factory or even the Teraflex 9550 VSS are good options.
It really sounds like you have a combination of issues. I would suggest taking a good account of your build, and where you want to go with it. You should have an adjustable front TB, at least a raised rear TB bracket (to help with your roll center), a non-gas charged SS (as mentioned above), and some sort of caster correction (control arm brackets are budget friendly). Try pulling off the steering stabilzer and going for a spin. See if it acts differently.
Followed by this -
This thread is a hot mess. If you are netting 4" of actual lift, and you have not corrected your caster, you are probably way low. Keep in mind that caster from the factory is 4.2*. I wouldn't go as high as 6*+ myself. There's no hard and fast number, but most of us lifted guys are in that 4*-5* range. You are probably at 3* or below if you have not corrected this issue yet. Also, that steering stabilizer isn't helping your cause. That FOX is a gas charged unit. Think about how hard it is to compress a gas charged shock. Now think about sticking that on as a steering stabilizer. It is constantly trying to expand with a lot of force, which is going to be pressuring that tie rod towards the driver side. You should really use a SS that has equal resistance both expanding and collapsing. The cheapest thing possible like factory or even the Teraflex 9550 VSS are good options.
It really sounds like you have a combination of issues. I would suggest taking a good account of your build, and where you want to go with it. You should have an adjustable front TB, at least a raised rear TB bracket (to help with your roll center), a non-gas charged SS (as mentioned above), and some sort of caster correction (control arm brackets are budget friendly). Try pulling off the steering stabilzer and going for a spin. See if it acts differently.