My RE 3.5 SF kit has the arms extended to the rear to compensate. It only measures 1/4" longer. However when I stuff my 35's I hit the inner plastic liner at the rear of the fenderwell. I've already cut it quite a bit and am going to cut and modify the liner tomorrow.

I have noticed that spring perch and wondered about modifying it though.........

 

So the idea is to cut the original spring perch off and then weld this one on - after having rotated it to the front so as to make it more level and eliminating the bow to the rear of the spring?

Is doing this worth the effort? Does it prevent a problem caused by the spring being bowed by the stock perch?

 

thanx for all the replies,some good points here,as for moving the axle back a)I do not have enough on my upper arms b)as mentioned will hit trackbar c)right now axel position looks good for clearance and centering in wheel well when "stuffed"(that is after I break the bank and buy some tires/wheels/gears)
and yes that is correct the spring will not be perfectly straight up+down but should be able to get rid of curve which should prolong spring life and prevent spring drop out,as I look at that picture I can not believe I have not had a spring come off bottom mount.I will be doing this in near future and will post results(and anything I learn the hardway)for anyone else concearned with this
Hey W.O.L. whats your read on this as gotta be an issue with most JK's with CV style shaft,has there been any problems with "bowed"rear springs?
as for being worth the effort it really would be a quick job probably 2-3 hrs tops and little or no cost(if your able to do yourself)

 

I just installed a Clayton 3.5 lift and upgraded my driveshaft to a JE Reel CV type. To achieve proper pinion angle (I also moved the diff. back a little for tire clearance) the bottom spring perch angles back a lot so it gave me the bowed spring syndrome. I have seen the new currie spring pads but I thought I would try something else first. I made tapered pads that welded in on top of the existing pad. I made the passenger side thicker to try and eliminate the 1/4"+ of lean in the jeep. It seems to be ok so far but in the future I can see cutting the factory stuff off and installing new spring perches. Anyone here have experience welding on diff. tubes and can recommend which kind of welding rod to use, and is preheating neccesary?

 

X2, I'd like ideas on the preheating although I can't see why it should be necessary, and there is the problem with heat and grease.

Also thx guys on the comments about moving the axle back. I'm going to hace to take a look tomorrow. It would seem fairly easy to move the trackbar as well. I don't remember who but there is a company of two that make axle housings with the pumpkin at various angles so we can choose the correct housing and spring perch angle, it would just involve changing over all the components. Can you say,...... KA CHING!