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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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Anything additional needed for adding a 4" lift?

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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 04:59 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by planman
Right.

At the very least, adjustable front lower and rear upper control arms, plus a front adjustable trackbar.

You will eventually need an aftermarket front driveshaft because the stock one will not clear the exhaust crossmember.

With a '12, with anything over 2.5" lift, you will need an exhaust modification kit: http://www.teraflex.biz/jk-exhaust-s...passenger.html

Be sure to watch the video on the page of the above link. It will explain the exhaust issue and the front driveshaft issue.


Also with a 4" lift, you will want some sort of steering correction to avoid bumpsteer:
http://www.teraflex.biz/jk-wrangler-...-flip-kit.html
Thanks a heap, planman
Great video. This is becoming a bit more complicated than I thought and pricier haha.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 06:38 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Kapone
Thanks guys I don't know how anyone can own a JK and not be on this forum. I'd be in the dark with out you.

That being said can you guys give me your opinions on brands of drive shafts, etc. Should I go with the Teraflex drive shaft advertised on their site?
I just installed a TereFlex 3" Long Arm. Bought Bilsteins like you. Swapped both DS's with Coast 1310. Once the lift was installed it took me five days to get it aligned. The JK was all over the place. Felt real flighty. The long arm kit has adjustable control arms and track bar. Caster was dialed in at 4.4 degrees. After that it drove like a dream.

As all the other guys stated. You won't like how it handles if you can't make those adjustments. I know I did not.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 09:30 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Kapone
Thanks guys I don't know how anyone can own a JK and not be on this forum. I'd be in the dark with out you.

That being said can you guys give me your opinions on brands of drive shafts, etc. Should I go with the Teraflex drive shaft advertised on their site?
I would really be concerning myself with purchasing the adjustable control arms and track bar first, and then addressing the front drive shaft issue. If you dial in your caster and make everything align, you will be able to run the stock front drive shaft for a little while. Just don't disconnect your sway bar or do any wheeling that will flex too much.

Also, someone mentioned a dual steering stabilizer, you won't even need a single stabilizer if you adjust your arms and track bar perfectly, so just your stock one will suffice.

Once you are satisfied with how it drives on the road, then go ahead and grab the front shaft and start wheeling the hell out of it.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 09:36 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by SergeantChuck

I just installed a TereFlex 3" Long Arm. Bought Bilsteins like you. Swapped both DS's with Coast 1310. Once the lift was installed it took me five days to get it aligned. The JK was all over the place. Felt real flighty. The long arm kit has adjustable control arms and track bar. Caster was dialed in at 4.4 degrees. After that it drove like a dream.

As all the other guys stated. You won't like how it handles if you can't make those adjustments. I know I did not.
Ok. Wow. I'm learning a lot here. Ok so I have ordered the 4" lift, got the 1310 driveshaft (front), the 4 bilsteins 5100 and the front steering dampener.
But am I also going to need the long arm kit? I noticed the teraflex one is a bit over a grand? If so I may have to let all these parts sit in the garage til I can afford the long arm kit. :(
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 12:30 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Hskr4x4
I wouldnt buy Tom Woods driveshafts
Why? Did you have a bad experience? Too late for me as I just bought mine because I have read nothing but good things. Ill keep yall posted on my experience(hopefully not a bad one).
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 01:41 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by planman

I've been running Tom Woods driveshafts since long before JKs were available, and I've never had a problem. Plus, I've wheeled with Tom a few times, and he is a great guy. I have a rear Woods on my 2 dr.

There are a couple reports of quality control issues where u-joints were missing needle bearings for JK driveshafts. I am sure that Tom would be livid over the mistakes, and I am sure that he would make things right.

That being said, I've also run Tatton, Coast, and Rubicon Express driveshafts.
Actually, I highly doubt the joints were missing needle bearings. Seems like most of the cases were due to lack of maintenance/grease and or improper driveline angles or a combo of both.
Of course it is possible to f'k up a needle bearing when installing joints, but you'd realize that fairly quickly when you ran it.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 04:57 AM
  #17  
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Default Thanks Guys

Thank you for your help! I picked up my 2012 late last night and it is fan-friken-tastic! I was just hoping my 07 didn't break down on the way to the dealer like some of the "Christine" Jeeps did haha. Special thanks to CDN-JK and Dave at Northridge 4x4
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 09:50 AM
  #18  
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Default Rear driveshaft on 2012 ok to stay?

I just got off the phone with a shop (specializing in off road ) that will install my lift and front drive shaft because I think it's a bit more than I can handle on my own and he said that he wasn't sure off hand if I might need a rear drive shaft replacement too. I told him that the guys on here told me just replacing the front one was all I needed to get it done and that I may want to change it out later? Is that right? I am ok aren't I? haha.

Man I feel ignorant. Anyways, he also said that he thought he heard a rumor that just with the 2012's there was sometimes a computer issue when lifting it and that it caused the onboard computer to go nuts? Have you guys heard of anything like this?

Thanks in advance
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 03:24 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by planman
You are welcome.

Complete 4" setups are expensive.

That is why in my signature below there is a write-up thread linked on how to run 37s on a 2.5" lift, 1" body lift, and flat flares.
I am in the same boat...im wanting to run 38's and possibly 40's later but it is looking crazy expensive to lift regear and beef up the axles. I looked at your lift on your link but my only concern is moving the axle back. I can do pretty much anything in installation of a kit but moving axles down the frame puts me into having to hire some labor
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 04:57 PM
  #20  
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I'm in the middle of this build myself. Parts are stacking up in the garage like crazy.

Ordering the lift next (tomorrow or Monday). Money's saved kinda annoyed I didn't get home from work in time to order today. All the other stuff is in the garage except tires which I can get from local dealers really quick.
Only outstanding issue is whether or not to chromo the axle shafts. I'm thinking YES... they'll be completely apart may as well git'r'done.
And after watching the Teraflex vid I'm going to get the exhaust 'lengthener' or whatever the heck that is

Teraflex 4" LCG LA
37s (I can get them in < 1 wk from local dealer, Toyo or Nitto, will pull the trigger while it's in the shop getting stuff installed)
Slab Beadlocks
4.88 Gears
AEV ProCal
Sleeves/Gussets
1310 Driveshafts F/R
LoD Bumpers and Sliders

Really really getting impatient about it all.. watching these sweet parts in the garage and wanting it all to come together NOW. Ah well, paying as I go so it is what it is...

Last edited by BigMAK1; Nov 11, 2011 at 05:00 PM.
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