ARB locker on my X's rear d44.
#1
JK Freak
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ARB locker on my X's rear d44.
So I'm getting ready to start saving for my next project and I'm 99% sure I want to get an ARB locker for my X's rear d44. Now for my questions:
1) I have 3.73 gears right now, but plan on upgrading to 5.13's when I've got the $ to upgrade my front axle... will I be able to use the same ARB locker on my 3.73 geared rear axle and on my 5.13 geared rear axle, or will I need to buy a whole new locker when I regear?
2) Can I install this myself or do I need to pay somebody big $ to do it??? How much do you think would be fair if I have it installed at the 4x4 shop? (I can do simple things like installing a lift kit, but have little experience messing in a diff... but I'm willing to give it a shot w/ some instruction).
3) Do I need any other parts other than an ARB compressor and locker??? such as new diff housing, bearings, ect.
Thanks!
1) I have 3.73 gears right now, but plan on upgrading to 5.13's when I've got the $ to upgrade my front axle... will I be able to use the same ARB locker on my 3.73 geared rear axle and on my 5.13 geared rear axle, or will I need to buy a whole new locker when I regear?
2) Can I install this myself or do I need to pay somebody big $ to do it??? How much do you think would be fair if I have it installed at the 4x4 shop? (I can do simple things like installing a lift kit, but have little experience messing in a diff... but I'm willing to give it a shot w/ some instruction).
3) Do I need any other parts other than an ARB compressor and locker??? such as new diff housing, bearings, ect.
Thanks!
Last edited by Curiosity; 10-20-2009 at 06:54 PM.
#2
The ARB for the JK 44 is for all gears so you're good.
ARBs are VERY reliable if installed correctly. They are a disaster if installed poorly. While gears aren't exactly a black science, there are some specialty tools that help substantially (case spreader, dial indicators, setup bearings). Can you do it? Beats me. Should you try? I would probably air on the side of caution on this one. Do it wrong and you can sieze the axle at speed and do some serious damage.
A good shop should charge about $300+ for an ARB install. Its fairly time consuming, especially with the axle in the car.
ARBs are VERY reliable if installed correctly. They are a disaster if installed poorly. While gears aren't exactly a black science, there are some specialty tools that help substantially (case spreader, dial indicators, setup bearings). Can you do it? Beats me. Should you try? I would probably air on the side of caution on this one. Do it wrong and you can sieze the axle at speed and do some serious damage.
A good shop should charge about $300+ for an ARB install. Its fairly time consuming, especially with the axle in the car.
#4
#5
JK Freak
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Looks like I might be waiting a while. I don't feel comfortable locking the front diff of a d30 on 35's, especially w/ 5.13's installed on a 27 spline axle. Eventually I'll have a d60 up front w/ 5.13's, but that's $5K down the road. I'm thinking about just locking the rear until I can afford the work on the front and just paying the labor on the rear twice just so I can use the locker for the time being. The way I see it I'm paying the price of the install labor to use the locker until I've raised enough capital to finance the rest of my mods. These muddy trails in TN are brutal w/ 2 open diffs.
#6
JK Freak
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Your not too far from me here in Charlotte. You have the red clay crap there?
I have a D30 with a locker. I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one. If I break or sheer an axle, I'll upgrade to chrome moly. Then, if it continues, I'll prob upgrade the entire axle. But I really don't want to do that.. However I'm not sure I will break anything cause I don't really rock crawl. More mud and trails.
Anyway, just depends on how hard you wheel it. From you stating "trails" I wouldn't worry about it. Where you will have issues is if your rock crawling, spin the wheel with sudden traction or if you bind the wheel (where you have traction on the front and back of the wheel), this is where you will break an axle.
I have a D30 with a locker. I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one. If I break or sheer an axle, I'll upgrade to chrome moly. Then, if it continues, I'll prob upgrade the entire axle. But I really don't want to do that.. However I'm not sure I will break anything cause I don't really rock crawl. More mud and trails.
Anyway, just depends on how hard you wheel it. From you stating "trails" I wouldn't worry about it. Where you will have issues is if your rock crawling, spin the wheel with sudden traction or if you bind the wheel (where you have traction on the front and back of the wheel), this is where you will break an axle.
#7
Don't be afraid of the 30, just treat it with respect. Its been serving moderately built TJ owners well since 1996. I personally beat the crap out of my locked 30 for nearly 3 years before dropping a 60 in. That was about 20 trips over rubicon, a few trips to the hammers, and 2 trips to Moab.
Never gave me a lick of trouble. But when I went up to 38s the 60s were mandatory and proved to be a ton of fun when I dropped back down to 35s.
Never gave me a lick of trouble. But when I went up to 38s the 60s were mandatory and proved to be a ton of fun when I dropped back down to 35s.
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#8
JK Freak
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Don't be afraid of the 30, just treat it with respect. Its been serving moderately built TJ owners well since 1996. I personally beat the crap out of my locked 30 for nearly 3 years before dropping a 60 in. That was about 20 trips over rubicon, a few trips to the hammers, and 2 trips to Moab.
Never gave me a lick of trouble. But when I went up to 38s the 60s were mandatory and proved to be a ton of fun when I dropped back down to 35s.
Never gave me a lick of trouble. But when I went up to 38s the 60s were mandatory and proved to be a ton of fun when I dropped back down to 35s.
#9
4.56 with a full detroit carrier.
5.13s are pretty deep. I'd need to see a spec on tooth engagement to give you any idea if its a bad idea.... but if Superior or Motive offer them, chances are good they're fine. They aren't going to risk a bunch of failures if the gearset doesn't have ample engagement.
That's not to say they can't be broken, but that they'll most likely tolerate a reasonable amount of abuse.
5.13s are pretty deep. I'd need to see a spec on tooth engagement to give you any idea if its a bad idea.... but if Superior or Motive offer them, chances are good they're fine. They aren't going to risk a bunch of failures if the gearset doesn't have ample engagement.
That's not to say they can't be broken, but that they'll most likely tolerate a reasonable amount of abuse.
#10
JK Freak
id like to throw my 2cents in. if u do the job sperate for the gears and lockers, also remember some seals and bearings, etc can not be reused or should not be reused, so u would have to buy some parts twice, gear oil twice, labor cost twice, add it all up and u could possibly have paid for new axles and some depending on ur location, but hey its ur money, u might want to do a cost comparison to see what the diference would be, might surprise u how much. . along with the gears, there are install kits u should get that have bearings, seals, etc. as for the lockers, IMO, save up for the stainless lines and get those installed when locker is installed. the compresor depending on where u want it, u will need some type of braket for under hood app. my guy just fabd one up for me. i would spend the $25 i think, and get the daystar rocker switch panel, very clean install instead of cutting up your lower dash. i did gears and lockers front and rear at the same time. i hjave the arb frnt and rear and love em, but when it comes to mud, lockers are useless if u do not have traction. think about it. ias bad as i wanted the gears and lockers, i saved for 6 more months so i could buy and install all at one time. the gears just sat there staring at me for 6 months, it sucked but was worth it to me. take what u want out of this, but who couldnt use an xtra $600-$1000 these days.