So, I'm looking at getting my hands on a dana44 since I messed up my 30. I know a pr44 is the way to go, but I'm not made of cash. I already have some nitro sleeves and some evo c gussets, so the beefing up part is covered. I need to know what else I need though. I have my existing axle, what can x-fer from that? I plan on re-gearing the rear, since the front will need to have gears put in. Not sure where to start in terms of buying packages for that. Then I assume I'll need shafts, but I'm assuming the rotors and brakes can transfer? some pointers for my shopping cart would be awesome

 

Rotors, brakes and ball joints will transfer. I believe that's it. I just went through this same dilemma. I bought someones' nearly new empty D44 front housing and was going to build it up to replace my D30. After pricing everything out, including regearing, ARB air locker, axle sleeves, axle shafts, gussets, and install on everything, it wasn't that much more to go PR44, so I sold the housing. I know you stated you weren't looking to PR because of the cash but just make sure you add everything in and then see. Either way, good luck with your replace.

 

when you say priced out it was close to a pr44, how do you figure? I mean, a pr44 empty housing starts at 2200. you then need to add in shafts and gears. and any additional toys. I think the biggest cost savings (say you get it from northridge) is saving on the regearing cost. I guess, let me do some quick break down

dana44 housing: 300 (not really sure the value, just making up a number)
regear for a single axle: 1000
shafts: 500
beefing up: 200

so thats 2k. thats already starting below the cost of a pr44. Am I missing something? are there parts I missed? I mean theres the locker portion, but that will cost the same pr44 or dana44, pretty much just the cost of parts

 

A new Dana 44 housing will cost $1500 new and a PR44 housing will be $1950 new. I don't know where you got $300 from.

 

You can pick up empty housings pretty cheap if you don't mind buying someone's used one. Since you'll be doing new gears, lockers, sleeve and gussets anyways, you could buy someone's with 3.21 gears that they are selling. I about bought a D30 for $150, but hit troubles and let someone else buy it.

 

I would be buying a used one. For a brand new setup, if those are the prices I could see swinging the pr44, since it would literally be like 500 bucks difference

 

Not sure how you messed up your 30 but going with a stock 44 wont be much better..... save and get the pro rock. Ive seen quite a few sleeved and gusseted 44s bend.

 

Part of the difference is that he was quoting an arb locker also? To get an arb in the rubi housing, you have to get the 35sp version, which means you have to buy 35sp shafts also. (add another $400 or so if you go rcv instead of regular alloy).

If you are staying with the factory locker, plan on $1400ish for the locker alone. (so yes, you may be better off looking at the arb + shafts).

For the d30 parts that swap, you can also re-use the 32sp outer shafts (as well as the brakes/knuckles), but you will need new joints to connect to the 30sp rubi inners.

Also, the PR will come with new factory balljoints (no swapping of the old worn out ones).


And for comparison, you can get 'new' prices at discountmoparparts.net :

Bare rubi 44 front housing - $928
Front factory e-locker $1416
Complete - $2676
(+ regear + sleeve/gusset install)

 

so wait, is it possible to save some money on the initial purchase and simplly get new u-joints instead of new axle shafts? is it possible to any spline axles? what needs to change if I change splines, just the u-joints?
also, I appreciate people trying to help me find the best bang for my buck, but again to compare (i'll try a nice complete comparison)

Dana44 setup
used dana 44: 500
new 35 spline axles: 600
regear: 1000
beefing up: 200
locker (northridge 4x4 lists arb): 1000
ball joints: included
yoke: included
knuckles: included

$3300 for the used dana44

PR44
new housing: 2200
ball joints: 550
geared: 500
locker: 850
yoke (factory): 100
axles: 800
knuckles: re-use stock

$5000 for a new PR44

so yeah, its not quite double the cost, but for someone on a budget, the PR44 is no where near the cost of building up a used rubi front

 

The inner shafts are different (27sp on the d30, 30sp on the d44), the outer shafts are the same (32sp). You can re-use the 32sp outer shafts, add new joints, and buy a set of used rubi 30sp inner shafts. But if you do this, you HAVE to use the expensive rubi e-locker.
(I do not know if you can run 35sp inner shafts/arb with the stock 32sp outers - but would suggest you go with 35sp inners/outers even if it is possible).


The PR comes with factory balljoints, That $550 you listed is for the upgrade to Dynatrac bj's? So, subtract the $550 from the pr44, or if you want the upgrades instead of factory, add that $550 to both setups.

Anther consideration is that you are quoting the PR-Unlimited housing. Subtract $200 for the non-caster corrected, thinner tubed version, which is closer to the stock rubi housing configuration. (this is assuming they are still making that version?) Caster/Pinion correction and thicker tubes is a great bonus, well worth the extra $200, but for a fair comparison you should use the non-unlimited one.

Also, for a used housing, VERIFY that it is straight!!!!!!! I was quoted 5-7 hours of labor for straightening my bent 30. (Add up that labor, plus sleeves/install, plus gussets/install, plus gears/install, and I was ordering a PR.)


My PR44-U was shipped to the shop for $4300. (including tax and freight). It came with gears and arb already set up, factory bj's, alloy inner shafts. Then we added new joints and re-used the stock d30 outer shafts/knuckles/brakes. I don't remember the cost of the joints, but figure $4350 or so for comparison purposes. (or $4150 for the non-unlimited housing).