Axle shopping
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,012
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
The inner shafts are different (27sp on the d30, 30sp on the d44), the outer shafts are the same (32sp). You can re-use the 32sp outer shafts, add new joints, and buy a set of used rubi 30sp inner shafts. But if you do this, you HAVE to use the expensive rubi e-locker.
(I do not know if you can run 35sp inner shafts/arb with the stock 32sp outers - but would suggest you go with 35sp inners/outers even if it is possible).
The PR comes with factory balljoints, That $550 you listed is for the upgrade to Dynatrac bj's? So, subtract the $550 from the pr44, or if you want the upgrades instead of factory, add that $550 to both setups.
Anther consideration is that you are quoting the PR-Unlimited housing. Subtract $200 for the non-caster corrected, thinner tubed version, which is closer to the stock rubi housing configuration. (this is assuming they are still making that version?) Caster/Pinion correction and thicker tubes is a great bonus, well worth the extra $200, but for a fair comparison you should use the non-unlimited one.
Also, for a used housing, VERIFY that it is straight!!!!!!! I was quoted 5-7 hours of labor for straightening my bent 30. (Add up that labor, plus sleeves/install, plus gussets/install, plus gears/install, and I was ordering a PR.)
My PR44-U was shipped to the shop for $4300. (including tax and freight). It came with gears and arb already set up, factory bj's, alloy inner shafts. Then we added new joints and re-used the stock d30 outer shafts/knuckles/brakes. I don't remember the cost of the joints, but figure $4350 or so for comparison purposes. (or $4150 for the non-unlimited housing).
(I do not know if you can run 35sp inner shafts/arb with the stock 32sp outers - but would suggest you go with 35sp inners/outers even if it is possible).
The PR comes with factory balljoints, That $550 you listed is for the upgrade to Dynatrac bj's? So, subtract the $550 from the pr44, or if you want the upgrades instead of factory, add that $550 to both setups.
Anther consideration is that you are quoting the PR-Unlimited housing. Subtract $200 for the non-caster corrected, thinner tubed version, which is closer to the stock rubi housing configuration. (this is assuming they are still making that version?) Caster/Pinion correction and thicker tubes is a great bonus, well worth the extra $200, but for a fair comparison you should use the non-unlimited one.
Also, for a used housing, VERIFY that it is straight!!!!!!! I was quoted 5-7 hours of labor for straightening my bent 30. (Add up that labor, plus sleeves/install, plus gussets/install, plus gears/install, and I was ordering a PR.)
My PR44-U was shipped to the shop for $4300. (including tax and freight). It came with gears and arb already set up, factory bj's, alloy inner shafts. Then we added new joints and re-used the stock d30 outer shafts/knuckles/brakes. I don't remember the cost of the joints, but figure $4350 or so for comparison purposes. (or $4150 for the non-unlimited housing).
Is there a good way to verify if the shaft of a used housing is straight?
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
My shop used an alignment bar to check it. (gut the housing and slide the bar all the way in). I have seen posts where people suggest getting a good alignment done and judging it by the amount the Camber is out of spec - which won't help you with an empty housing, and I don't think it differentiates between bent housings and bent C's. I have also seen a pic of some type of a laser-level (or whatever it is called), that showed a bright red line of light along the outside of the housing. I am inclined to not trust this method.
So, find a shop with an alignment bar and have them slide it in. Very easy to see any bends at either end of the housing. (But again, that is for the housing only, it will not show bent C's).
And I agree on the unlimited housing vs the regular, just pointing it out in regards to a straight-up apples to apples comparison.
Also, I got mine about a year and a half ago, so it is possible that prices have changed some. It wouldn't be a bad idea to PM Scott (the Dynatrac rep here on this forum) and asking some questions. He is obviously biased toward the PR, but is a great source of info to help you make the decision.
http://dynatrac.com/products/jk/pro-rock44.html
The Standard Equipment section lists the factory balljoints. The heavy duty dynatrac bj's that you quoted are in the optional section.
So, find a shop with an alignment bar and have them slide it in. Very easy to see any bends at either end of the housing. (But again, that is for the housing only, it will not show bent C's).
And I agree on the unlimited housing vs the regular, just pointing it out in regards to a straight-up apples to apples comparison.
Also, I got mine about a year and a half ago, so it is possible that prices have changed some. It wouldn't be a bad idea to PM Scott (the Dynatrac rep here on this forum) and asking some questions. He is obviously biased toward the PR, but is a great source of info to help you make the decision.
http://dynatrac.com/products/jk/pro-rock44.html
The Standard Equipment section lists the factory balljoints. The heavy duty dynatrac bj's that you quoted are in the optional section.
Last edited by nthinuf; Mar 27, 2012 at 02:23 PM.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
From: timberwood park, tx
Why not build yourself some D60's from an old truck. Look at the 14 bolt for the rear, or high pinion D60 kingpin for the front. You pick those up cheap and build them for the same price as a D44, except they probably won't break on you again. You still have to buy gears and locker, but you would have to do the same on your D30/D44 at some point.
That's the route I would go.
That's the route I would go.
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,012
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
Why not build yourself some D60's from an old truck. Look at the 14 bolt for the rear, or high pinion D60 kingpin for the front. You pick those up cheap and build them for the same price as a D44, except they probably won't break on you again. You still have to buy gears and locker, but you would have to do the same on your D30/D44 at some point.
That's the route I would go.
That's the route I would go.
*edit* damn it, i knew there was a reason I had cl open looking at dana60s. a trek truss is only like, 300 bucks to go plug and play. still need to hub conversion though
Last edited by sneck; Mar 27, 2012 at 03:27 PM.