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Axle strenght

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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 11:05 AM
  #11  
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Is that too long to wait for this kind of thing or should I be able to get by without bending/breaking?


Gussets/sleeves/truss are things that you will never know if you actually need until after something is bent. Sooner is better than later, but depending on your usage, you 'should' be ok waiting a few months.
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 12:32 PM
  #12  
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I'd wait on the drive shaft. I'm still using my stock driveshafts. I put 37's on within a few weeks of purchasing my brand new JKU (2009) I went to Moab several times before finally adding sleeves and gussets. Depends how hard you drive it and how long you want to gamble but it is certainly possible to wait. I do think you can wait on the driveshaft which will give you some extra funds to finish the sleeves and gussets
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 12:47 PM
  #13  
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X2 for truss over sleeves. It adds much more strength and won't interfere with after market axle shafts you may want in the future
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 06:13 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Bhealey28
I know when trussing the welding has to be done by an extremely talented welder to prevent warping but for sleeves how critical is this. My uncle knows how to weld and used to be a helicopter mechanic so if it isn't something that you have to have specific practice doing that's a good option.
You don't need to be a world class welder, just put down some quality welds and take your time. Many people don't preload the axle. I do, it easy and helps ensure that the axle stays straight.

The hardest part of a truss is welding the cast section to the truss. Preheat the housing, weld, then post heat for gradual, even cooling. It can be done with a MIG, but if you have access to a TIG its always better for welding dissimilar metals. If you want to get fancy, get a wire with a high silicon content.

I'm one of those people that will suggest anything but hammer in sleeves, and anything else over sleeves in general. They don't do a lot in terms of gains for the amount of work needed. Go with the RSE outer sleeve kit, or better yet, purejeep or artec truss. Artec being my top choice.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 09:14 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by JKred

You don't need to be a world class welder, just put down some quality welds and take your time. Many people don't preload the axle. I do, it easy and helps ensure that the axle stays straight.

The hardest part of a truss is welding the cast section to the truss. Preheat the housing, weld, then post heat for gradual, even cooling. It can be done with a MIG, but if you have access to a TIG its always better for welding dissimilar metals. If you want to get fancy, get a wire with a high silicon content.

I'm one of those people that will suggest anything but hammer in sleeves, and anything else over sleeves in general. They don't do a lot in terms of gains for the amount of work needed. Go with the RSE outer sleeve kit, or better yet, purejeep or artec truss. Artec being my top choice.
Yah I was originally going to do the full artec system but after reading about warping thought sleeves might be better. But it sounds like ill probably go artec. You mentioned preloading the axle. What exactly is this. My best guess would be bending it the wrong way and let the warping kinda bring it back, am I even close lol. But whatever it is would I need any specialized equipment or it can be done in a garage?
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 09:50 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Bhealey28
Yah I was originally going to do the full artec system but after reading about warping thought sleeves might be better. But it sounds like ill probably go artec. You mentioned preloading the axle. What exactly is this. My best guess would be bending it the wrong way and let the warping kinda bring it back, am I even close lol. But whatever it is would I need any specialized equipment or it can be done in a garage?
You do not want to bend it the other way, just put a little pressure on it so it doesnt "walk" as you are welding. Welds shrink. It's a property of welding. What I do is weld the c gussets on first, then run a chain between both lower c's and use a bottle jack to put a little up pressure on the tube right in the center of the axle, which should be right about where the long tbe meets the housing. Sorry I don't have a picture.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 10:12 AM
  #17  
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I put an Artec truss and gussets on my D30 last winter. I am by no means an expert welder, but I just took my time and did not have a problem with any of it. I pre-heated my pumpkin as best I could before welding.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 10:54 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by JKred

You do not want to bend it the other way, just put a little pressure on it so it doesnt "walk" as you are welding. Welds shrink. It's a property of welding. What I do is weld the c gussets on first, then run a chain between both lower c's and use a bottle jack to put a little up pressure on the tube right in the center of the axle, which should be right about where the long tbe meets the housing. Sorry I don't have a picture.
I'm having trouble picturing what your saying. But basically do I just want to find a way to "hold" the tubes down on the ends and slight up pressure in the middle?
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 11:59 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Bhealey28
I'm having trouble picturing what your saying. But basically do I just want to find a way to "hold" the tubes down on the ends and slight up pressure in the middle?
This is the best pic I can find with a quick google search. Any variation of this works fine, I usually just run one chain and put the jack directly on it.

Click image for larger version

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ID:	476100
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 12:45 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by JKred

This is the best pic I can find with a quick google search. Any variation of this works fine, I usually just run one chain and put the jack directly on it.

<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=476100"/>
That's perfect ok I feel like I could probably tackle the welding but when reinstalling gears to I have to do any of the fine measurements or whatever they do or should they remain the same and it's just a straight reinstall. I have a rubi btw so lockers.
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