I agree, but a $130 for truss/ gussets is chump change compared to what we spend on the tires that cause all this havoc And if a PR44 was affordable, we'd all have one and no one (if they're smart) would ever buy another rubicon.

 

My comment was dripping with sarcasm lol...

The text in red, yup, you nailed it. If you're going to spend 2K on new tires and weels, 2-500$ more will get you an axle housing (not saying internals), to carry the load of those tires with a lot less to worry about.

And I've said it 1000 times lately. A properly armored JK44 (read truss) will be as strong if not stronger than a PR44. The only difference is you will not have caster correction. If the work can be done yourself, you can save a good about of money by sticking with a stock housing.

 

 

I hear you. But, for that percentage of JKs out there compared to the frequency of this occurring... And with someone that has a limited budget, well my opinion is gusset it and go have fun.

 

Oh I hear you too. Don't worry, I'm not one of those who think the d30 is a tooth pick if it touches dirt. Sometimes tho, I DO think people have a false sense of security with a "I have a d44, I don't need gussets/ sleeve/ truss" mindset

 

See, I see the greatest risk on those with a lower budget. From my experiences, those new to wheeling, who lack lockers or proper gearing, are usually the ones spinning tires the most, bouncing along, etc. Your more seasoned drivers generally have more built rigs and keep wheel speed down and are less prone sudden losses and gains of traction (lockers and proper gearing).

IMO, those situations are what lead to axle damage.

 

A smart person would nit buy a Rubicon...WTF really??? Lockers,D44's,electric sway bar disconnect and 4.10 gears. That is an ignorant thing to say.Unless you can't afford it, it is a great way to go...Love my 2013 JKU RUBICON!!!

 

Not to be a buzz kill but I bent both front and rear axle housings (sleeve & gusset installed with chromoly shafts) shafts) when I went to heavy Toyo 37's. In retrospect I like the truss idea and think it might have helped. Was wondering if anyone has tried the out sleeves too and if they think they helped out. One thing I've seen (2x) is the housing give out with heavy 37's. Housing breaks are pretty bad.

 

A truss is far preferable to sleeves - especially inner sleeves. The sleeves do nothing to address the weak spot where the axle tube joins the diff housing. A truss does. I'd say do it once, do it right. If you want to run 37's, either truss your stock Rubi D44 and gusset the C's, or get an aftermarket axle.

Also don't forget to address the axle shafts as well. If you are running locked 37's, you will be going through u-joints like candy on the stock shafts. Either get very good at replacing u-joints (and carry spare inner an outer shafts for when you damage an ear) or upgrade your axle shafts to cromoly (or consider RCV's).

You're probably also going to want to regear. 5.13's or 5.38's are popular choices for 37's....but the pinion gear in a set of D44 5.38 gears is a little on the small side for my tastes. I have a friend who ran 5.38's in a TJ D44 with beadlocked 38's and a stroker. His comment was that he could "lunch" his pinion gear at will just by mashing the fuel.

 

He's was saying if a prorock was cheap nobody would by a rubi but they not so ppl do buy the rubi so they can have 44's