If all I needed to do was raise the front up a bit I would do the 3/4 spacers but in my case I added over 200 lbs to the front, 100 lbs to the rear, and will eventually move up a tire size or two so I went with lift springs and longer shocks. My goal is a bit more ground clearance under the frame and better than stock articulation. I'll post a follow-up once I get the lift installed.

 

I think thats the way Ill go. with my front end set up and I'll be getting the shrockworks rear bumper with the tire carrier. As well as going up to 35's. I already have longer shocks, installed with my BB.
Thanks

 

Installed the 2" OME lift today. Definitely on the plus side of 2" - more like 3+.

Here's the way the numbers worked out for those interested in the math (all measurements are from the ground to the bottom of the rock rails):

Stock: front - 16 1/4" rear - 17 5/8"
Added bumpers and winch: front - 15 1/4" rear - 17 3/8"
After OME: front - 19 1/8" rear - 20 1/8"

Measured vertically at the wheel centerlines from ground to fender I gained 4" at the front axle and 2 1/2" at the rear axle. Keep in mind that's going from the squatted condition after bumpers and winch to lifted - I didn't measure the fenders in stock configuration.

I did the heavy front springs with the included spacers (1/2"?) installed and med/heavy rear springs (300 lb load I believe).

Before:
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After:
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Notes to those considering installing this (or any other 2-3") suspension lift:

1. Go to your local parts store and "rent" a set of coil spring compressors (Advance rents their loaner tools effectively for free - purchase and then return for a full credit). You want the heavy duty kind that latches on the OUTSIDE of the coil - don't let the teenager behind the counter give you the single-screw kind that compresses from inside the coil. All the write-ups I read on installing suspension lifts had you disconnecting the front drive shaft (auto trans skid interference) and front track bar so you could get enough room to force the taller spring into position. I figured (correctly ) that it would be much easier to compress the spring rather than disconnect everything and still be dealing with brake lines and wires.

2. Didn't need to compress the rear springs but I did disconnect the upper end of the rear track bar - no way to get around it.

3. As you lower each axle do it slowly, a little at a time, and check for brake lines or wires in danger of being stretched. Disconnect the rear brake lines from the frame, remove the parking brake cables from the wire brackets directly above the axle, and work the cable tie keepers out of their holes on the ESP wiring (one at each wheel and one on the center chunk - ease it down slowly and it will become obvious what needs to come loose to let the axle droop. Lastly, disconnect the axle breather tube at the axle - good place for a hose clamp when you put it back on.


Driving impression so far: much better than overloaded Rubi springs but I can see how it might be a bit harsh if you don't have the added weight that I do. Haven't had it offroad yet - I'm hoping that it will settle a bit after twisting it up in the woods.


Things that I find rather strange: the shocks are only about 1" longer than stock Rubi's at full extension, the kit doesn't include bump stop extensions or brake line brackets or even longer swaybar links. I'm hoping the engineers at ARB/OME are correct!


The only thing left is to install the FT adjustable track bars once they get here. You don't have to recenter the axles but if you're like me, just knowing that your front axle is offset 3/8" one way and your rear is out 3/8" the opposite side will eventually do this...

 

Great write up... This is the kit I am hoping to go with when my JK finally arrives, I will probably be running on the stock rubber until it wears out, so it's nice to see the pics in that configuration.

 

Nice write up, I did some days ago the same way like you (flashback ), but with LD springs, which gave me exactly 2". My shocks, which are same as your´s, were around 1,5" longer than the stock sahara, BUT compressed some millimeters shorter than stock. So no bumpstops needed

That´s why I like OME, ever well engineered. Had them on the TJ and regarding the shocks length it was the same story.

 

Didn't think to check the collapsed length - makes sense now. I figured there was a reason behind it after all the good things I've heard about OME. Thanks for pointing that out!

 

Another way is to remove the spring all together and let the axle rest on its bump stops. Easy to do when you are change out your springs or adding spacers.

 

CJK, if you get a spare minute is there any chance I could get you to measure the height at the roof line for me?

Thanks

 

Right at 74" with the hard top, the soft top would probably be a bit higher at the bows.

 

Thank you sir...