Beefing up axle????
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: Eagle Mountain, UT
not sure where I'm wrong becuse isn't your price less than $600 and didn't the OP state he was looking at $2,500 which to me sounded high and will stand behind my comment to get more bids. Again I don't know what parts the OP was looking at using because he didn't listed them. So please inlighten me on were I'm wrong.
JK Freak
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 684
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, IL
Originally Posted by ronin2120
I am leaning towards Offroad Evo's kit but my dilemma is that I don't trust any of the local shops in my area. The nearest shop would be down near Albany which is about 3 hours away. Here is my plan I have already talked to an offroad shop in Moab so that while I'm there in August I can take the Jeep in and have them take care of the axle and only lose one day on the trails. I'll look at the chromoly shafts as well.
Also for WOL comment search for the current thread on a cracked 44 with sleeves installed. You will find his comments in that thread and also learn some advice on proper roset weld spacing for the sleeve.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: West Valley, UT
Rusty,s Dana 30 gusset $69.99
Nitro sleeve $100.00
$100 to weld the gusset, gusset welds to entire unit - inner C's, tubing, and housing.
Case of beer to press fit the sleeves.
$269.00 sleeved and gusset installed!
Obviously less then $600.
Nitro sleeve $100.00
$100 to weld the gusset, gusset welds to entire unit - inner C's, tubing, and housing.
Case of beer to press fit the sleeves.
$269.00 sleeved and gusset installed!
Obviously less then $600.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 3
From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
OP, in order to get good advice, you'll need to provide a bit more information about your intended use.
What size of tires do you run?
Are you going to go to bigger tires?
I'm assuming your front diff is locked?
What sort of terrain do you use your rig for?
Do you rely on finesse when you're wheeling, or is it all about the skinny pedal?
So...with regards to strengthening an axle, there are two things to worry about. The first is "Can the axle handle the power that I am sending to it, and transmitting that power to the ground via the wheels and tires?" The second is "Will the axle handle the weight of the Jeep without bending?"
The first thing is determined by your axle shafts and U-joints. You have essentially three choices:
Stock shafts and U-joints - inexpensive, weakest of the options.
Cromo shafts and upgraded u-joints - more expensive, stronger.
RCV's with birfield joints instead of u-joints - most expensive, arguably strongest (cuz this here's the interwebs and someone's ALWAYS gonna argue).
RCV's also give you the benefit of smooth and clean power transmission no matter what you do with your steering wheel. U-joints will always have some crow hop if you are right over steering all the way left or right.
The second thing is mostly determined by your axle tube and the C's.
#1. Gusset the C's - it's a VERY cheap upgrade.
#2. If you choose to strengthen the tube, you have 3 options:
-Internal sleeves - cheapest, smallest strength gain
-External sleeves - moderate price, good strength gain
-Full-width external truss - most expensive, HUGE strength gain....but you had better have a welder that you trust with your life if you want to go this route. If he doesn't do it properly, your axle will be smiling....whcih will probably make you frown.
What size of tires do you run?
Are you going to go to bigger tires?
I'm assuming your front diff is locked?
What sort of terrain do you use your rig for?
Do you rely on finesse when you're wheeling, or is it all about the skinny pedal?
So...with regards to strengthening an axle, there are two things to worry about. The first is "Can the axle handle the power that I am sending to it, and transmitting that power to the ground via the wheels and tires?" The second is "Will the axle handle the weight of the Jeep without bending?"
The first thing is determined by your axle shafts and U-joints. You have essentially three choices:
Stock shafts and U-joints - inexpensive, weakest of the options.
Cromo shafts and upgraded u-joints - more expensive, stronger.
RCV's with birfield joints instead of u-joints - most expensive, arguably strongest (cuz this here's the interwebs and someone's ALWAYS gonna argue).
RCV's also give you the benefit of smooth and clean power transmission no matter what you do with your steering wheel. U-joints will always have some crow hop if you are right over steering all the way left or right.
The second thing is mostly determined by your axle tube and the C's.
#1. Gusset the C's - it's a VERY cheap upgrade.
#2. If you choose to strengthen the tube, you have 3 options:
-Internal sleeves - cheapest, smallest strength gain
-External sleeves - moderate price, good strength gain
-Full-width external truss - most expensive, HUGE strength gain....but you had better have a welder that you trust with your life if you want to go this route. If he doesn't do it properly, your axle will be smiling....whcih will probably make you frown.
JK Newbie
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: 48312
RCV Ultimate Dana 44 JK Rubicon Front Axle Set $1,100
Rock Slide Engineering Bombshell Kit $320
******* Suspension Inner C Upper & Lower Gusset Kit $65
$1,485 and you do the welding or $300 to do all weld up
can we said beef-up front axle
OR
Dynatrac ProRock 44 Housing $2,000 plus new axle shafts (and reuse the brakes, steering and hubs parts)
OR
Currie JK ROCKJOCK III 1 Ton Frontend Unit Bolt in $5,199.95
Rock Slide Engineering Bombshell Kit $320
******* Suspension Inner C Upper & Lower Gusset Kit $65
$1,485 and you do the welding or $300 to do all weld up
can we said beef-up front axle
OR
Dynatrac ProRock 44 Housing $2,000 plus new axle shafts (and reuse the brakes, steering and hubs parts)
OR
Currie JK ROCKJOCK III 1 Ton Frontend Unit Bolt in $5,199.95
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,046
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lewis, WA
Thanks for the insight W Squared. I know I am on the high side with my cost estimate but when dealing with the wife if I tell her a high price then come in under cost she's a lot happier.
Right now I am running 35's with a front locker. I like dirt trails and rocks prefer to stay out of the mud but I also won't avoid it. I choose my lines and I'm not afraid to winch myself out or over rather then mash the skinny pedal. For me I enjoy driving to the trails and then driving home. Maybe down the road four or five years I'd like to move up to 37's or bigger but for now I am content.
The only reason I was leaning towards the RCV's was because I read that you have a smooth power transfer without the hop when turned sharp in either direction. I'm going to gusset the C's for sure but I hadn't planned on trussing the entire axle.
Right now I am running 35's with a front locker. I like dirt trails and rocks prefer to stay out of the mud but I also won't avoid it. I choose my lines and I'm not afraid to winch myself out or over rather then mash the skinny pedal. For me I enjoy driving to the trails and then driving home. Maybe down the road four or five years I'd like to move up to 37's or bigger but for now I am content.
The only reason I was leaning towards the RCV's was because I read that you have a smooth power transfer without the hop when turned sharp in either direction. I'm going to gusset the C's for sure but I hadn't planned on trussing the entire axle.