Ok Here is my Dilema, With the 3.5 Clayton lift on a 2door it has been said that the Tranny Skid needs to be modified to clear the Drive Line. Now is there any manufactures out there that are making after Market Skids for the 2doors with lifts? Perferbly through Northridge or Rockhard or a sponsor of the the Forum.
Dave do you have any suggestions? I really like the ones that Rock Hard has but it doesn't specify if it will work or nor or need to be modified?? Eddie??? How about you?? Recomendations or suggestions?. I will get my Buddy John to take a picture of it if needed but I do know it has been said on here before. I would also like the complete kit engine tranny and transfer and gas if possible
Any suggestions are welcome...

 

I just ordered the 3 piece set from Rock Hard. They are modifying it to fit my RE Longarm. You might want to call James (308.750.4690) to see if he has any experience with your build.

Check out the Trek belly pan too. It looks awesome!

 

I dont know why having a lift would make that much of a difference, I mean the driveshaft will move down but not that much...but if for some reason your driveshaft didn't clear the tranny skid, nothing a little grinder couldnt fix in a few minutes...

If your 2dr is anything like mine, I think your cross member will get in the way before a tranny skid will.

My recommendation would be just get it and shave off the edge a little if you need to. I can't imagine the tranny skid getting in the way that much. As you can see from the above system, its close, but if your driveshaft is moving anywhere near that skid you have bigger problems.

 

I just had a little bit grinded off the transmission skid where the shaft droops. I have JE Reel shafts, so it might be more of an issue with stock shafts, but the JE Reels were just touching a bit.

 

I have JE reels as well and being thats what I was told so I was going with that it may very well be the Cross Member for the tranny and not the Skid. It is a 2dr Sahara with the Clayton 3.5 lift on it. So far the Front has only been lifted as the rear adj. track bar is on its way from Northridege, my neighboor is the one doing all the work on the JK while I am over here and not there. I asked him to take pics so that way I can see a better picture of things and able to see what is happening. Trying to describe something in an email or over the phone can be quite difficult sometimes.

 

I have the skid row engine and evap skid plates. I love them. Changing oil is a bit messy, but otherwise they are great.

 

Yo Joe, How much does all that way???

 

Don't know why the Rock Hard wouldn't work with anything other than a long arm. I have an aftermarket front drive shaft, but the stock should clear just fine (except for when the boot hits the transmission). No difference between the two door and the four door for that.

Here's a shot of my Fumoto valve tucked up behind the Rock Hard skid. Get the nipple version. Just connect a 3/8" hose and open the valve. If you want peace of mind that the valve will not accidentally open, just put a hose clamp on (like in the photo).

 

I have run all my airplanes with quick drain valves and they get abused (vibration and heat) a lot more than your Jeep would. Plus they appear to be much more vunerable than the Fumoto one you picture and they have NEVER leaked or come open. Pretty slick to have one on a land rig....never thought of that.

 

If you look at the rock hard, you will have no problem clearing the driveshaft. It is actually built for max flex and I drooped my axle enough to put in 4" superlift springs without having to worry about it hitting the crossmember. Actually, they have you take off the tranny crossmember when you put on the engine skid.