Best driveshafts for the $$$
03-18-2011, 07:10 AM
#1
JK Enthusiast
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Best driveshafts for the $$$
I have a 2007 2 DR with a 4" lift that is a daily driver. I have been running this lift for about the last 18,000 miles. I noticed some time ago that both of my driveshaft boots are slinging grease. I am afraid that if I run these shafts too much longer that one of them are bound to fail. I am looking for input as to what driveshafts I should consider for replacement. Money is tight, but I want to make the right investment. I can do the swap myself, but don't know what else I need besides the shafts to make the conversion to universal joint shafts. Also, being that I don't use 4 wheel drive often, is it as important to replace the front driveshaft now or can it be done later.
03-18-2011, 07:38 AM
#2
JK Super Freak
If both ur shafts are spitting grease I would go ahead and replace both. U will need rear upper control arms to adjust rear pinion angle. I have Tom Woods but prob would have gotten Coast if I didnt need it them ASAP. Quadratec got it to me next day with regular shipping, Northridge I wuold have had to pay for faster shipping and it still would have taken a few days since it is so far away from me. My DS was about to fail, I was reduced to driving less than 40 mph to make it last until I got the shaft. I am happy with tom woods so far, seems like very good quality. Coast has better u-joints from what I hear though.
03-18-2011, 07:58 AM
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Just put on the Coast 1310 front last night. I ordered from Dave at Northridge on Tuesday, it was delivered Thursday and I put it on that night. There are some great install writeups on this forum. 
03-18-2011, 09:01 AM
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03-18-2011, 09:09 AM
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on a related note...
what exactly is the issue that folks run into with driveshafts after a suspension lift? i've done a lot of reading on it, some say the boot comes in contact with the tranny and/or skidplate during flex and that tears the boot. ive read elsewhere though that its the extreme angle that you create by lifting that does the driveshaft in.
when you buy an aftermarket driveshaft, do you get one of longer length (to correct the angle) or of slimmer design (to prevent the boot from getting torn)? i've heard both of this things, too. whats the deal?
what exactly is the issue that folks run into with driveshafts after a suspension lift? i've done a lot of reading on it, some say the boot comes in contact with the tranny and/or skidplate during flex and that tears the boot. ive read elsewhere though that its the extreme angle that you create by lifting that does the driveshaft in.
when you buy an aftermarket driveshaft, do you get one of longer length (to correct the angle) or of slimmer design (to prevent the boot from getting torn)? i've heard both of this things, too. whats the deal?
03-18-2011, 10:33 AM
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what exactly is the issue that folks run into with driveshafts after a suspension lift? i've done a lot of reading on it, some say the boot comes in contact with the tranny and/or skidplate during flex and that tears the boot. ive read elsewhere though that its the extreme angle that you create by lifting that does the driveshaft in.
when you buy an aftermarket driveshaft, do you get one of longer length (to correct the angle) or of slimmer design (to prevent the boot from getting torn)? i've heard both of this things, too. whats the deal?
when you buy an aftermarket driveshaft, do you get one of longer length (to correct the angle) or of slimmer design (to prevent the boot from getting torn)? i've heard both of this things, too. whats the deal?
On manuals, the front driveshaft can contact the exhaust, which can bash it in.
On both, the one you want to watch out for is the little boot at the tcase end losing grease. The steeper angles from a lift will cause this boot to bind/pinch, which will wear through it and cause the loss of grease. It will eventually dry out, make noise, and then seize. This joint is not repairable, so you will need to replace the entire shaft.
The rear shaft has the same issue with the joints. Tear, lose grease, get noisy, seize.
Aftermarket shafts will be sized for the lift. They are narrower and stronger. And they use a different style of joint that can handle the angles better. And unlike the stock shafts, the aftermarket double cardans are grease-able and the joints are replaceable if they fail. The downside is that they need different pinion angles than stock shafts, so you will need adjustable control arms also.
Last edited by nthinuf; 03-18-2011 at 10:36 AM.
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03-18-2011, 11:43 AM
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So, with all that said, could I, for about a month, run the stock shafts with a 5.5 lift? I am ordering some aftermarket for front and rear, but wouldn't mind going ahead and getting this thing up in the air in the meantime. Just waiting on the funds for the shafts which should be soon.
03-18-2011, 11:49 AM
#9
JK Super Freak
With a 4 door w/no off road u may be ok but that is a pretty big lift. Only do it if ur jeep isnt ur DD in case they go and u dont have money to upgrade for a few weeks.