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Blown U-Joint in MOAB on Hamburger Hill. Question about replacement.

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Old 10-19-2016, 06:55 AM
  #11  
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Well that sucks! Anyone know if the Ten Factory chromo shafts are bigger and would rub with the TF bj's?
Old 10-20-2016, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by silverbullet88
Well that sucks! Anyone know if the Ten Factory chromo shafts are bigger and would rub with the TF bj's?
I have the Ten Factory shafts with TF ball joints and it just barely misses it. I have been running them for about 3-4 months and have wheeled a few times, no issues yet.
Old 10-20-2016, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by w0bbles
I have the Ten Factory shafts with TF ball joints and it just barely misses it. I have been running them for about 3-4 months and have wheeled a few times, no issues yet.
Good to hear. Thanks
Old 10-29-2016, 04:12 AM
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After closer inspection and disassembly, I found that in the process of the joint breaking and the U joint ends hitting each other caused the TF ball joints to be completely unseated. The top joint was pushed out over 1/8 inch and the bottom joint was driven down so that the top of the joint was even with the surface of the C.

So, I have removed the joints because they had to be replaced anyhow. I will be welding on some gussets and installing new Synergy ball joints. I am also going with the chrome molly shafts instead of RCV's.

I wanted to improve the strength, but couldn't yet justify UD60's.

I was wondering what I might be able to get for the axle if I was to try to sell it. What do you think? Maybe $3k

Rubicon Dana 44
5.38 gears with about 2000 miles on them
a spare set of original 4.10 gears
Teraflex big breaks with dual piston calipers and spare set of pads
Chrome Molly shafts
Synergy Ball joints
Upper C Gussets
Old 10-29-2016, 06:28 AM
  #15  
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You could always try and get 3k out of it but I think around 2k is more realistic from pricing that I have seen. The axle itself is basically worthless and your upgrades are what people are buying.
Old 10-29-2016, 08:21 AM
  #16  
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Ouch that sucks. I see that happening sometimes. Is the ball joints being destroyed by the axle shaft really that common?
Old 10-29-2016, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by silverbullet88
Ouch that sucks. I see that happening sometimes. Is the ball joints being destroyed by the axle shaft really that common?
It probably isn't that common for folks that remove the axle shafts immediately on the trail. However I still had about a mile to go with no other way out after hamburger hill. There were 3 more significant obstacles I had to surmount with no bypass available. I did those in 3 wheel drive and some much needed winching. I should have pulled the shaft there, but it was getting late and I didn't want to be stuck there over night.

So I went back to look at the photos that I took. They were taken after getting it back on the trailer. The first shows the gouging that the U-Joint did to the top of the lower joint. It looks to me like it is still mostly seated, but maybe a little at an angle. In the second picture you can see that the top joint is slightly ejected and the grease boot is completely compressed by the knuckle.

Close-up Lower Ball Joint.
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Upper Ball Joint.
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When I was disassembling it, I noted that the lower joint was even further displaced and the top of the joint was completely flush with the C. It didn't stick up at all into the C. What I am having trouble figuring out is how the lower joint moved between the time that I put it on the trailer in MOAB and getting it in my garage in VA.

Oh well, live and learn.
Old 10-29-2016, 09:51 AM
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Cant go Wrong with Chro-mo's I have all 4 from G2. No Complaints and no breaks.... yet...
Old 10-29-2016, 10:06 AM
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Lessons Learned:

#1. Don't wheel by yourself. Granted, my son and I weren't completely alone. There were a few bikers on the trail at the same time and they did offer to help if we needed it. That in itself was very reassuring. But, if we had another vehicle, I probably would have used the winch on this obstacle before trying it several times. Also with just one Jeep, the remaining trail was much more "Do it or spend the night in the dark and cold". So being with other capable vehicles really gives you more options when you are in a pickle.

#2. Manual locking hubs would have been great. They would have saved me a set of ball joints and time to replace them. However manual hubs aren't cheap.

#3. Take your time and fix the problem before any more damage is done.

#4. Carry a spare axle. I don't know if this will ever happen again, but from here out I will probably have a spare on hand.

#5. Keep your recovery gear where you can always get to it. No matter what... In the photo below you can see that my Jeep is basically sitting on the spare tire. I keep all my gear in the back in one of those Smittybuilt security storage drawers. When I got out of the Jeep to survey the situation after killing my axle, I instantly saw the problem. I couldn't get into the back to get my recovery gear unless I could open the tailgate. Normally I would have winched myself up the hill, but since I couldn't do that I had to grind on it some more to get down from my perch on top the rock.

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#6. If there is a chance you might be stuck in the cold, pack for that possibility. Mind you, I have a well provisioned emergency pack in the Jeep, I have those mylar thermal blankets, fire starter, water, medical supplies, and lots of other SHTF supplies, but none of it would have been appropriate for a situation like "Oh well, lets just get some rest and fix it in the morning." Two sleeping bags, a couple wool hats, and some coffee for the AM might have been kind of fun.
Old 10-29-2016, 10:16 AM
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I'm with you on all that. I carry a small toolbox in the back with all my OEM Shafts in the back. My father in-law told me years ago its always good to have a pair of sweats and a Rain proof jacket in every vehicle you drive just incase you get cold, wet or both you can change into a dry set of sweat pants/sweat shirt and throw a Jacket on to stay dry and warm. Even if you live in a warm region of the US it will still get cold at night. I also have RotoPax containers for extra fuel and water.



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