Breaking bolts on FT 3" Ultimate
We installed the FT 3" Ultimate lift on my 08 4dr Sahara, and took it out on some old mine roads in Colorado. It rides amazing, the install wasn't too bad only causing one broken toe, misc bruises and scratches, and one black eye (from a control arm falling on someones head).
My question is with the sway bar link disconnects on the front. We checked all the torques after ~100mi, and nothing appeared to be loose and definitely not over as I'm picky at that. On the drive home to Arkansas, at around 300mi I noticed the passenger side would bounce like crazy after hitting a bump. So I pulled over, and noticed right away that the bolt holding the disconnect to the sway bar had snapped, so I was disco'd doing 70mph down I-70. Is it normal for this hardware to be flimsy? All of that hardware on both sides, seems to be on the cheap side, compared to even the stock hardware.
Looking at Northridge, I can replace both sides with something better, but the Ultimate kit was $2000 already, and buying beefier disconnects for 99.9% daily driving seems somewhat ridiculous. But on the other hand I think I've lost my trust for the flimsy tubes.
So this isn't a question only on why the bolt would break, but also if anybody else has noticed the sway bar disconnect being flimsy and prone to damage.
I'll take pictures if you need, but 14 hour drives and going back to work, when we're out of coffee is causing a lack of motivation.
My question is with the sway bar link disconnects on the front. We checked all the torques after ~100mi, and nothing appeared to be loose and definitely not over as I'm picky at that. On the drive home to Arkansas, at around 300mi I noticed the passenger side would bounce like crazy after hitting a bump. So I pulled over, and noticed right away that the bolt holding the disconnect to the sway bar had snapped, so I was disco'd doing 70mph down I-70. Is it normal for this hardware to be flimsy? All of that hardware on both sides, seems to be on the cheap side, compared to even the stock hardware.
Looking at Northridge, I can replace both sides with something better, but the Ultimate kit was $2000 already, and buying beefier disconnects for 99.9% daily driving seems somewhat ridiculous. But on the other hand I think I've lost my trust for the flimsy tubes.
So this isn't a question only on why the bolt would break, but also if anybody else has noticed the sway bar disconnect being flimsy and prone to damage.
I'll take pictures if you need, but 14 hour drives and going back to work, when we're out of coffee is causing a lack of motivation.
What does the head of the supplied hardware look like? If it's metric is it stamped with number like 10.9 or 8.8? If it's SAE how many lines are on the head? That will tell you the grade of the bolts. The stock sway bar end link bolts are metric 10.9 which is a high strength bolt.
Sponsoring Manufacturer
Hanson/PUREJEEP Representative
Hanson/PUREJEEP Representative
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 748
Likes: 0
From: Bakersfield, CA
Sir,
I am sorry for your problem but I it is unlikely the bolt broke. The way the sway bar is made we use a 1/4" bail pin. The pin would break way before a grade 5 12mm bolt. Sir I would ask that you check the remaining bolts and make sure that you used the supplied stover nut for the installation. These nuts are designed to lock in place as long as there is a thread of the bolt coming thru the backside of the nut, they should not come off. I suggest you check all of your hardware. I am very sorry for your problem and will be happy to help you in any way I can. Go get a cup of Joe and know I am here to help. Feel free to give me a call, my number is in my sig.
I am sorry for your problem but I it is unlikely the bolt broke. The way the sway bar is made we use a 1/4" bail pin. The pin would break way before a grade 5 12mm bolt. Sir I would ask that you check the remaining bolts and make sure that you used the supplied stover nut for the installation. These nuts are designed to lock in place as long as there is a thread of the bolt coming thru the backside of the nut, they should not come off. I suggest you check all of your hardware. I am very sorry for your problem and will be happy to help you in any way I can. Go get a cup of Joe and know I am here to help. Feel free to give me a call, my number is in my sig.
Thanks for your quick reply. I know that the nut was the issue on the driver's side, as I had to re-torque it on my drive back. But on the passenger side, the bolt did break. The hole that holds the pin is wallowed out a fair amount on the top. I didn't check the bottom.
I replaced the bolt with one from Tractor Supply, which is actually a stronger bolt, and it's holding fine now.
I'm not really looking to get anything out of this issue, other than feedback on whether these discos will hold up long term. After 1000mi of mostly highway, I can see where the release pins are wallowing out the holes. Also the way the bolts and nuts sit right up against the rubber bushings is going to cause some issues in the future. Really, if it's better to just get a set of JKS Quicker disconnects, that's what I'll do.
I'd really like to know if anybody else is running these ones, and if they have issues with them, and what they have done to remedy it.
To two of the comments above, bolts do break sometimes. And it may have just been a defective bolt. I'm not blaming FT, I'm looking at what I think may be a weak point in an otherwise perfect lift kit. I couldn't be happier with this lift, I just want to make sure it lasts as long as possible.
I replaced the bolt with one from Tractor Supply, which is actually a stronger bolt, and it's holding fine now.
I'm not really looking to get anything out of this issue, other than feedback on whether these discos will hold up long term. After 1000mi of mostly highway, I can see where the release pins are wallowing out the holes. Also the way the bolts and nuts sit right up against the rubber bushings is going to cause some issues in the future. Really, if it's better to just get a set of JKS Quicker disconnects, that's what I'll do.
I'd really like to know if anybody else is running these ones, and if they have issues with them, and what they have done to remedy it.
To two of the comments above, bolts do break sometimes. And it may have just been a defective bolt. I'm not blaming FT, I'm looking at what I think may be a weak point in an otherwise perfect lift kit. I couldn't be happier with this lift, I just want to make sure it lasts as long as possible.
Sir,
I am sorry for your problem but I it is unlikely the bolt broke. The way the sway bar is made we use a 1/4" bail pin. The pin would break way before a grade 5 12mm bolt. Sir I would ask that you check the remaining bolts and make sure that you used the supplied stover nut for the installation. These nuts are designed to lock in place as long as there is a thread of the bolt coming thru the backside of the nut, they should not come off. I suggest you check all of your hardware. I am very sorry for your problem and will be happy to help you in any way I can. Go get a cup of Joe and know I am here to help. Feel free to give me a call, my number is in my sig.
I am sorry for your problem but I it is unlikely the bolt broke. The way the sway bar is made we use a 1/4" bail pin. The pin would break way before a grade 5 12mm bolt. Sir I would ask that you check the remaining bolts and make sure that you used the supplied stover nut for the installation. These nuts are designed to lock in place as long as there is a thread of the bolt coming thru the backside of the nut, they should not come off. I suggest you check all of your hardware. I am very sorry for your problem and will be happy to help you in any way I can. Go get a cup of Joe and know I am here to help. Feel free to give me a call, my number is in my sig.
Last edited by jhagerman; May 27, 2009 at 07:22 AM.
Sponsoring Manufacturer
Hanson/PUREJEEP Representative
Hanson/PUREJEEP Representative
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 748
Likes: 0
From: Bakersfield, CA
I am glad your problem is solved. Our swaybar links have a metal sleeve in them that take most of the abuse so the rubber doesn't have too, but it is important that the rubber makes contact as this keeps the slop out of the system, this is common with most bushings. If you have further problems let me know, I am glad you are happy with your lift.


