Budget Drive Shafts
11-29-2008, 09:10 PM
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Budget Drive Shafts
Has anyone used a Tatton drive shaft or any of the other "budget" shafts available on eBay?
They look to be very well built and a 1310 double cardin style drive shaft goes for about $180 shipped.
Does anybody think this would be worth trying out or should I just pay the $350 or more for a RE or comparable DS from a catalog.
They look to be very well built and a 1310 double cardin style drive shaft goes for about $180 shipped.
Does anybody think this would be worth trying out or should I just pay the $350 or more for a RE or comparable DS from a catalog.
11-29-2008, 10:02 PM
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I say go for it. You could be a trend starter. That is what I like to do then I can come back and comment if they are good or bad. Spend the money and it could pan out to be a heck of a deal!
11-29-2008, 10:56 PM
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I did some searching on the net, and the tatton shafts get some really nice reviews. I am gonna be on the hunt for shafts, so if you order them, let me know how they turn out.
11-30-2008, 04:41 AM
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i've been looking at the same D/S's, i emailed them and they can make them and ship them with in 24 hours. sounds good just havent pulled the trigger yet. they look great on the site.
11-30-2008, 05:27 AM
#5
Don't forget the warranty and customer service questions. If something's going to go while on the trail, the drive shaft is way up there on the list. You want a company that has your back with these.
11-30-2008, 06:20 AM
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yeah, i'm gonna have to agree with this. in the end, the price difference really isn't that much and if it means you will get warranty/customer service, it just might be worth the extra cash to do things right the first time.
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11-30-2008, 08:51 AM
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I think the questions to ask is what is the wall thickness of the shafts?
14 gauge (.083 inch wall thickness) is ideal but 16 gauge (.065 inch wall thickness) is acceptable for built up rigs.
Another is what type of tubing do they use?
The common standard is CREW (Cold Rolled Electric Welded) tubing or aluminum. The ideal type of tubing is DOM (Drawn Over Mandril) tubing which can be thin and strong at the same time but isn't to costly.
Whats the runout on the slip yoke on the drive shaft?
There should only be about .007 of an inch of run out (lateral movement in the slip yoke) on a rear drive shaft and about .012 on the front. More run out means more vibration.
As for the spicer 1310 series u joints they are the best for 35" tires and lower if you go above that then 1330 or 1350 series u joints are recomended.
14 gauge (.083 inch wall thickness) is ideal but 16 gauge (.065 inch wall thickness) is acceptable for built up rigs.
Another is what type of tubing do they use?
The common standard is CREW (Cold Rolled Electric Welded) tubing or aluminum. The ideal type of tubing is DOM (Drawn Over Mandril) tubing which can be thin and strong at the same time but isn't to costly.
Whats the runout on the slip yoke on the drive shaft?
There should only be about .007 of an inch of run out (lateral movement in the slip yoke) on a rear drive shaft and about .012 on the front. More run out means more vibration.
As for the spicer 1310 series u joints they are the best for 35" tires and lower if you go above that then 1330 or 1350 series u joints are recomended.
Here's a few quotes from the listing -"WE CAN BUILD ANY SIZE DRIVE SHAFT... WE HAVE 2 1/4" 250 WALL D.O.M. TUBING AND 3" 120 WALL TUBING FOR EXTREME USE... AND USE SPICER EXTREME SOLID U-JOINTS... LIFETIME GUARANTEE ON WELDS... HEAVY DUTY 7" FULL TRAVEL SPLINES NOT JUST 3" ON THE END..."
Their feedback is over 500 and all positive. Looks like all of the sales are for drive shafts and many of them for Jeeps...
I'll order one this week and let everyone know how it holds up after I try it out!
