We use Crown Alloy 44 30 when mig welding to cast. Haven't found anything that does as good of a job. It is also the only MIG wire approved by Nissan for welding to cast (random, but I know the weld PhD there). You technically don't even have to pre-heat, but I shoot for 200 degrees and then some post heat. Welds really nice, just don't inhale a fume or you're toast, haha.

https://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.c...-spool-rs44-1f

 

That's actually the wire I have a small spool of in my garage and the one I knew of. The picture I posted was just the first one I clicked off google. The crown wire does weld extremely nice. I've used it on a few projects so far, pretty handy to have around.

 

Agree. Only downside is over $80 for 2lbs, haha. Takes a little getting used to as it doesn't sound or burn like normal wire. You really have to get in there and tell the puddle what to do.

 

I know lol i just know it was a heated topic lol

 

 

To do a truss properly the axle should be removed from the vehicle and stripped down completely. You might be able to get away with leaving the pinion installed, but after welding is completed the pinion seal should be replaced. The housing should be in some way jigged to prevent warpage during the welding process. Once the welding is completed the axle shaft seals should be replaced before the carrier is re-installed. The housing can be reasembled in or out of the rig, with the ring gear backlash checked. Once back into the vehicle and reassembled, compression travel needs to be checked, with bump stop generally increased to ensure the truss doesn't hit the oil pan. In some cases the truss has to be ground or cut away to prevent this interference. Etc.

Ok, so, how much does all that cost vs just getting an aftermarket housing, swapping everything over and taking your buddies to lunch on part of the money you recouped after selling the stock housing? YMMV....

 

http://www.drivingline.com/articles/...mall-housings/

 

He makes cool stuff, but nothing for the JK44. The JK44 gears are pretty similar in strength to D50 as well.

 

Here is a comparison between the factory Rubi 44 and the ProRock 44. There really is no comparison. 3" tube vs 2.5" tube, .5" wall thickness. All the bracketry and mounts, as well as the axle "C's" are massive. Anyone who thinks welding a truss and gussets on the factory housing will compare with the ProRock in strength is fooling themselves.

For those with Rubicons running a 37" or smaller tire, the ProRock 44 is a great upgrade that won't cost you $5k. You could swap all the factory internals and locker into the $2200 housing and be done, but obviously is a good time to upgrade the knuckles, axleshafts, and brakes.

 

There is definitely a comparison!

The comparison is value vs need. Your scenario has the Rubicon guy swapping housings out of pocket maybe $1700 ($2200 PR cost - $500 selling old housing = $1700 out of pocket).

The Artec armor kit (Truss, Gussets, Control Arm Skids, Trackbar Bracket) sells for $300. Add a heavy duty diff cover like riddler for $100. So $400 total parts to "uparmor" a Rubi 44. This guy has an extra $1300 in his pocket which can buy some RCV shafts and a lot of gas and beer. I would take a armored and RCV shaft Rubi axle over a PR with stock shafts any day and twice on Sunday.

If the same can't weld he's out of pocket maybe $800-$1k less than buying a PR housing, depending on where he is located and what welding costs. That's still a nice chunk of change.

The trussed housing isn't as strong as a PR but do all buyers need it need to be? Do they need the added castor? Maybe, but maybe not. Obviously you pay more for the PR but do you need that and what's your time and $$ worth to you. There is not a clear cut answer I think. I have no regrets about adding a truss and armor to my Rubi housing and getting RCV shafts with the savings. This set up has not had any issues for me wheeling all over the southeast.