Built dana44 front vs prorock
11-29-2016, 09:38 AM
#11
JK Super Freak
So you are allowed an opinion, but no one else is. Got it.
Read his post. Then re-read mine. I was NOT suggesting he run out and buy an aftermarket axle.
The way it read to me is that he is not asking : is it worth it to dump money into a factory housing? Or, is a built factory housing strong? Or, how many factory housings fail?
He has already built his factory housing, and he has already read the debates. So the way his post reads to me is - I built up my factory 44, I think it is stout. But, I feel like stirring the pot one more time.
My opinion, housing vs housing, a pr is stronger than a beefed up stock housing. Apparently you feel that a built factory housing is just as strong as a pr. Go you...
Read his post. Then re-read mine. I was NOT suggesting he run out and buy an aftermarket axle.
The way it read to me is that he is not asking : is it worth it to dump money into a factory housing? Or, is a built factory housing strong? Or, how many factory housings fail?
He has already built his factory housing, and he has already read the debates. So the way his post reads to me is - I built up my factory 44, I think it is stout. But, I feel like stirring the pot one more time.
My opinion, housing vs housing, a pr is stronger than a beefed up stock housing. Apparently you feel that a built factory housing is just as strong as a pr. Go you...
If you just purchased a new vehicle and plan on keeping it a long time, put some descent road miles on it, putting 37s or larger tires on it and plan on wheeling it proper then an aftermarket housing would be a great investment. Sell your dana 30 while its whole and undamaged for the price of a happy meal and move on. I would not get a 44 personally but a 60 for not much more. Id do this for a larger r & p, to avoid dickin around with stupid undersized balljoints (im seriously sick of it), and free spinning hubs. Do this the same time as your suspension and tires/wheel purchase so you don't spend money twice (if funds permit of course). This is what my path would be if I was starting over and I knew then what I kow now
If your max tire size is a 35 and don't wheel often or hard throw some gussets on your stock axle and possibly a regear and be done. If it breaks it breaks then explore your options. This is what I did in the beginning but my wheeling style has changed and so has my tire size. My old 2010 rubi axles are still holding up but I know shit can happen. I may as well run what I have as long as I can. Its been 4 years 90k miles and countless wheeling trips on 37s, and the 2 years prior 35k miles on 35s so ive gotten my moneys worth....(And yes once again I know stock axles aren't as strong as aftermarket housings you don't have to be very bright to figure that out
Just my 2 cents
11-29-2016, 11:11 AM
#12
Ok, I've been down this upgrade trail with a stock JKUR D44 and will tell you had I to do it again I wouldn't have wasted a dime on it. I sleeved, gusseted, skid plated the CA brackets, added Pro Steers and Spyntec hubs to get rid of the vibes. The damn thing still bent. I found an angle corrected aftermarket front housing at 20% off, swapped everything over but the ball joints. After selling the stock housing I figure I have about $1400 in a much stronger housing. It simply doesn't pay to waste money on the stock JK front housings.
11-29-2016, 03:48 PM
#13
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Lucky for me my investment was low. Eventually I will upgrade and it will be to a 60 not a 44. I would argue (without any data of course because where would I find it) that my built 44 is not too far off from the strength of a prorock. Just my opinion.
Northridge 4x4
Northridge 4x4
11-29-2016, 07:22 PM
#15
Super Moderator
11-29-2016, 08:02 PM
#16
JK Jedi
Lucky for me my investment was low. Eventually I will upgrade and it will be to a 60 not a 44. I would argue (without any data of course because where would I find it) that my built 44 is not too far off from the strength of a prorock. Just my opinion.
Northridge 4x4
Northridge 4x4
11-30-2016, 03:29 AM
#17
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Ok I'll push the button! Why do you say that? More importantly why do you say it "like that". You sound like a total ass!
My thought process is with the truss and sleeves my tubes are stronger, and the interface to the pumpkin is stronger. The c's aren't going to bent. I could break a knuckle but that's not parts of a prorock axle. Where is the week point in your opinion compared to the prorock. I'm still running 44 R&P.
Could I crack the actual housing? I suppose but that would be a rare accident and certainly. And certainly not a result of my wheeling style.
Northridge 4x4
My thought process is with the truss and sleeves my tubes are stronger, and the interface to the pumpkin is stronger. The c's aren't going to bent. I could break a knuckle but that's not parts of a prorock axle. Where is the week point in your opinion compared to the prorock. I'm still running 44 R&P.
Could I crack the actual housing? I suppose but that would be a rare accident and certainly. And certainly not a result of my wheeling style.
Northridge 4x4
11-30-2016, 04:31 AM
#18
JK Super Freak
I'll poke the bear, what the hell. 
No truss? Another data point to suggest sleeves are a waste of money. Even plug welded sleeves do not magically make your tube thicker. It's a fallacy that too many people but into.
I hope the buyer knew he was buying a trashed housing.
Since you didn't add a truss, your statement cannot be considered accurate. Even if you did, I would discount it completely as being subjective and a matter of perspective. My trussed and gusseted 44 may not have the same strength as a PR60, but I hardly call it a waste of money.
I think an engineer would be able to tell us if the tube on a PR44 has the same flexural or tensile strength vs a stock tube with an Artec/Barnes/JCR truss properly welded on.
Do you know something we don't? I'd love to see that data!
Since you didn't add a truss, your statement cannot be considered accurate. Even if you did, I would discount it completely as being subjective and a matter of perspective. My trussed and gusseted 44 may not have the same strength as a PR60, but I hardly call it a waste of money.
Do you know something we don't? I'd love to see that data!
11-30-2016, 04:44 AM
#19
JK Freak
The ProRock tubes and housing are substantially stronger. The larger diameter does a shit ton more to resisting deflection than your silly sleeves (about worthless), and yes your "truss" (not a real truss) also helps, it's nothing like a larger diameter pipe does, and combine that with a 1/2" wall thickness large diameter pipe and your playing in entirely different ball field.
The housing.... the casting... on a ProRock it is specifically engineered to resist flexing under extreme loads that the factory distorts at.
The tubes flexing causes the shafts to attempt to move the carrier. The center section flex allows the ring to walk away from the pinion. All of this flexing combined makes that perfect gear mesh go to hell once you get loaded up and applying stress. Axle shafts bust at the ends of the splines from this. Ring and pinion failure happens from this.
If you want some form of laymans proof, spend time searching for ProRock 44 ring and pinion failures. I know of 3 documented cases on the planet earth that I was able to dig up in hours of searching. Why do almost no ProRock 44 axles have ring/pinion failure? Because they DO NOT FLEX.
To the guy that says:
The axle shaft U-Joints are the same on the 30 and 44. The yokes are the same as well on the axles. The D44 is larger at the shaft to spline interface where the D30 necks down.
Basically, the D44 and D30 are the same axle once outside of the axle splines, with the 44 having a larger ring/pinion and larger splined shaft area. Everything outside of that is identical on the late model Dana 30 (I believe it was 2012+ that the D30 got the D44 shaft yokes and joints).
The housing.... the casting... on a ProRock it is specifically engineered to resist flexing under extreme loads that the factory distorts at.
The tubes flexing causes the shafts to attempt to move the carrier. The center section flex allows the ring to walk away from the pinion. All of this flexing combined makes that perfect gear mesh go to hell once you get loaded up and applying stress. Axle shafts bust at the ends of the splines from this. Ring and pinion failure happens from this.
If you want some form of laymans proof, spend time searching for ProRock 44 ring and pinion failures. I know of 3 documented cases on the planet earth that I was able to dig up in hours of searching. Why do almost no ProRock 44 axles have ring/pinion failure? Because they DO NOT FLEX.
To the guy that says:
The most common issue seen most with d30s are broken ujoints, shafts and chipped teeth on the r & p. Rubi 44s all those parts are beefier and breakages less common. Throw some c gussets on and regear.
Basically, the D44 and D30 are the same axle once outside of the axle splines, with the 44 having a larger ring/pinion and larger splined shaft area. Everything outside of that is identical on the late model Dana 30 (I believe it was 2012+ that the D30 got the D44 shaft yokes and joints).
11-30-2016, 04:49 AM
#20
JK Freak
I think an engineer would be able to tell us if the tube on a PR44 has the same flexural or tensile strength vs a stock tube with an Artec/Barnes/JCR truss properly welded on.