If you need a cheap "retainer", pick up a large worm gear clamp from a store and simply run up through the hole in the perch and around. It's not the fanciest looking method, but it works.

 

I think I am just gonna drop the axle and do both coils over. Plus i can re torque the control arms and add the new shocks all at the same time. I've been also meaning to fix the ebrake lines too.

 

No. When you lift a Jeep (or whatever), that causes the axle to rotate, thus tilting the spring perches. With the spring perch tilted, that puts pressure on the spring to bow out--most usually noticed on the passenger side. A lot of folks first realize there is a problem because they hear a clunk or rattle from back there after the lift--because the spring is hitting the trackbar. The best way to fix it is to cut off the spring perch and weld it back on the (new) top of the axle, such that it faces straight toward the upper spring seat. The easy way for a modest lift is to use the correction wedge/pad/platform such as what I linked above. That's that I use. This also give you perhaps a quarter to a half inch more lift in the rear, because the spring is now straight--or pretty close to it.

As for pulling the springs, it isn't that difficult. In fact, I have two sets of rear springs, depending on whether I have my quite heavy hardtop and rack on, or a softtop. And I can swap those springs in about thirty minutes.

It is possible that you have something else going on there related to your off-road activities. But keep this in the back of your mind. And, whatever fixes you need, maybe go ahead and at least add correction wedges to the final repair. They just sit on top of the perch and the spring now seats into the wedges.

 

Epic! Thanks Mark. Great info here. I'll keep this thread updated. Swapping springs is alot of time on your knees which is why doing the repair blows.

 

Just to add to Mark's good comments - not long ago Dirtman posted a post that was an easier fix to achieve what Mark just recommended. That was to cut the low side only of the spring perch, raise it to level then weld a filler plate on both sides where you cut. Now this is all assuming that you have the correct pinion geometry for the lift. With my 2.5" MC springs I required an adjustable LCA to correct the pinion angle and no bow in the springs. Oh yes BTW - when I did the angle correction, as small as it seemed, there was a noticeable improvement in ride quality noticed.

 

OK thank you I will post pics after I find out of the coil is damaged.

 

Update:

I would trust this set up more than some pie shaped poly spacer install. https://images.metalcloak.com/MetalC...structions.pdf

 

That's nice, but a bit on the expensive side for what you're fixing. That's why I didn't include it in my own response. That, and my own experience. I've had mine for about a quarter million miles, driven all over North American, far too fast at much too heavy weight on way too rough roads, including all the way to the Arctic Ocean, and never had a problem from either "pie shaped poly spacer". If someone prefers a better solution, then move the spring perch to the proper place on the axle. And if one really wants to go first class, get adjustable rear control arms so you can center the axle in the wheel well, and then replace the driveshaft. But those "pie shaped poly spacer"s will work just fine for folks with a couple inches of lift.

 

Well this was another great and informative post. I decided to tear it apart last night and see if by simply removing the coil and replacing it would get me back to normal. It did for the most part. I think it is slightly bent in a weird direction and its causing me to lose a slight amount of lift but maybe it's just me. I feel the passenger side is still sitting slightly lower but not nearly as bad as it was earlier. I just kinda wanted to get under there with a 6 pack on a Friday night and see what's up. So i re-installed the coil and brand new shocks front and rear. JK drives so much better again. Nothing like new shocks or tires. Man I love that.

Which brings me to my next issue, it looks like the ball joints might be slightly squished. They are synergy and I think they have a lifetime guarantee but I may just be wishful thinking in my head. Does this look right filled with 2 fresh pumps of grease? I will jack up the front end tommorrow and see if I have play but a visual inspection says I might be sending synergy an email about replacing these. I did them at 55k and I've got 196k now.

 

If the ball joints are gone, then no amount of grease will save them. They've lost their rigidity and cant be saved.

Mark,

I don't think its any of your concern how much I pay for my parts of accessories. You go buy those poly pucks I'll stick with my Metalcloaks