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Bump Stop Help

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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 08:52 PM
  #11  
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Ah! Thanks for clarifying that for me nthinuf. It makes much more sense now.

2" is what the Rock Krawler guy told me to use with my setup. Figure they would know best.
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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 10:23 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by trkdayjnke
Ah! Thanks for clarifying that for me nthinuf. It makes much more sense now.

2" is what the Rock Krawler guy told me to use with my setup. Figure they would know best.
As with just about everything else concerning building your JK, bumpstop height has variables involved. A rule of thumb is 'lift height = extended bumpstop height'. But then you have to take tire size into account. And fender flare type. And shock length. And specific steering components used. And ...

Clear as mud, right?
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Old Jul 25, 2013 | 10:46 PM
  #13  
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so please clear this up for me
heres what im running right now:
jku
2.5" suspension lift
1.25" body lift
trimmed factory fenders
bilstein 5100 shocks for 2.5" lifts
2.5" lift sway bar end links
extended brake line brackets
factory bump stops
315/75r16 mud tires
1.5" wheel spacers behind factory steel wheels

should i change my bumpstops at all?

i wheel pretty hard and have never had any issues
i dont 100% understand the benefit of altering the bump stop length
guess ive heard too many contradicting opinions about them
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Last edited by Westtexasjku; Jul 25, 2013 at 10:48 PM.
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 12:58 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Westtexasjku

should i change my bumpstops at all?

i wheel pretty hard and have never had any issues
i dont 100% understand the benefit of altering the bump stop length
With your build, as long as you aren't over-compressing your shocks, you're fine. If the shocks are bottoming out before the bumpstops hit, you might cause some damage if you come down hard.

The benefits of extended bumpstops would be: Not over-compressing the shocks. Not stuffing the tires up too far and ripping fenders off or slicing them on the rear pinch seam. Not banging the flipped drag link/trackbar bracket up into the frame. Stuff like that.

But the way I read it, between the coil lift, body lift and chopped flares, you have all kinds of wheel well clearance, so bottoming the shocks is the only thing I can think of that you might want to check.
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 08:08 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by nthinuf
With your build, as long as you aren't over-compressing your shocks, you're fine. If the shocks are bottoming out before the bumpstops hit, you might cause some damage if you come down hard.

The benefits of extended bumpstops would be: Not over-compressing the shocks. Not stuffing the tires up too far and ripping fenders off or slicing them on the rear pinch seam. Not banging the flipped drag link/trackbar bracket up into the frame. Stuff like that.

But the way I read it, between the coil lift, body lift and chopped flares, you have all kinds of wheel well clearance, so bottoming the shocks is the only thing I can think of that you might want to check.
i damaged my factory shocks so i replaced them with the bilsteins
im assuming the damage was due to bottoming them out
at full flex my tires dont rub anywhere
if i go to 37 ever i guess ill worry about bumpstops (and a bunch of other stuff like gears, axle sleeves, pinch seams, wheel bearings etc) at that time
thanks for the helpful advice nthinuf!
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 08:15 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Westtexasjku
so please clear this up for me
heres what im running right now:
jku
2.5" suspension lift
1.25" body lift
trimmed factory fenders
bilstein 5100 shocks for 2.5" lifts
2.5" lift sway bar end links
extended brake line brackets
factory bump stops
315/75r16 mud tires
1.5" wheel spacers behind factory steel wheels

should i change my bumpstops at all?

i wheel pretty hard and have never had any issues
i dont 100% understand the benefit of altering the bump stop length
guess ive heard too many contradicting opinions about them
Attachment 481874Attachment 481875Attachment 481877
Off topic but man I love the way those factory steelies look painted up with real tires on them. Nice Jeep
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 08:19 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Rob 12B1P
Off topic but man I love the way those factory steelies look painted up with real tires on them. Nice Jeep
thanks rob
im really happy with them
im also really happy with how cheap they are to replace ($35) and how hard they are to damage (compared to an alloy wheel)
while there are some prettier alloy wheels if i had it to do over again id paint my 16" steelies again
i bought three extra (two for my off road trailer build - link here) and one more for a backup.
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 08:27 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by nthinuf
With your build, as long as you aren't over-compressing your shocks, you're fine. If the shocks are bottoming out before the bumpstops hit, you might cause some damage if you come down hard.

The benefits of extended bumpstops would be: Not over-compressing the shocks. Not stuffing the tires up too far and ripping fenders off or slicing them on the rear pinch seam. Not banging the flipped drag link/trackbar bracket up into the frame. Stuff like that.

But the way I read it, between the coil lift, body lift and chopped flares, you have all kinds of wheel well clearance, so bottoming the shocks is the only thing I can think of that you might want to check.
Yeah, nobody should know your Jeep better than you. I took my time removed the springs and factory foam bump stops to arrive at the length I used now. Oh added a 1/4" more bump stop for safety.
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