I vote for #2 using the TF replacement washers. I was able to get my caster to factory stock exactly with a 2.5 budget boost. It was about 2.8 before making the adjustment with the cam bolts.

The main downside is that if you want to switch to the adjustable LCAs later, then you have cut out the holes on the bracket right.

 

Kojack only has a leveling kit, not a 2.5" like your rig. His castor has not been affected too much if any.

 

Black rock burner, what do you think is causing the flighty steering? ball joints? If you go from cam bolts to LCA you will have to re weld, or weld in a cam bolt delete kit. I noticed a few vendors have them. Im just trying to get some stability back.

My dealer said that the caster is out on my jeep im right at the edge of spec. im guessing the cam bolts would bring me back to where I need to be. LCA's are a tough pill to swallow at 250 plus for a set of lowers, im not going any higher on my lift. I use it as a daily driver, with lots of highway kms. its a year and a half old and it has 79000k on it. I do use it off road in an adventure type setting, no rock crawling etc. I read that you can put a little tack weld on the cam bolts so they will not slip but you can cold chisel it off incase of adjustments. but in reality, there is no caster adjustment stock, so why would you need to adjust again if I am not going any higher.

Im just trying to find a cost effective way to get rid of some of the flighty steering.

I am going to put on new shocks, steering stabilizer, ball joints (not stock) and see how it goes.

 

I have had my lift in for over a year. im just fed up with the flighty steering. its really bad when we get heavy winds, etc. I am right at the edge of spec with my caster. It is considerably more flighty than stock.

on the up side , it looks MUCH BETTER, and With the 33's, she's a beastly rig compared to my buddies stock rubi.

 

There are consequences to modifying things. Now the question is "how bad do you want it to be right"?

I don't know about the "no adjustment" part. But this is checked ( and set ) when you have a Front End Alignement done. Things change on the front end as things wear.

 

But there are lots of people who run the cam bolts on bigger rigs and have no problems. I am just wondering why such hate from the jeepers.

I know of a guy who has them on a 1 ton dodge which he hammers the crap out of and never has an issue with them.

If I was going 3" or better, I would never run without a full arm setup, but for my leveling kit, they would fix some of my problems. like I said, the caster is at the edge of spec. with the cambolts I can come back into spec, and still be lifted.

 

Your using cam bolts? any issues? how many miles/kms on them since installing? any slippage?

 

Kojack- I know it's a huge price difference between cam-bolts and adjustable lower control arms, so maybe think of it this way. With cam-bolts you will always be conscience of possible failure; you will always climb under your rig checking things. After every wheeling run, every bumpy shaky road, you will climb underneath. You just won't feel comfortable even if you try your best to say everything is fine. It may even make you NOT wheel out of fear & anxiety. And hopefully this never ever happens, but when there is failure, it happens at the most terrible time.

With arms, once you torque them down, you'll have piece of mind. The quality arms are built better than the stock boxed arms that came from the factory. Now, it's good to check torque on these arms too, just not nearly as often.

If your rig is borderline, then it's a matter of cost vs. drivability. Its really up to you. And when highway driving, cross winds exaggerate things. Sounds like your leveling kit netted ~2" of lift up front.

 

A good solution to your situation it seems. Running stock arms and the spacers you are likely going to be in range and likley need a very slight adjustment- perfect for cam bolts. A spot weld is a decent idea, a quick hit with a grinder will pop it loose. I would not put the spot weld on until you are sure of the setting, larger tires will like a little more caster than stock specs depending on how much larger the tires are over stock.

replacment arms have more advantages than adjustability- bushing selection, flex, strength, etc. So that should weigh into any build plan, how you are using the vehicle should be weighed heavily- arms may not be needed for a street vehicle, with very light trail duty.

I think you are on the right track, and for the minimal investment in the cam bolts if they dont work out then you can spend some bucks on arms.

 

Im weighing out the information now. I got a good 2" if not more from the leveling kit. more noticeable than I first thought it would be.

Not all cam bolts are crappy build quality. Poly performace has high quality cam bolts available. and again, a tack weld just to keep them in place should stop any slipping.

I just think in my application arms are overkill, and a good high grade cam bolt would work.