Can I put this Dana 44 on my "X"
02-07-2014, 12:06 PM
#11
JK Junkie
Im sure the front and rear gears need to be matching. When he throws it in 4x4 it will cause problems. When I blew my front axle in my old 07 I got it replaced and the dude didnt check that I had 4.10 gears put in. he put in stock 3.21 gears in the front. When In 4 wheel drive the Jeep wouldnt run correctly. Tires moved at a different speed and torque and caused all kinds of noises.
02-07-2014, 12:16 PM
#12
JK Junkie
I just upgraded my 2013 Sport to Rubicon axles. Facts:
1. It is basically a simple swap. If you can put a lift kit on, you can swap the axles.
2. You need a Procal to update the gear ratio in the computer.
3. You need to decide how you want to wire the locker. Personal preference to some extent. Not a big deal though.
I spent months debating on dropping $10k for Prorocks, building my stock axles, buying new Rubi axles, etc. WORST option is to buy a new front Rubi axle and build the rear to match. In financial terms, lowest return on investment. Stock front Rubi is the same housing as the D30. Still need gussets, sleeves/truss, etc. 4.10 gearing is not usually ideal either. Then the rear build is gears, labor, locker, axle shafts, etc. You're over $2k in the rear now. Add it all up and you have $5k just to be comparable to a Rubicon.
Best approach: buy used Rubicon axles from someone doing an upgrade. Swap the front and rear. Sell your stock axles to offset the cost. Call it $3500 for front and rear Rubicon axles (that likely are already sleeved/upgraded), sell stock axles for $1200. So, $2300 or less and you have a nice set of 44s, with selectable lockers.
1. It is basically a simple swap. If you can put a lift kit on, you can swap the axles.
2. You need a Procal to update the gear ratio in the computer.
3. You need to decide how you want to wire the locker. Personal preference to some extent. Not a big deal though.
I spent months debating on dropping $10k for Prorocks, building my stock axles, buying new Rubi axles, etc. WORST option is to buy a new front Rubi axle and build the rear to match. In financial terms, lowest return on investment. Stock front Rubi is the same housing as the D30. Still need gussets, sleeves/truss, etc. 4.10 gearing is not usually ideal either. Then the rear build is gears, labor, locker, axle shafts, etc. You're over $2k in the rear now. Add it all up and you have $5k just to be comparable to a Rubicon.
Best approach: buy used Rubicon axles from someone doing an upgrade. Swap the front and rear. Sell your stock axles to offset the cost. Call it $3500 for front and rear Rubicon axles (that likely are already sleeved/upgraded), sell stock axles for $1200. So, $2300 or less and you have a nice set of 44s, with selectable lockers.
03-02-2014, 07:41 PM
#15
JK Newbie
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I ordered!!!
I ordered the parts, the axle is on national backorder :( and I ordered rear gears and a install kit from Northridge 4x4. The guys over at Northridge were very helpful.
04-02-2014, 04:24 PM
#16
JK Newbie
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one thing after another
So I got my new axle in. 
However the guys at the shop are saying my factory drive shaft won't fit. :( I'm going to look at it tomorrow morning. From the sounds of it they are saying my factory shaft is 3 inches too long. If I remember I'll post the outcome later.
However the guys at the shop are saying my factory drive shaft won't fit. :( I'm going to look at it tomorrow morning. From the sounds of it they are saying my factory shaft is 3 inches too long. If I remember I'll post the outcome later.
04-02-2014, 05:09 PM
#17
JK Junkie
I'd get a second opinion on that. The factory shaft is the same for a D44 and a D30. They expand when they're unbolted and have to be compressed for install. I did the same swap without issue.
04-02-2014, 05:22 PM
#18
JK Newbie
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10-11-2014, 10:54 PM
#20
JK Enthusiast
Rubi axle swap in X
I just purchased front and rear Rubi axles that have 5.13 gears C gussets and stronger axles etc. The housings are stock except for the Cs and Ruff Stuff dif covers. They are complete with the locker connectors (male and female) so the wiring should be simple. I'm planning on doing the swap into my JKUX myself with help. This thread has informed me about some issues I need to be aware of when making the DIY swap. This thread hasn't been active for awhile, but if any of you who have done this swap have any other helpful info to share please reply. I've already checked out Y90s thread and a couple of others regarding wiring the lockers. I am looking for any additional issues that I might run into regarding removing the old and installing the new axles. I'll be running 35s on an auto 3.8.