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Centering rear axle

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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 05:59 AM
  #11  
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I fully admit my knowledge of this type of stuff is minimal. I am putting 35 inch tires and a 3.5 inch lift on. I am worried my tires will rub on the hard rock rock rails I have on Hard rock JKU. Will adjustable upper and or lower control arms push the axle far enough back to avoid rubbing on the rock rail? Some have said they have rubbing issues when doing a lift. Any info on this would be helpful. I am most likely going to install with stock control arms and then make adjustments as needed.
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 06:31 AM
  #12  
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most people will simple trim the rails.
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 10:29 PM
  #13  
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Any recommendations if I opted not to trim the rock rails?
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 11:17 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by ShawnNoble
Any recommendations if I opted not to trim the rock rails?
Smaller tire or tolerate the rubbing.

As your axle moves during articulation, the arc that it moves in will bring it toward the rails.

Moving your axle back for that clearance will introduce other problems (like coils then being bowed)

Trimming really isn't a big deal - https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-issue-328074/

Last edited by jedg; Oct 7, 2016 at 11:21 PM.
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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 07:25 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by jedg
Smaller tire or tolerate the rubbing.

As your axle moves during articulation, the arc that it moves in will bring it toward the rails.

Moving your axle back for that clearance will introduce other problems (like coils then being bowed)

Trimming really isn't a big deal - https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-issue-328074/
Yep you get longer control arms (Uppers and lowers) for the rear. Then you open up a new can of worms like Spring bowing and having to get a new rear driveshaft.

Trimming the rails and pinch seam takes 30 minutes. Replacing your rear control arms, driveshaft. Not to mention you can't move the spring perch located on the frame. So you would have to get Coil-overs.

So around 4K worth of parts or you can get a tube of JB weld and some spray on bed-liner for $10. Its your choice though.
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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 12:18 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Jonathan_JK
Yep you get longer control arms (Uppers and lowers) for the rear. Then you open up a new can of worms like Spring bowing and having to get a new rear driveshaft. Trimming the rails and pinch seam takes 30 minutes. Replacing your rear control arms, driveshaft. Not to mention you can't move the spring perch located on the frame. So you would have to get Coil-overs. So around 4K worth of parts or you can get a tube of JB weld and some spray on bed-liner for $10. Its your choice though.
DS Is fine and theres min to worry about if only moving the axle back 1/4-3/8. I had to move the swaybar back with .5
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 06:14 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10
DS Is fine and theres min to worry about if only moving the axle back 1/4-3/8. I had to move the swaybar back with .5
DS?

I pulled the trigger and bought adjustable upper rear control arms. We shall see what that does. I wish Jeep would consider the lifts people are going to be installing and accommodate that at time of production. I guess I could have bought an AEV package!
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 06:25 AM
  #18  
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DS=Drive shaft
There are only about 10 million different set ups you can do on a jeep as far as suspension. Not sure how Jeep could accommodate everyones preference on lifts.
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 06:41 AM
  #19  
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Yeah, of all the things they could change to make the end user-product "better" adjustable control arms are low on my list of suggestions.
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 12:22 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
DS=Drive shaft
There are only about 10 million different set ups you can do on a jeep as far as suspension. Not sure how Jeep could accommodate everyones preference on lifts.
I meant make the rock rails an inch shorter so they don't protrude into the wheel wells. Also moving the exhaust cross piece back two inches so that everyone doing a lift doesn't have to buy a spacer kit. Simple things along those lines.
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