Hey guys....trying to figure out how/when to lift my Jeep. You can see my current setup in my signature's pictures. To the point, this list is what I currently plan on doing, but the end cost is just too high for me to handle right now. So, my question is, is there a cheaper way to do this to make this more feasible? Cheaper is the goal, but I certainly don't want something that's not going to hold up and fail on me. As this is my daily driver AND my weekend warrior which I wheel hard and often.

I'll install myself besides mounting the tires, so that shouldn't be an issue...but even with no labor...still expensive. Any ideas? Or should I just wait until I can afford the 6 grand? The tire/wheel combo is non-negotiable, they are the goal, but everything else?

Planned Upgrades....in the future unless I can find cheaper:

• Rubicon Express 3.5" Super-Flex™ Short Arm Lift Kit w/ Shocks - $1,969.98
• Five AEV Pintler Wheels $999.95
• Five 35" BFG M/T KM2s $1,249.75
• Hypertech Reprogrammer $379.99
• Tom Woods Front Driveshaft $489.99
• Tom Woods Rear Driveshaft $489.99
• Tire Mounting Cost $100.00
• TOTAL: $5,679.65 + Tax/Shipping - Ouch

Anything else I can do instead for cheaper? No need for finance lectures, will be saving up. Just curious if anyone else has any options for me. $6K is alot.

 

Try this...

3" Black Diamond Lift -- $699.99
Use your stock wheels -- FREE!
Spidertrax 1.5" wheel spacers -- $199.90
Five 35" BFG M/T KM2s -- $1,249.75
Hypertech Reprogrammer -- $379.99
Tire Mounting Cost -- $100.00
Shipping from Northridge4x4.com -- FREE!

No need to immediately replace the driveshafts.

TOTAL: $2,629.63
You save over $3,050.02!

Do you really need AEV wheels? They look pretty darn similar to your stock Rubi wheels, and they're not exactly cheap either. Wheels would be the last thing I would upgrade.

Good luck.

 

As for the Hypertech, unless you're looking for the performance aspects, you can get a programmer that just adjusts for tire size for about $200.

 

If he could get $500-600 for his stock wheels/tires and save the cost of the wheel spacers that would mostly cover the cost of the wheels, so I think it's do-able. I like the stock Moabs a LOT, but I like the AEVs even more If the stockers had adequate offset to run bigger tires w/o spacers I would keep them.

 

You only need a 2.5" lift to run 35" tires, the Teraflex 2.5 Coil lift w/ Shocks for$559.95 would be another less expensive option, and you wouldn't need to replace the driveshafts right off.

 

Look at my sig... Your build is very much how mine started. I had the Teraflex BB for a few months but moved up to the lift I wanted soon after. I am still running stock driveshafts front and rear. I will need to replace the rear but its not a pressing matter. The front is plenty long and 3.5 inches of lift doesn't put at enough of an angle to need replaced. As far as tires go you have made an excellent choice if you can afford them. If not I would consider Hankook Dynapro RT03's like I have. I'm very pleased with them. The programmer is on my to do list but it also isn't necessary right off the bat. I say get the pintlers over the bridgers simply for the problem I'm running into now is that there are VERY few 37's for a 16 inch rim. They are plentiful for 17's. Don't cheap out on the lift. Buy the one you want the first time even if it means saving for it. I am very happy with this lift but its probably going to get upgraded again in the never ending wallet drain that is my project JK. If you do buy this lift I have a special tip for installing the rear track bar bracket. Don't. Throw it as far from the Jeep as you can. Spend the $180 for a Full Traction rear track bar. The RE bracket didn't fit worth a damn. Another lift I would consider would be the Full Traction Ultimate in either the 3 inch or 4 inch. Its also quality. I love the Bilstien shocks that came with the RE kit. They are a little more firm than the stock shocks but not harsh. Good luck and PM me if you need any more help.

Ty

 

I whole heartedly second this opinion.

Ty

 

Im gradually upgrading my 2.5 BB to a fully adj 3" lift. Im doing it in stages as my wallet alllows. I watch the forsale section like a hawk. I saved about 500 on my wheels and tires by buying them from another member. The tires only had 500 miles on them and the wheels only had a few scratches. I also saved about 40% on my upper arms, winch mount and some other small items. I also try to only buy stuff on sale. Ive saved about 10 - 20% that way. And Im still getting exactly what I want, I just have to be patient

So far everything has worked out nicely.

 

Hey, let me just say thank you right off the start to everyone who has posted a response.

-As far as the driveshafts go? I may not NEED them right away. But there's also no telling when they will fail. I only have one vehicle, this one. So having a driveshaft fail on me far from home on a trail somewhere would suck. Obviously it's a risk when I wheel hard as often as I do. But when lifting it, I'd rather not take chances, and just replace them right away. It would be cheaper not to, but I think it would be smarter to just replace them right off the bat.

-And the wheel/tire combo? Non-negotiable, they are what I want. My current stock wheels are chewed and scarred up, not many would want them. But my tires are in decent condition.

-The programmer, I could get a speedo correction cheaper than the hypertech, but I figure I might as well spend a bit more and get the hypertech to get both benefits. Why spend 200 for speedo, when I can pay 300 for speedo and more...just one of those might as well get more for my money.

-This kind of leaves just the lift to adjust. Which I could go from the RE SHort Arm lift to a much cheaper lift. I could save maybe up to $1000. But, I have heard the RE 3.5" Superflex lift is a good quality lift and with this knowledge, I think I should wait to get this one. The newer control arms are supposedly tougher and the RE would give me much better articulation than a cheaper version of the same lift size.



Conclusion:
Looks like if I want it done right, I'm going to have to just wait and save. Again, I thank you guys for posting. I may go with slightly cheaper driveshafts and sell my current tires/wheels to offset costs. But in the end, I don't think I have a cheaper option. The first reply had some good ideas, but the driveshafts are a must for me, don't want to deal with a failure at a bad time and I want to get rid of my stock wheels. Though I may consider the black diamond lift...but either way, total cost will lead me to wait and save. So I might as well wait and save up to get the best if I'm already waiting.

 

TF 2.5BB with shock extenders 249.95
Umlimited rubicon springs Free or very cheap
No drive shafts
CRAGAR Series 342 Black "D" Window Wheel 62.99x5= 314.95
35" KM'2 1300.00
tire mounting 100.00

Total 1964.90