I know I know... there are threads for this, but none answer my question.. I picked up a set of D60's off an 04 F250. 4.10's



I have a 2008 2 DR

1. I run 37's
2. Will 4.10's be ok for the 37's??
3. Can I run the Coilovers in the front and Coil springs with remote resi shocks in the back?

The reason I ask about the coilovers in front and normals in the back is I will want to eventually run coilovers in the back, but don't have a lot of ching to buy all at once, so what do you guys think??


Thanks

 

I had the 4:10s on my jku with 35s. It was okay around the city, but highway and hills were not fun. If i were you id invest in some 5:13s.

 

I have 4:10 in my rubi with 37s mine is a manual. With a manual they say you can get away with 4:10. And a 4:1 transfer helps off road . But I've been to Pittsburgh and with the hills there. I wouldn't recommend it even with a manual and I would guess you don't have a rubi transfer case. As far as the coilovers you can do front then back but you better put a long arm on first.

 

410s arent bad but 538s with the 3.8, automatic, and 37s is ideal.

 

Yeah it is a 6 SPD.. So what would I be looking at to put the rear long arm on??

 

You don't need a long arm for coilovers.

 

Not even in the rear??

 

No need for long arms front or rear to run coilovers.
I know several people including myself running coilovers on short arms.

 

Thanks Chris, I appreciate it. Just trying to get everything together for the build.. I'm super pumped, I haven't seen to many 2 doors with coilover set ups, And I may be switching to 40's. I will also be adding the Gussett C's and all the other bullet proof components from EVO as well!!

 

If you want to use the coilovers and get max travel you want a long arm or at least a mid arm. If you do it with stock arms than its just eye candy. You will not get 12" or 14" of travel with out a long arm suspension period.