Control Arm Drop Brackets? Yes / No?
JK Newbie
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth, TX
I installed the Rancho 4" Sport Lift last summer. It comes with the Rancho relocation brackets which I personally think are better constructed than the others. My caster is 4.7 with the 4" lift and stock control arms. Steering is solid at highway speeds (70mph). 
Rancho RS6250B - RANCHO® Control Arm Bracket for 07-14 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK with 3-4" Lift - Quadratec
I'm not sure how they would work with 2.5" lift but I'm sure Rancho tech support would be happy to field your questions.
I noticed a post above from someone who may have removed adjustable control arms and switched to relocation brackets. Why would anyone do that? It's all about the geometry.
When you lift you increase the angle of the control arms because the trailing end is now higher than the leading. More lift equals more angle. Now, when you hit a bump at highway speed, the wheel doesn't just travel up but also must travel forward as it moves up. The counter-force to the wheel forward motion pushes on the Jeep frame and is felt as a bump from the front, an uncomfortable jerky motion. You will never experience this on the trail. It only happens at highway speed.
The relocation brackets reduce the control arm angle so they restore ride comfort on rough roads at speed.
At least that's my story and I'm sticking to it. Your mileage may vary.
Rancho RS6250B - RANCHO® Control Arm Bracket for 07-14 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK with 3-4" Lift - Quadratec
I'm not sure how they would work with 2.5" lift but I'm sure Rancho tech support would be happy to field your questions.
I noticed a post above from someone who may have removed adjustable control arms and switched to relocation brackets. Why would anyone do that? It's all about the geometry.
When you lift you increase the angle of the control arms because the trailing end is now higher than the leading. More lift equals more angle. Now, when you hit a bump at highway speed, the wheel doesn't just travel up but also must travel forward as it moves up. The counter-force to the wheel forward motion pushes on the Jeep frame and is felt as a bump from the front, an uncomfortable jerky motion. You will never experience this on the trail. It only happens at highway speed.
The relocation brackets reduce the control arm angle so they restore ride comfort on rough roads at speed.
At least that's my story and I'm sticking to it. Your mileage may vary.
That explanation answers your own
question as to why someone might switch from adjustable to brackets. Control arms allow you to dial in your caster but do nothing about the geometry to absorb the road as you explained unless you have a long arm kit.
I agree that a 2.5 inch lift might not make as big of a difference though.
But hey, that's my story. Lol
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JK Enthusiast
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: Louisiana
Since you won't crawl, the brackets will be fine. Cam bolts too as long as you tighten the hell out of them. I'd personally spend the $ and get some adjustable arms and the brackets.
You also need to make sure your toe is IN about 1/16-1/8. I'm willing to bet if it's flighty, then you are at zero or toes out some.
You also need to make sure your toe is IN about 1/16-1/8. I'm willing to bet if it's flighty, then you are at zero or toes out some.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: Medford,WI
Val 2.0- I have the exact same setup as you, '13 JKU with Teraflex 2.5, Monster track bar, Kelly TSR tires.
I put drop brackets in mine. I went with the Rancho brackets, RS6250B. I picked them up for $120 online, just slightly more than the AEV. I liked the one piece design. Easy to install in the garage, don't even need a jack, just do one side at a time. As long as you have the tools to tighten the lower control arm bolts.
If you are putting in the brackets, it would be a good opportunity to intall the 9/16 bolt kit to replace the slightly undersized OEM metrics. Cheap peace of mind, about $40. Northridge sells a kit, but I sourced mine out locally through Fastenal.
I put drop brackets in mine. I went with the Rancho brackets, RS6250B. I picked them up for $120 online, just slightly more than the AEV. I liked the one piece design. Easy to install in the garage, don't even need a jack, just do one side at a time. As long as you have the tools to tighten the lower control arm bolts.
If you are putting in the brackets, it would be a good opportunity to intall the 9/16 bolt kit to replace the slightly undersized OEM metrics. Cheap peace of mind, about $40. Northridge sells a kit, but I sourced mine out locally through Fastenal.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
I didn't believe it myself as well but I instantly felt the difference after installation. I drove the same roads where I encountered bump steer previously (plenty in Pittsburgh) and experienced a much smoother ride. You could feel the suspension sucking up the bumps and the jarring sensation was not being transferred to the frame anymore. Great investment for only $100.
BTW these do work if you have the EVO Protek system. Just some fighting and swearing involved.
BTW these do work if you have the EVO Protek system. Just some fighting and swearing involved.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
Val 2.0- I have the exact same setup as you, '13 JKU with Teraflex 2.5, Monster track bar, Kelly TSR tires.
I put drop brackets in mine. I went with the Rancho brackets, RS6250B. I picked them up for $120 online, just slightly more than the AEV. I liked the one piece design. Easy to install in the garage, don't even need a jack, just do one side at a time. As long as you have the tools to tighten the lower control arm bolts.
If you are putting in the brackets, it would be a good opportunity to intall the 9/16 bolt kit to replace the slightly undersized OEM metrics. Cheap peace of mind, about $40. Northridge sells a kit, but I sourced mine out locally through Fastenal.
I put drop brackets in mine. I went with the Rancho brackets, RS6250B. I picked them up for $120 online, just slightly more than the AEV. I liked the one piece design. Easy to install in the garage, don't even need a jack, just do one side at a time. As long as you have the tools to tighten the lower control arm bolts.
If you are putting in the brackets, it would be a good opportunity to intall the 9/16 bolt kit to replace the slightly undersized OEM metrics. Cheap peace of mind, about $40. Northridge sells a kit, but I sourced mine out locally through Fastenal.
So did the ride quality improve as others have stated? Don't get me wrong it's not horrible by any means, just want to improve it if possible... will probably wait a few months though, going on vacation next week then will more than likely be packing up the house getting ready to move...
Thanks again everyone! I really appreciate all your input! This is such a great forum, so much knowledge!
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Georgetown, TX
Skip the brackets, keep the factory lowers with their great road absorbing bushings and replace the uppers with adjustables to dial it back in. You can get a set of Metalcloak uppers for 205 and they include the replacement bolt.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 5
From: Pasadena Maryland
I disagree. If the OP is looking to improve ride quality, and isn't rock crawling, the brackets will provide a much smoother ride.