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Control Arms ?!

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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 06:36 AM
  #21  
PirateKitty's Avatar
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Any suggestions on what brand of adjustable lower control arms to get? I have a '07 Rubicon 4dr with a 4" Pro Comp Stage 1 lift. Running 37's I'm a little to close for comfort on the trimmed pinch points. I plan on adding some coil spacers this weekend to give me a tad more lift. Heard the rear lower adjustable control arms will push the axle back and will perhaps help my issue.

Also if I'm doing the rear lowers that doesnt mean I have to do the front lower and then the all round uppers does it?
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 06:50 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by PirateKitty
Any suggestions on what brand of adjustable lower control arms to get? I have a '07 Rubicon 4dr with a 4" Pro Comp Stage 1 lift. Running 37's I'm a little to close for comfort on the trimmed pinch points. I plan on adding some coil spacers this weekend to give me a tad more lift. Heard the rear lower adjustable control arms will push the axle back and will perhaps help my issue.

Also if I'm doing the rear lowers that doesnt mean I have to do the front lower and then the all round uppers does it?
actually, if you're running 37's, i would highly recommend that you trim the pinch seam to give you more clearance. (EDIT: i see you already have done this) while pushing back your rear axle may help keep your tires away from the seam, unless you get uppers to go with it, you will be changing your pinion angle and you don't really want to do that. adjustable uppers will allow you to move things equally but you need to be careful not to go too much as you will then see other problems with suspension components making contact with things and your tires making contact with your bumper.

regarding your 2nd question, no, you don't need to get fronts as well. as far as what brand to get goes, i have run full traction arms in the past and loved them. they offer outstanding flex and are very beefy. however, you will need to grease them on a regular basis in order to keep them from squeaking. this is no big deal to me but it is for some. i am also currently running teraflex arms now and can tell you that they are great as well. super beefy and well made. while they won't offer as much flex due to their rubber bushings at the frame mounts, they will still offer more than enough and won't need any maintenance to keep them from squeaking. i have installed a set of currie arms as well, have seen them work on the trail and can tell you that they too offer amazing flex - maybe the most in it's class due to it's johnny joints on both ends but you will feel a little more road noise with them as these joints aren't as absorbant as rubber or poly bushings. for me, this is no big deal and i can hardly notice it but i do know it bothers some people and just thought i should put it out there.

HTH
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 08:45 AM
  #23  
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Hellbilly, if your JK is driving good just drive it. If you start to get some slight wheel shimmy feedback in your steering wheel around 42-48 mph as sometimes happens after suspensions parts wear in some then look at a set of lower adjustable control arms or some companies offer an adjustable cam type bolt that gives a slight adjustment. The caster you will want is from 4-5 degrees but if you go more than 3 degrees you will have OEM drive line issues. Your toe should be from 10-20 but your 21 (10+11) is close enough. For people with taller lifts it gets more complicated because if you focus too much on the caster adjustment you develop drive shaft vibrations and such. Those cases need adjustable ball joints to help regain 2 degrees +/- but as far as I know the adjustable ball joints are not on the market yet for the JK.

Last edited by Mssbbmia; Sep 5, 2008 at 09:25 AM.
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 11:15 AM
  #24  
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Everyone here I am sure gave you great info! I haven't read the thread but let me say that adjust ability is the key. The stock control arms flex plenty so dont just buy them for that. Adjust ability will allow you to control the feel of the Jeep so as to keep the Jeeps geometry close to stock. But its not needed depending on the right lift parts. I have all stock control arms on 4 inches of lift on an unlimited and have ZERO problems. You can read my write up in my signature. Here is a shot of stock control arm flex.





Last edited by JulietKilo; Sep 5, 2008 at 11:19 AM.
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 11:41 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Mssbbmia
Hellbilly, if your JK is driving good just drive it. If you start to get some slight wheel shimmy feedback in your steering wheel around 42-48 mph as sometimes happens after suspensions parts wear in some then look at a set of lower adjustable control arms or some companies offer an adjustable cam type bolt that gives a slight adjustment. The caster you will want is from 4-5 degrees but if you go more than 3 degrees you will have OEM drive line issues. Your toe should be from 10-20 but your 21 (10+11) is close enough. For people with taller lifts it gets more complicated because if you focus too much on the caster adjustment you develop drive shaft vibrations and such. Those cases need adjustable ball joints to help regain 2 degrees +/- but as far as I know the adjustable ball joints are not on the market yet for the JK.
Thanks! Thats what I need to hear. Wow, can you beat those Teraflex guys? What a great company. If I decide to get any control arms, you bet it'll be Teraflex!!
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 03:07 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Hellbilly
Thanks! Thats what I need to hear. Wow, can you beat those Teraflex guys? What a great company. If I decide to get any control arms, you bet it'll be Teraflex!!
Great choice. TF is definitely the way to go with control arms. That will be my choice also when I choose to buy control arms.
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 11:17 PM
  #27  
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ok guys, i need some help with control arms now. ive got a 2 door X, with about a 4" lift in the front and 3" in the rear. i have 35s for it that i put on when i go offroading, but i mainly drive it with the 32s from the S package (255/75R17s). that being said, i plan on gettin some upper rear arms to adjust my pinion angle, and im pretty sure ive got that all figured out. however, with the front, should i still up the caster if i normally have the 32s on? or is the caster increase just for the bigger tires? do i need to worry about excessive driveshaft wear at all with the caster change? i dont mind getting new driveshafts eventually, but i would rather not wear out the stock ones really fast. thanks!
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 06:21 AM
  #28  
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I installed the Clayton 3.5" lift (from David at Northridge - best supplier out there) and couldn't be happier! They are pricey but you get what you pay for, lifetime warranty on the arms. Super strong, johnny joints, great quality, great fit, super flex. Have a look at these arms, the Clayton website has lots of install pictures it just takes a little looking to find them.
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 08:41 AM
  #29  
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My 3" lift kit is by Teraflex, but my control arms are by Superlift. I chose these because the bushing are rubber/poly. for the same reasons WOL mentioned earlier. JKS also has a set of CAs which are very similar to the Superlift CAs. If you want more flex and don't mind the road noise then go with Tera, Clayton or Currie. I'd be inclined towards Teraflex due to their customer service. The best

Good luck!
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 10:18 PM
  #30  
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From: Laguna Niguel, CA
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Originally Posted by axsys
ok guys, i need some help with control arms now. ive got a 2 door X, with about a 4" lift in the front and 3" in the rear. i have 35s for it that i put on when i go offroading, but i mainly drive it with the 32s from the S package (255/75R17s). that being said, i plan on gettin some upper rear arms to adjust my pinion angle, and im pretty sure ive got that all figured out. however, with the front, should i still up the caster if i normally have the 32s on? or is the caster increase just for the bigger tires? do i need to worry about excessive driveshaft wear at all with the caster change? i dont mind getting new driveshafts eventually, but i would rather not wear out the stock ones really fast. thanks!
you should add more caster up front, no it will not matter if you are running 32's or 35's and no, you should not have any excessive driveshaft wear with it. if you have not replaced the rear shaft, it being so short and being at an extreme angle will cause the cv's to wear out prematurely.
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