I happen to come into a set of 3.5 inch 2 door jks springs from a friend that sold his jeep, he provided some jks adjustable end links as well. I bought some aftermarket shocks & brake lines since i was already in the market for a new lift including some items i have on my current lift.

I'm assuming already I will need new drive shafts so ill be looking to replace those, but as far as control arms im confused as i have seen multiple different answers while cruising through the forums.
Will I need the entire set or can i get away with just front lower and rear upper for now ? I'm relatively new to suspensions so any information helps.

Thanks.
08 2DR JK

 

chances are you can get away with just lower fronts depending on how much actual lift you get. if a true 3.5" you can wait and see how your rear pinion angle looks.

 

I have a hard top, and aftermarket front & rear metal bumpers so im assuming that will compress the lift a bit. Ive installed lifts before but none big enough to alter angles enough to have to change control arms out. Thanks for the reply

 

I like your new "ambassador" label jadmt

Some of what comes in to play is what size tires you're running. Not sure how it relates to you 2dr guys, but on the 4drs 37s is about the point at which you really need to start scooting the wheelbase back out just a bit as the tires creep in to the wheel wells, specifically in the rear. Full arms are needed to both position the axle and adjust the pinion/caster angles at that point. If you're able to correct your pinion angles with just 2 front arms and 2 rear arms (if that is even necessary in back) then no reason to complete the set really. If budget is no obstacle, it is nice to have a full set of arms, but for most people it's not necessary.

 

Thank you for the information, that's really helpful! I am running 295/70/17 MXT's currently. I'm thinking I might just order some front lowers, give it a shot & if needed i can buy some rear uppers. I do have another vehicle at my disposal while i wait for rears if that's needed. Now onto saving up for driveshafts!

 

The CV joints on the factory axles are very forgiving. They won't crap out on you immediately or anything. What happens is if the angles are too steep, the boots at the CV will rip and allow the grease to spew out. Once the joint dries out, you start getting the tell-tale ticking/clicking of bad CV joint. In the 4dr the rear angle is very, very forgiving, and most don't even have to correct for it, but guessing more exaggerated on your short wheelbase.

 

That is good to know, if anything it will only be about a month or two before i can get some shafts. I also usually don't get about 50-55 mph as most of the driving is not freeway/highway speeds so hopefully that will help it not wanna tear. Ill make sure to keep an eye on the boots as well.

 

also instead of control arms you could do geometry brackets up front. they are cheaper and work well.

 

LOL I am not worthy of a label.

 

If you wouldn't be concerned about losing ground clearance.....this is the better way to go. Just keeps those arms at a flatter angle, not to mention cheaper and easy to install. Downside is can't dial caster in perfectly as there are only a couple mounting options, but then again caster isn't an exact science. There's a wide range of "acceptable".