Cost and time to regear?
I just bought a 2008 Unlimited X with the auto & 3.73 gears. For those of us without Rubicon's or the 4.10 option, it seems like paying around $1700 for a gear change W/O the cost of any lockers (if wanted, but why wouldn't you
) would be crazy
. I'm basing this on the fact that right now you can get COMPLETE FRONT & REAR Dana 44 Rubicon axles for $2829.98 with FREE SHIPPING from 4WD Hardware. Sure you only get 4.10 gears, but you get a stronger front axle (not just adding gears to the weaker stock Dana 30), plus you get the factory Rubicon lockers. All of that for only a little over $1100 more. Far less than the cost of adding front & rear selectable lockers
. The only thing you would have to do is bolt them up and wire up some toggles for the lockers, and anyone who wants to modify their jeep should know how to do these simple tasks. From what I have read a lot of people are happy with 4.10 gears with up to 35" tires. This seems like the best bang for the buck to me, especially since how I will probably be going with 33s but definitely no larger than 35s . That is just my 2 cents.
) would be crazy
. I'm basing this on the fact that right now you can get COMPLETE FRONT & REAR Dana 44 Rubicon axles for $2829.98 with FREE SHIPPING from 4WD Hardware. Sure you only get 4.10 gears, but you get a stronger front axle (not just adding gears to the weaker stock Dana 30), plus you get the factory Rubicon lockers. All of that for only a little over $1100 more. Far less than the cost of adding front & rear selectable lockers
. The only thing you would have to do is bolt them up and wire up some toggles for the lockers, and anyone who wants to modify their jeep should know how to do these simple tasks. From what I have read a lot of people are happy with 4.10 gears with up to 35" tires. This seems like the best bang for the buck to me, especially since how I will probably be going with 33s but definitely no larger than 35s . That is just my 2 cents.
Is it just me, or does it seem kind of inefficient for so many of us to save $3K by getting a X instead of a Rubicon, and then spend another $3k or so to have it modded to have the rubi's axles, but, still not have the low range t-case, etc.... we COULD have had if we'd just ponied up the bucks up front for the Rubi in the first place?

The T-case, the upgraded sounds system and seats, suspension, the std freedom hard top instead of the std soft top, etc....add up to the difference....the OTHER ~ $3k, etc....depending upon options.
I think if I were going to buy a JK, and then mod it with RUBI parts anyway, I'd just bite the bullet, and GET a Rubi.
If I were going to scrap the oem drivetrain anyway, and do D60's, an Atlas, etc, then sure, the X is a better starting platform.

The T-case, the upgraded sounds system and seats, suspension, the std freedom hard top instead of the std soft top, etc....add up to the difference....the OTHER ~ $3k, etc....depending upon options.
I think if I were going to buy a JK, and then mod it with RUBI parts anyway, I'd just bite the bullet, and GET a Rubi.
If I were going to scrap the oem drivetrain anyway, and do D60's, an Atlas, etc, then sure, the X is a better starting platform.
Is it just me, or does it seem kind of inefficient for so many of us to save $3K by getting a X instead of a Rubicon, and then spend another $3k or so to have it modded to have the rubi's axles, but, still not have the low range t-case, etc.... we COULD have had if we'd just ponied up the bucks up front for the Rubi in the first place?

The T-case, the upgraded sounds system and seats, suspension, the std freedom hard top instead of the std soft top, etc....add up to the difference....the OTHER ~ $3k, etc....depending upon options.
I think if I were going to buy a JK, and then mod it with RUBI parts anyway, I'd just bite the bullet, and GET a Rubi.
If I were going to scrap the oem drivetrain anyway, and do D60's, an Atlas, etc, then sure, the X is a better starting platform.


The T-case, the upgraded sounds system and seats, suspension, the std freedom hard top instead of the std soft top, etc....add up to the difference....the OTHER ~ $3k, etc....depending upon options.
I think if I were going to buy a JK, and then mod it with RUBI parts anyway, I'd just bite the bullet, and GET a Rubi.
If I were going to scrap the oem drivetrain anyway, and do D60's, an Atlas, etc, then sure, the X is a better starting platform.



