Ok, I'll come to Currie's defense (not like they need it though).

I bought the Currie steering (CURRECTLYNC) set up ... from Northridge (thanks David)
along with a pr44, and the Reid knuckles. I also was shorted the u bolts for the stabilizer. By the time I got around to looking for them the box was already gone, so IF they were in the box they were gone. If I could offer a couple of suggestions for Currie ..... Change where you pack the ubolts! Many people cannot find these damn things. Second either add instructions on how to flip the drag link end that connects to the knuckle or don't over tighten the damn thing.

Now for the customer service of Currie. Called them and explained that for the Reid knuckles to work the drag link end need to be flipped, I tried (really tried) with a 3/4" impact to unscrew the rebuidable ball joint and could not get it off. They sent me another end (already flipped) I did have to pay for shipping both ways and had to pay for the end upfront ... BUT they did take the scarred one back, and sent me a check a couple weeks later. So I am happy with Currie overall, but as always there is room for improvement.

I ran my Jeep a couple of weeks with no stabilizer to get the steering worked out, and they really are optional. Drives great now.

 

So you were not able to unscrew the ball joint? I was curious as to if replacing the ball joint ends when the time comes would be difficult. It looks like you need a huge socket for that as well..

 

Yea, could not unscrew it to flip it to the other side of the "end". Looking back on it maybe I needed to remove the ball joint from the front or something first. But I did go buy a 2" socket, 3/4" drive, lathed off the front lip of the socket and then used a 3/4" drive impact to try to remove with no luck. They advertise these things as rebuildable, but then if you can't get them apart, then what? Maybe rebuild instructions when you buy the $800 steering would be good. How about charging another $20 bucks and send a proper wrench too? Honestly I don't mind paying for quality parts but alittle info and proper tools (especially when they are special) should be included. jmo

 

WOW thats shocking. I have never had an issue.

 

Yeah for $800 bucks missing parts and no instructions was not what I expected. I didn't even know what torque specs I am supposed to use on everything.

Anyway did you ever figure how to get the ball out of the socket?

 

Yes ..... send it back to Currie!

 

 

I tried to use the tool for it.. the tool IMO is junk.. the metal the tool is made out of is way to soft to stand up to the torque needed to loosen the joint..I used part of the Jack handle as leverage, and also used a bfh on it and it only twists the tool where it contacts the points of the joint..
Use a big pipe wrench and put the bar in a vise.. that's what I did and with quite a bit of effort it came loose..
IMO don't waste the 10$ on the shotty tool...
Hope currie reads this thread.

 

So you just used a socket? What is the tool you are talking about?

 

I used a big pipe wrench..
U can use a socket but u need a 6 pt socket.. 36mm I think... I have one but Its 12 pt and it just slips off.

U can see the pipe wrench marks..


Well kinda..